advice wanted for new project...

Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
9
not just a new one, but my first as well.

I have a hunting buddy who has been overly generous to me and I want to repay him. I posted once a long time ago about this and am finally getting to the point that i can devote the time to actually doing his knife. Since then, some new kits have come along and I want some opinions.

SV30 is pretty hard to come by in a pre-ground kit. I think i'm going to stick with AUS8 - provided the steel from KnifeKits.com is acceptable for a user. this knife will likely see the insides of 10+ deer a year, as well as coyote, fox and a bear or 2. He fishes alot too, and my goal is to have his EDC be the knife I make for him.

That said, I think i'm going to go with the Delta5 Drop point for this project. I have two choices for wood - he helped me with a forest of cherry trees in my back yard a couple years ago and I have some stellar looking cherry from them, as well as - and i'm not sure about this wood - some really knurled juniper from a root I dug up last year and have dried completely. the grain in the juniper is beautiful and the wood is pretty hard. I think it would be a good candidate for epoxy stabilisation.

obviously, the wood chosen will dictate the final finish, so here goes.

If i go with the juniper and do some home-brew stabilization with a vacuum pump and some thin boatmakers epoxy, the stabilized wood needs very little in the way of finishing - i can simply cut to rough shape, assemble the knife and using JB Weld to adhere all parts to the blank, then final sand and polish the whole thing at once, right?

The cherry is a whole different story...assemble, and possibly using a CA finish or carnuba...either is end user repairable - what would YOU use?

I also have a nice wood shop up the road with some more exotic woods, but this stuff is near and dear to both of us...it represents some time spent getting our collective butts kicked by mother nature.

He's a Marine as well, so i intend on incorporating a small medallion of the marine Eagle/globe into the handle and covering with clear acrylic or CA...will this hold up? http://www.militaryclothing.com/IBS/SimpleCat/Product/asp/hierarchy/0K0G/product-id/534036.html

Do you peen pins that go into wood? Lightly? Just glue them? the pins on the bolsters (likely will only have front bolsters...) get peened AND glued with JB Weld?

I'm a bit overwhelmed...i have been reading for a week now and soaking everything in, but i just wanna make a knife dammit LOL
 
Hi Jay,

I think this isn't the right forum for your query. I'd address this to the Shop Talk - Bladesmith's Forum for better input.

Good luck on this. I'm sure you will enjoy the process and your buddy will be ever-thankful.

Coop
 
Are you sure JB Weld would be the best choice of bonding agent to hold the handle scales and bolsters onto the blade? I would be a little concerned that it may be a bit too thick(and set up a little fast) to get a good fit between both surfaces. You may have better luck using a two-part epoxy slightly warmed after mixing to make it a little thinner. It'll hold up much stronger than JB Weld and allow you to get a pretty snug fit. Also, if you counter-sink the pin holes in your handle materials and bolsters slightly, when you peen the ends if the pins, it will turn them into rivets holding the materials on. Between the epoxy and the rivets, it'll be nearly impossible to get them apart. That being said, I agree with Coop that this is a thread much better suited to the Shop Talk forum. You'll probably get advice over there from guys who have been at this a lot longer than myself. Either way, I hope it's useful. Best of luck my friend!
 
Jay4

Please fill out your profile and let us know where you live. I would probably go with the Juniper. If you have a tank and can do your stabilization effectively. If not spend the $$ and get it done professionally. It will hold up much better and you will not be sorry. for the handle, you do not really need to peen the pins if you have a good fit and rough them up a bit so the epoxy will hold well. For the bolsters use a countersink and the same pin material as the bolster. Peen this heavily into place and if done right you will not be able to see the pins. If you do not have it yet, get Wayne Goddards Book the $50 knife shop it is explained in there. As far as epoxy is concerned I use Acraglass for the most part. You can color it brown or black to either blend in or contrast or leave it natural. AUS 8 is a good steel and will serve you well. If you inset a USMC emblem either just epoxy it in place with no cover coat or a clear epoxy cover. You can get optically clear epoxy that will work much better than CA.

PS filling out your profile might get you a shop invite and an offer to help.
 
great input - and after i get the kit i'll start posting build and specific questions. hoping to slice open the juniper this week and get a good look at the grain inside. I think it may be the way to go - the cherry looks good, but it will soak up ALOT of glue to stabilize.

Thanks so much for the input gents. next post will be in a more appropriate forum, and my profile will be fixed shortly. thanks for being patient with the newbie :)
 
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