Newbie to the knife community here. I've really enjoyed starting a collection over the last couple months (currently own PM2, Kershaw Leek, Schrade 603Ti D2, CRKT Razel, and Cold Steel Tuff Lite) and am excited about learning as much as I can here on blade forums. I would like to get a sharpening system soon. Any affordable ideas for an unskilled sharpener like myself to learn on? Any and all ideas are apppreciated!
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Affordable Sharpening
- Thread starter dgarn13
- Start date
Just posted a thread a few days ago in the Maintenance section. Short of it was there are a bunch of good systems, like Edge Pro, Wicked Edge, and some lesser known ones (at least to me) like the Hapstone models. Each has a different pro / con / consideration compared to the others. Wicked Edge seems the most "complete" but closed off and expensive system, Edge Pro is more open but can be harder to use, and Hapstone (new R1 coming out) seems easier to use than the Edge Pro but difficult to purchase or find. Might be worth it to do some reading on each and see which fits you the best.
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The Worksharp Guided system is a versatile unit that is around $50. There is an optional upgrade unit for around $40. Mine works great! The only downside...put tape on the blade should you use the guides so your blade is not scratched up. You can even free hand with this unit. It’s very packable, if needed. It works well with blades up to 6-7”.
I also have every sharpening system from the Worksharp electric powered system through the Wicked Edge and Dmt stones.
I also have every sharpening system from the Worksharp electric powered system through the Wicked Edge and Dmt stones.
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I'm thinking a newbie would want to start with something a little simpler/less expensive, then work his way up to the "big boys".
I'm just starting out myself and have tried a few things (freehand, workshop guided system as mentioned, edgecraft power sharpener (I know, I know), and the ubiquitous hand-held carbide/ceramic sharpeners (again, I know). Mixed results with all these. I just bought a Lansky system and am looking forward to using it- seems simple enough.
Carboniferous
Basic Member
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The Lansky system/Spyderco Sharpmaker work quite well if your knife has an edge of the appropriate geometry. I find that, for production folders <$70, it's actually a bit rare to get a knife sharpened properly from the factory such that both sides are <20 degrees and the edge itself is <40 inclusive. One side is often ground much more shallow than the other, or the edge is just too obtuse in general (for at least some section of the blade).
Another issue is that many production knives don't even come with a proper edge regardless of the angle. If you need to establish an edge, or change edge geometry much at all, Lansky/Sharpmaker will be quite slow. Once you actually have a viable edge to maintain, they'll work.
I'd suggest that, regardless of what you decide on, you should drop $10 on a coarse stone of some kind. Honestly doesn't matter what it's made of or what grit it is as long as it's 600 or coarser. Take a crappy kitchen knife (or buy a crappy kitchen knife from a thrift shop for $1) and practice on the coarse stone until you can establish an edge along the entire length of the blade reliably. You should be able to get a knife shaving sharp even on a rather coarse stone once you get the hang of it, and once you DO get the hang of it you can buy some more stones and start sharpening quality knives.
Jigs are great, but they're limiting. In the long run it's always good to be able to free hand sharpen.
Another issue is that many production knives don't even come with a proper edge regardless of the angle. If you need to establish an edge, or change edge geometry much at all, Lansky/Sharpmaker will be quite slow. Once you actually have a viable edge to maintain, they'll work.
I'd suggest that, regardless of what you decide on, you should drop $10 on a coarse stone of some kind. Honestly doesn't matter what it's made of or what grit it is as long as it's 600 or coarser. Take a crappy kitchen knife (or buy a crappy kitchen knife from a thrift shop for $1) and practice on the coarse stone until you can establish an edge along the entire length of the blade reliably. You should be able to get a knife shaving sharp even on a rather coarse stone once you get the hang of it, and once you DO get the hang of it you can buy some more stones and start sharpening quality knives.
Jigs are great, but they're limiting. In the long run it's always good to be able to free hand sharpen.
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Welcome to Bladeforums, dgam13. Here are a few threads that can help you with sharpening and choosing the right sharpening system. Do you want a guided system or do you want to spend some time learning to freehand ?
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/what-is-sharpening-a-knife-about-2015-updates.1014274/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/stropping-angle-plus-pressure.750008/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/microbevels.634739/
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- Jun 29, 1999
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An affordable alternative is to sharpen freehand. A set of good diamond hones will last for decades. An angle guide that clamps to the back of the blade works as well (or better) than the guided systems, IMHO.
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I agree completely. I got my first Lansky about 30 years ago when they first came out. Saw it in a hunting magazine. It has a learning curve, but it is a great deal and a very workable solution. I am a hand sharpener and always laughed at those that couldn't get their knives really sharp (OK, that's all of my amigos) by hand. As the steels go harder and my patience got shorter, I was looking for someway to get an edge on a knife and start using it right away. I wanted to spend my nights and weekends using my knives, not sharpening them. Although I love a good knife and always have, I am more of a "knife is a tool" kind of guy.
The key to success with the Lansky is three things: Get the base! Holding the setup in your hand while manipulating the stone/knife will not yield great results. Second, use all the grits when setting the edge and don't skip any of them. Once the edge is set and the knife just needs a tune up, then go to the next highest grit to start.
