AFCK rebuild

L

longbow

Joined
Jan 9, 1999
Messages
4,350
Happy Holidays all. I am thinking of rebuilding my AFCK. This is the model when they first started tapping the screws all the way through. The blade is little long in the tooth but not bad really. Just starting to get a little bit of recurve to it towards the ricasso area. I will say this it is without a doubt the sharpest BM I have ever owned bar none. SO I guess I will leave the blade as is. That and they won't send anything to you through the mail. I want to do this rebuild myself with just washers etc. Far as I can tell that is the only thing I think it needs.

The lock up of the liner is starting to hit just past center on the knife and the pivot adjustment is nearly bottomed out. I am assuming that you don't replace the pivot screw or the female stud itself just cause it doesn't get that much wear on it. So I am thinking the washers are probably just worn from opening and closing etc. I would also like to scallop out on the left scale a small area to better disengage the liner lock. Anyone ever do this? Has anyone ever rebuilt there own AFCK? As usual any and help is appreciated. Keep'em sharp
 
It sounds like you do need new washers. The nylon/nylatron washers will flatten out over time and that is probably what is causing the pivot screw to bottom out. The scallop on the scale is easy. I just mark out the shape of the scallop, usually with a very sharp awl, then I start to work with a Dremel tool. I use a fine sanding drum. I start from the edge and work toward the outline I etched. Take your time and make small moves, especially when you get to the outline. The first one I did, took about an hour, now it's about 15 minutes.

I have also found that adding scale screws to the handle makes the action much nicer, the handle much stiffer and helps to keep not only the blade centered, but has also brought the lock back to engaging the tang at center or even left.
 
Thanks Dirk.., good suggestions!


"Hunters seek what they [WANT].., Seekers hunt what they [NEED]"
 
Thanks for the info Dirk. It is appreciated. What are scale screws? I won't be using a dremel as I don't have one so it will be a rat tail file for me. I am used to using one when I cut in string nocks on some of my bows. This knife is smooth too. Unreal action on it. Talk about sharp. Without a doubt the best sharpness I have been able to get on a BM by far. Rivals my S2K. I haven't been carrying it in some time but put the 550 in the drawer and this is now in my pocket. Do you think a hardware store would have these types of washers? Anyways thanks and keep'em sharp
 
Scale screws - The way AFCK's are put together, they utilize a the screws holding the back spacer to also hold the scales on the knife. This is very economical and really not a bad way to do it. The problem is that the scales don't offer as much help supporting the knife as they could. To do this, all you would do is find the approx. center line of the handle and drill two holes through the scale and liner along that center line. Tap the scale for a 2/56 screw, counter sink the hole in the scale so the screw will fit flush. Cut or grind the screws to proper length, don't want them to rub the blade. Then tighten them down. This will make the liner and scale act as a piece of ply wood. The handle become much stronger an stiffer. I have found I can tighten the pivot screw down almost completely and still have a very smooth, easy opening blade.

You can do the scallop on the scale with a file almost as easy. I have found a half round file works much better than the rat tail. You still approach the process as you would with the dremel. It will be a little slower, that's all.
 
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