advise, axe re-handle

You don't have to cut the handle prior to attaching the head. What I do is get the head on and then cut off the excess handle above the head.
 
I personally do it the same way as the guy from that manual - my reason being that it actually saves you from having to do more rasping than is needed and also allows you to drive the wedge in farther into the handle to give it more outward pressure where it's actually needed.
 
Exactly. Trust the old timer. He knows what he is talking about. And then also heed his advice when he tells you not to put the metal wedge in there as well. Bad move.
 
Operator1975 said:
Exactly. Trust the old timer. He knows what he is talking about. And then also heed his advice when he tells you not to put the metal wedge in there as well. Bad move.
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I'd say that this is the only real aspect of axe-hanging that I'm torn on... I know the logic behind the driving in the metal wedge (that is to add further pressure as well as a wedging effect perpendicular to the direction of the axe since the wooden one mostly applies it parallel) but not so much the logic behind NOT putting it in... the only postive I've heard is that it doesn't split the grain, but in my experience, the extent of this is minimal and the adverse effects miniscule. It also is contrary to the practices of just about about every prominent axe manufacturer I know of including the top-of-the-line ones like GB, Wetterlings, and Council Tool

Admittedly, I'm all of 20 years young so I can't say I've had any one axe long enough to note the pros/cons from experience. That said, could you shed some further light on the matter? :confused:
 
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I have used metal wedges in the past to really snug things up. The last axe, a Norlund, I used them because when I pounded in the wooden wedge it started to break and fan out on me. I have never had one split apart like that. The wooden wedge was a greenish wood and very light weight. I am careful to hit square on the wedge. I pounded in the pieces and placed a couple of metal wedges in it because I wasn't going to try and get the head back off. The Norlund tomahawk shape can loosen up due to it's shape.
 
I've seen those metal cross wedges driven in every kind of wooden handle imaginable, and have never seen a single one split because of that little metal wedge! I use them in all my hammer, maul, sledge, axe, hatchet, and claw and ball pein hammers and have never split one. Matter of fact I have never broken a handle from using a tool properly, most of the time it is from an over strike on the handle!
 
I think the wedges are a good thing as well. If your blade gets stuck and you pry up or down on the handle... that's what they do, expand the eye wood to resist those forces
 
If you fit the handle properly, the metal wedge should not cause any splitting. This is the only place where I have seen anyone say that they don't think the metal wedge should be used. In Handtools for Trail Work, also put out by the USDA, they tell you to use the wedge. Go figure. A metal wedge of some sort has been used by axe manufacturers for a very, very long time, and I've never seen any problem with it, except for when it was used on a handle that was not properly fitted.

http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
I even saw one video where the guy suggests some glue on the wooden wedge, and then put in the metal wedge(s). The double bit head I have is old, from the 60's I'm told. The handle I purchased is too large for the eye. I've been filing it down. It was a $10 hickory handle, with a polyurethane coating. I might just try to find a better fitting handle, save myself some work. I'm not against working a handle, but I don't really care for the amount of color in the grain, and the feel of it's shape.

What opinions of grain do you guys have? A recommendation of the direction, or grain color, or even brand would be nice. I have read about the grain direction and viewed some pics, and I was told to find the whitest handle, meaning no color in the grain. Any info on that? Thanks for everyone's input so far. I really want to save this axe head and put on a long lasting handle.
 
FOXX

The last head I rehafted took me a week of off and on trimming, fitting, removing the head, timming and sanding some more! Take your time, do it rite, and you will never miss the time you put into the job! If you know someone who has a bench or belt sander it will make it go much faster, but be warned, it's very very easy to "over do it" with power tools! This is especially true for a first timer! This is no law against using a sharp pocket knife to do some of the heavier work as well. BTW I also don't trim the excess untill I have the head on the shoulder where I want it. The longer end helps guide the head and keep it going on straight as you fitt it deeper onto the handle.

I have read that there where studies done on hickory heart wood vs sap wood (dark vs light) and there where no differences in stringth. I find that removing that varnish, sanding the handle and oiling the wood properly will lead to a tougher handle, not to mention allowing one to modify it to their taste as well (like thining).

Good luck, take your time, and you will make yourself proud!:)
 
For good handles, check out the ones I managed to pick up in this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/threads/832242-Finally!-Good-quality-handles!

Also, in response to your question, the wood color doesn't matter. The bias against heartwood was from back in the days of handles being made of old growth - now that handles are predominantly made of secondary growth, there is nearly no difference between sapwood and heartwood as far as handle integrity is concerned. What you really want is proper grain orientation,no knots/defects and (obviously) something that allows for a comfortable grip and swing (which tends to require some modification). Buuuut - single-colored handles are more aesthetically pleasing and most handles that have proper grain orientation and are defect-free tend to be AAW grade (all white) anyways, so it really doesn't matter.


