Advice

zach2556

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Jul 20, 2009
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I need to know the best way to learn to sharpen knives with a regular stone (no systems) I have a lansky sharpening set which I like, but I want to learn to sharpen free hand. And I need a reccomendation for a regular stone (big one). I want a pretty large stone that is coarse on one side and fine on the other so I would like it if somone could recommend somthing for me thats not too expensive.

Thanks!!


-Zach
 
Zach,A good quality 2 grit stone thats easy on the wallet is a Norton India 2X8" stone,coarse and fine.(25$ delievered) Then get a piece of leather somewhere for a strop. The diamond stones are expensive.DM
 
Zach,A good quality 2 grit stone thats easy on the wallet is a Norton India 2X8" stone,coarse and fine.(25$ delievered) Then get a piece of leather somewhere for a strop. The diamond stones are expensive.DM

What do you mean strop? How would I use it :S I don't know alot about this kind of stuff, and I have a little diamond stone double side fine/coarse sharpener but I'm looking for a bigger one and a regular wet stone that you put in water before use.
 
DMT benchstones and the DMT aligner tool. The tool will help you to learn proper movements for freehand and the DMT stones are some of the best.
 
First, how to learn to sharpen. I like these two web resources from:

Chad Ward at egullet
and
Steve Bottorff

I like Chad's a little better than Steve's, though Chad's is a LOT longer.

For stones, I personally don't think there's a good combination stone out there, as it seems like either the "coarse" isn't coarse enough, or the "fine" isn't fine enough. I hear good things about the DMT coarse/fine stone, but I haven't personally used it.

I've really come to appreciate the medium Crystolon (Silicon Carbide) stone from Norton. My stone is a combo with medium Crystolon on one side and fine india (Aluminum Oxide) on the other side. I find the fine india to be essentially useless for me, so I just ignore it.

A medium Crystolon would be a good place to start for the coarse side of things. I've become a huge fan of the Spyderco medium ceramic (gray) over the past few years. You can get a rather fine edge on a blade with one, and it happens pretty quickly. I've been using their "profile" sharpener. It's hand held, but it's 8" long, so you can use it as a bench stone too, as long as you elevate it, and put something under it so it doesn't slide around.

More info here. You can find it for more like $28 to $30 plus shipping at various online stores. If I had it to do over again, I might opt for the spyderco medium bench stone instead as it's the same material, but it's 2" x 8", so it's got more flat surface area to work with and *might* be better to use.

Technique is the most important thing though. All the stones in the world won't help you if you don't have the basics down.

Oh and your question about strops: A strop is traditionally a piece of leather that you run the blade over to micro align and micro polish it. Like barbers do with straight razors. You can use almost any piece of leather as a strop. Cardboard works too. A "loaded strop" is one that's been rubbed with some kind of (very mildly) abrasive compound. Chromium Oxide is the most common. I've got some CrO on piece of cardboard that I cut from the flap of a box. The CrO (green buffing compound) was $2 at Northern Tool. The cardboard was essentially free. It works quite well actually. I'm planning on building a strop with a piece of leather, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

Good luck on your quest.

Brian.
 
If you're going to freehand, spend a few extra dollars and start out with a 1K Shapton Glass Stone. Shaptons are the standard by which other stones are judged. It will give you a good edge all by itself.

If you really get bugged on it, you can then add other glass stones all the way up to 30K. The 15K is more than adequate for razors.

The higher grits get a little pricey, but you add them to your collection one at a time.

Good luck! :thumbup::p
 
Try marking the edge with a black Sharpie. This will make it easier to see where you are taking off material and to keep the edge angle symmetrical. --KV
 
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