bh49,
Thanks for the compliment. (It looks like black Micarta is not too popular. However, the customer wanted something that wouldn't clash with their black handled factor kitchen knives.)
Since you asked, I came to use the
AEB-L in kind of a roundabout way. Where I currently work, I have access to an Evenheat Knife Oven, Liquid Nitrogen, and a Rockwell Hardness Tester, which finally gave me a chance to experiment with various stainless steels to make some knives and straight razors. In the process, I tried to tailor the steels to the blades I was making. For example, I made a couple of fishing knives out of
LC 200N, and some outdoors type knives out of
CPM 154CM,
S35VN, and
Elmax. I also made some of kitchen knives for my wife. From the cutoffs of the other knives, I made straight razors out of CPM 154, S35VN, and Elmax.
Then I started reading about
AEB-L and 13C26, two razor blade steels, from Uddeholm and Sandvik, respectively. I
read that these steels are designed to be stainless, be ground thin, and hold a keen edge. In contrast, I began to read how the other steels I had been using had large carbides that made them ill-suited to taking a thin, keen edge, like on a razor.
I decided that I would try to make some razors out of AEB-L, which turns out to be much less expensive than the other steels I was using. The only problem was that the thickest pieces I could find where only .130 inches thick. I generally use .250 inch steel as the basis for my straight razors, but I thought, no problem, Ill just forge weld two .130 inch pieces together. I got some AEB-L from
the Baron before doing more research. I know how to forge weld stainless steel, but I have no idea how to anneal it afterwards. I just assumed that information would be readily available. Unfortunately, it is not. AEB-L is not even mentioned in my copy of the Heat Treaters Guide, and I couldnt find the info on line either.
Since I wasnt going to be able to make the razors I wanted, I decide that the next best thing was to make some kitchen knives out of my .130 inch thick AEB-L. And thats what Ive done. So far, Im pretty happy with the AEB-L. The only problem I ran into was when I made some blades out of thinner pieces. Even though I plate quench, some of the blades warped. I then learned that Uddeholm rolls up the strips of AEB-L to stick it in their annealing ovens. Even after it is later rolled flat, it still remembers that roll. Apparently, the solution is to bend it back the other way, once you determine which way it wants to curve. I havent gotten around to trying that yet.
In any case bh49, thats my long winded answer to your question.
I notice from your post that you are also trapped in the Peoples Republic of Connecticut. I dont know where you are located, but Mace Vitale of
Laurel Rock Forge usually has one or two hammer-ins a year in
Guilford, CT. If you get a chance to go, they are always a good time.
