Advice sought- sharp knives and sheaths

Joined
Sep 22, 2003
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Thanks to Warren's belt sander and little strop the AK bowie I picked up at Khonvention is wickedly sharp. :D However I am having a problem related to this.

The sheath is actually a little too tight at the mouth and the sharp blade has now cut about a 3/4" slit in the side of the sheath where the blade fits through. I guess before it was dull enough it didn't cut it.

Anybody got any ideas how to extend the sides of the sheath? If I wanted to try to fix it and recover it where is the best source of that thin type leather??

This is without a doubt the most axe like bowie I own! Excellent ergonomics!
 
I'm not using the scabbard for mine, I'm making my own. I traded mine with Trevor, and so I have this spare bowie sheath that he gave me (the one with the silver chape and you got the brass chaped one). Fits way too tight for my monster Sanu bowie with the deep fullers and thick spine.

Perhaps I couuld send it to you and you could see if it fits?

Keith
 
Ah...A great friendship forged in steel!
 
shoot me an email if yer interested, unless you desire to make your own or repair that one. You could try a thick leather collar addition above the frog, or line the sheathe mouth with kevlar:D

I know there is a source for kevlar gloves and sleeves (LE), maybe they would make a nice cut-proof liner!

kEITH
 
You could wet the leather and force it open more. Then quickly glue down a long strip of thick leather lacing....heck, maybe even a shoelace...where the blade touches the sheath. If there's enough room for it, it would help protect the sheath.

0.02
 
I've sometimes wondered about using a brass or copper
rivet/pin in critical areas of the sheath.

Another of 3-dozen projects on my list that may never be finished.

:rolleyes:
 
ddean said:
I've sometimes wondered about using a brass or copper
rivet/pin in critical areas of the sheath.

Another of 3-dozen projects on my list that may never be finished.:rolleyes:
Dean that's a great idea!!!! Methinks brass would be better for this simply because it's harder, but not so hard that it would dull an edge, that is a good hard edge. I'm not sure if it would dull the softer areas on a khuk blade or not.
The biggest problem I can foresee is getting a rivet to hold in the somewhat delicate sides of the khuk scabbard.
That is unless you have some ideas to overcome that????:)

Copper rivets may be best as far as the application goes though; because it is softer it would be easier to peen over on the delicate edges of the scabbards.

What are your thought's on this?
 
will not mar or dull even the softer parts of the khuk--in know from testing.

My AK bowie sheath will have copper pins and a special welt (or no welt at all) to protect the sheath from the knife, and to pretect the bearer from the knife if it is jarred or repeatedly moved in and out of the sheath.

You might also try affixing a collar (made from a strip of sheet brass or copper) around the throat of the sheath....Just under the frog, which might also help it stay in place...
Keith
 
hollowdweller said:
OK, so can somebody mention a source for the thin type leather that is used on the sheaths?
HD, depending on whether you're going to cover the entire scabbard or are just going for a repair will determine the thickness of the leather you need. If you're going for a repair a thicker leather would be better. When you wet it until it's very soft and pliable it will expand in size. Stretch it over the damaged area and sew it on with a good heavy and strong thread and the leather will shrink a bit when it dries.
 
Yvsa said:
The biggest problem I can foresee is getting a rivet to hold in the somewhat delicate sides of the khuk scabbard.

Copper rivets may be best as far as the application goes though; because it is softer
I think copper is hard enough if it is thick enough,
or otherwise there's enough of it.

Maybe........
Put it under the leather.
Use glue.
As you say, peen it.
Do a wire stitch down the side of the scabbard.
Just bend over the top & maybe bang it back in like a staple.
Probably several other ways if we get some inspiration
 
Look up "harness repair" or "harness rivets" on your search engine. Handy little suckers in various diameters and lengths...especially if you have old sheaths that you keep in service.

Some are split at one end, so you just spread them out to grip the leather, others are hollow. They are copper colored.

Kis
 
get "calf leather"...it's softer and thinner than regular rawhide but still quite tough. Just don't get deerskin....
 
pendentive said:
get "calf leather"...it's softer and thinner than regular rawhide but still quite tough. Just don't get deerskin....

Thanks Pen. That's what I was seeking. I notice on the Tandy site they have what they call upholstry leather. Is that the same thing?
 
upholstery leather is too fine and you won't be able to wetform it.

you want something in the 3-6 oz range.
 
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