advice, suggestions needed: kiln/HT options

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Mar 7, 2000
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Hello all. For the past few years I've been sending my stuff out for heat treat. I now want to start playing with differential hardening, ie., hamon lines. I originally was going to build a propane or charcoal forge but it looks like I will be moving into a neighborhood that may frown upon this sort of thing- and I don't really want to mess with fire in my shop.

I am strongly considering the Sugar Creek Kiln, but am wondering if the little analog gauge is adequate.

I plan on sending away my "high tech" steel (folder blades) to Paul Bos or D. Holder because I don't want to have to mess with liquid nitrogen and such.

Sooo, my question: a lot of people are using torches for spring steels, so I wouldn't think that hyper-accuracy is needed for these steel; wouldn't the Sugar Creek be fine for my purposes?

I've talked to others who think I'd be dumb to not to go with an Evenheat or Paragon, because I could do the ATS-34 that I'm am going to be using on my folders. But I feel like I only want to mess with HTing my big tool steel fighters, where the steel isn't as complicated and finicky (plus the LN scares me!:)).

Input? Opinions? Thanks!!
 
You would be much happier saving for a computer controled oven in the long run. If you ever want to mess with fancier steel, its a must.
 
Can you get the ramp master control on the knife ovens? I am sure you can..just asking.

Also, if I mainly make knives that will fit in a 13.5" oven but buy the larger 18" version, will it be more trouble to heat smaller stuff in it? I dont think 4.5" more would make a big difference in the amount of extra power needed....am I just being paranoid? :p
 
If you're good with electrical you can make your own. The electrician who walked me through wiring the motor for my grinder emailed me a tutorial. Doesn't look too bad as far as the construction of it, but the electrical would kill me (need a temp gauge and the controller itself). Anyway, if you want the tutorial drop me an email. I have it as a zip file and I think it came from British Blades, originally. Seems to me if you're going to buy one, the extra couple hundred dollars to get the programmable computer control is money well spent. Sell one more knife and there's your extra $$! :D
 
For stainless, programmability allows one to set the hold time and then ramp up to autenitizing temps. No biggie, really, it only allows you to save turning the dial once is all.

Where it does come in handy, though, is to set annealing ramps. Program it to ramp up fast, hold an hour, then drop the temp 50F/hour for long periods of time then shut off. It is much more of a PITA to have to attend it manually to do that.

The accuracy should be the same if it's a decent analog controller and digital doesn't preclude the necessity of periodic thrermocouple replacement.

My personal opinion, if you're not going to be doing annealing, save the money, put the savings toward an external thermocouple/meter and make sure the temp matches with the furnace pyrometer. I learned the hard way one cannot trust the internal thermocouple forever. They lose accuracy and you never know it for certain until your knives don't perform because they've been under- or overheated. To paraphrase an old woodworking saying: "measure twice, quench once".
 
blgoode said:
Can you get the ramp master control on the knife ovens?
Also, if I mainly make knives that will fit in a 13.5" oven but buy the larger 18" version, will it be more trouble to heat smaller stuff in it? I dont think 4.5" more would make a big difference in the amount of extra power needed....am I just being paranoid? :p
You should be able to get a wall mounted unit to fit any kiln . I have a paragon 50 amp controller for my old manual clay kiln. The controller cost me $575. Look up the Paragon TNF 2. . The best price isnt through paragon either. I deal with a company called Axner. They sell paragon controllers.

In my experience a larger kiln with less material in it heats faster than a smaller kiln that is packed full, so what you are spending to run the larger kiln will be offset with shorter firing times. (less surface area per cubic foot being heated) :)
Pat
 
I hadnt even thought of it that way Pat! Nice.....
Now I need the cashola :confused:
Better save some pennies!
 
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