United States Forest Service said:
". . .nor is the sapwood of hickory intrinsically stronger than the heartwood, as is sometimes claimed in connection with handle stock."
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http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fpltn/fpltn-189-1936.pdf


U.S Department of Agriculture Forest Service said:
"Over the years a prejudice has developed against the heartwood of hickory. Red hickory (heartwood) is often placed in a lower grade than white hickory (sapwood) simply because of its color. Tests by the Forest Products Laboratory have shown conclusively that red, white, and mixed red-and-white hickory have the same strength characteristics, regardless of color. The negative attitude toward red hickory developed during the days of virgin hickory stands. Under virgin-stand conditions the heartwood was often less dense and not as strong as the sapwood. In the second-growth stands of today this density difference does not exist, and specifications and utilization practices should be adjusted to take this fact into account."
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Source: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/amwood/241hicko.pdf
 
foxx said:
I even saw one video where the guy suggests some glue on the wooden wedge, and then put in the metal wedge(s). The double bit head I have is old, from the 60's I'm told. The handle I purchased is too large for the eye. I've been filing it down. It was a $10 hickory handle, with a polyurethane coating. I might just try to find a better fitting handle, save myself some work. I'm not against working a handle, but I don't really care for the amount of color in the grain, and the feel of it's shape.

What opinions of grain do you guys have? A recommendation of the direction, or grain color, or even brand would be nice. I have read about the grain direction and viewed some pics, and I was told to find the whitest handle, meaning no color in the grain. Any info on that? Thanks for everyone's input so far. I really want to save this axe head and put on a long lasting handle.
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I have used some Elmers Glue on the wooden wedge in the past. If anything, it may help to slick it up some to slide in deeper. I can't prove that. I'll never be able to get that wedge out again anyway.
 
One potential argument in favor of not using a metal wedge is the ability to further tighten your wood wedge if the ambient relative humidity decreases causing your initial hang to loosen up. I guess you can kind of do it if there's a metal wedge in there but it's easier if it's just a wood one to knock it in deeper. A fellow I know who's been in the trails business for a couple decades doesn't use a metal wedge but takes some fiberglass resin and coats the wedge in it and then puts a layer over the top of the eye to keep it from drying out and loosening, but that has the same effect as a metal wedge on your ability to adjust it or to pull out the original and insert a new one if needed. It's really probably only an issue if you anticipate having the same handle in your axe for many years.

It also matters how big the metal wedge is. Some places give you something as big as a quarter and 4 times as wide, others a more reasonable one. If I use a metal wedge I'll sometimes cut off the top section with a hacksaw, so it's not penetrating so deep, and less likely to cause a split in the handle, which I have seen happen, though often it's compounded by poor quality handle stock. Of course you want to put it in at the right angle too, if you mess that up you also run the risk of cracking your handle..

If you can get your hands on the rasps that farrier's use on horse feet, I've found them a lot nicer to use than a traditional wood rasp.

Good luck. It's always a learning experience.
 
I now have a double bit axe. It did take a while, I thought it would be easy. I got lots of great advice from you guys, thanks. It also helped to watch some Youtube videos and hear some detailed perspectives.
I had to keep putting on the axe head, file or shave off the high marks, and repeat. It did take a while, one instruction guide had the bottom of the head (shoulder) all the way down to where the handle is it's widest. This way, he had over an inch to cut off, sticking out from the top.
My eye was too small, and plenty of axes don't have the head down that far. So, I went down till I had 3/16" sticking up from the top of the eye.
I put a small amount of wood glue on the wedge, and took my time to hammer it in. It was pretty tight, and not only split up a bit, but the top edges rolled over a little. Then I used two small metal wedges to add some pressure in the other direction. I find the fit to be better, in this case, the small space in the corners was now filled.
I sanded the handle down, have applied 3 coats of boiled linseed oil, and some to the top eye. It's setting out in the building tonight, but tomorrow I'l go try it out. I'm pretty proud of it, but wish I had gotten a "better" handle. I just know those Tennessee hickory handles are great.
Maybe I'll get pics up tomorrow, or it didn't happen, right! I'll only take pics if it survives, or I mean if I survive the test.
 
Good job! Sometimes it does take a while to get a good fit, but it sure it satisfying when you finish :thumbup:
 
I sometimes have to recut the slot for the wedge because the head fits so far down on the shoulder. I like to set things as far down as I can go.
 
I did not get my axe head to fit down that far. The head has a small eye, I was going to have to get rid of lots of wood to make that happen. I used the axe, just yesterday. I saw no movement from the head, it's a tight fit. I only spent $10 on the handle and $8 on boiled Linseed oil.
I may try to find a Tennessee hickory handle for it in the future. Mostly, I don't need this axe, it's my Stepfather's, it was laying on the shop floor. He said it belonged to his father, and it's from the 60's.
Now, it's somewhat rescued from being thrown out as scrap metal.
 
Another project well done. I like to salvage those old axes. Sounds like you did well. You won't have to buy linseed oil for a long time. The next axe, and there will be one, will be cheaper to do.
 
I myself dont like the metal wedges. I have had probably 2 or 3 handles split from then. I would rather just use the wood wedge and some expoxy/glue/etc. If you do it right, you dont need the metal wedge. The last handle I had issue with was one I got for free off of a guy, he said he got it from Home Depot, and it was crap, but I used it anyway, and sometimes, you get exactly what you pay for(or in my case, free). I would just use some caution when using the metal wedges.
 
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