I found too, that buying one of their coarser stones separately was a good idea. Poor factory grinds can take forever to reset as you are actually grinding by hand. For most steels (not the M90s, S110V, etc.) the coarse stone will make short work of defining the bevel you want, then just work your way up the grits. Regardless of stone grit, keep the stones lubricates to clear the steel dust/cuttings from the pores of the stone. This will keep the surface clean and give much better sharpening results. Obviously you use diamond stones dry or with a few drops of water, so we are talking the standard Lansky kit with the ALOX stones.
My first Lansky kept me in beer and cigars for a long time getting my buddies and their knives in shape! I still use the Lansky as needed, and now with the "sapphire" stones you can even get a real mirror finish on your blade if that's your thing.
Robert
I have small sharpening stones that I use and strops. I got my DC4 sharpening stone with a knife I bought and bought a 3k and 10k combo stone for like $10 on Amazon lol. I use the DC4 mostly and then strop and I get hair popping edges with ease. Doesn’t take me long either, after I’ve set my edge and am just doing maintenance it takes about 2 min on the strop.
Thanks for the threads, interesting stuff there. I am open to try both but I wont be sharpening many at a time so a guided system may not be necessary. It seems most like the guided systems because of the convenience. If the quality of the sharpening is significantly improved with a guided system I wont hesitate to buy one. But if I can grind them down to equal quality by hand I'd certainly be interested in that
A guided system like the Spyderco is more than convenient to my tastes. At least for a newbie like myself. The hardest part about freehand sharpening to me is maintaining the angle. Not an issue with a guided system. And they are easy to set up and use. The first knife I sharpened, an inexpensive Buck 300 in 5 minutes came out super sharp.
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The sharpmaker is great, but I don't like it for reprofiling at all. I started with a sharpmaker, went to edge pro clones; then some other stuff(among them the worksharp which I don't recommend at all) and now I freehand and have a WE. IMO the wicked edge is the best system. But maybe some stones are the way too go.
I really like the 800/10k combination, because it's not that easy to really fuck something up at the start and if really needed you can get lower grits by taping sandpaper to a piece of wood or your stones. This would run you around 150$ I'd say.
I really like the 800/10k combination, because it's not that easy to really fuck something up at the start and if really needed you can get lower grits by taping sandpaper to a piece of wood or your stones. This would run you around 150$ I'd say.
If you want simple, fast, convenient, affordable sharpening: nothing comes close to freehand sharpening. Plus, you learn an old world skill, it's the most fun (ok, nobody jump me, I admit I'm biased on that one 
), and you can sharpen your knives anywhere.
Get a stone or two to start. Read the guidance here on BF that was given above, and watch videos by a few of the pros here (not me
) to learn and try which sharpening motion works for you. Start practicing on a few beater knives. It's not terribly hard to get to basic proficiency.
If I could give one suggestion: don't focus on buying gear. Focus on learning the skill. 1 or 2 stones. Practice.
), and you can sharpen your knives anywhere. Get a stone or two to start. Read the guidance here on BF that was given above, and watch videos by a few of the pros here (not me
) to learn and try which sharpening motion works for you. Start practicing on a few beater knives. It's not terribly hard to get to basic proficiency. If I could give one suggestion: don't focus on buying gear. Focus on learning the skill. 1 or 2 stones. Practice.
Even with guided systems, a few inexpensive bench and pocket stones/plates are good to have for their speed and versatility. Learn at your own pace and have the guided system to fall back on.
A few suggestions...
Bench stones/plates
The Norton jb8 $20
Eze-Lap 61F $23
Pocket/touch ups
Eze-Lap 36SF $14
or
Eze-Lap 200 $12
There's a lot more models, brands, types, sizes, etc. Some prefer DMT, water stones, interupted surfaces, etc. The above is just what I prefer, and is capable of everything from fast heavy stock removal and reshaping, to finishing and touch ups on any steel, for what I consider a very reasonable price (~$70 total). With proper and average use, everthing above should last decades.
A few suggestions...
Bench stones/plates
The Norton jb8 $20
Eze-Lap 61F $23
Pocket/touch ups
Eze-Lap 36SF $14
or
Eze-Lap 200 $12
There's a lot more models, brands, types, sizes, etc. Some prefer DMT, water stones, interupted surfaces, etc. The above is just what I prefer, and is capable of everything from fast heavy stock removal and reshaping, to finishing and touch ups on any steel, for what I consider a very reasonable price (~$70 total). With proper and average use, everthing above should last decades.
If you want simple, fast, convenient, affordable sharpening: nothing comes close to freehand sharpening. Plus, you learn an old world skill, it's the most fun (ok, nobody jump me, I admit I'm biased on that one
Get a stone or two to start. Read the guidance here on BF that was given above, and watch videos by a few of the pros here (not me
If I could give one suggestion: don't focus on buying gear. Focus on learning the skill. 1 or 2 stones. Practice.
Ok, I have been a member on this forum for a while, so I should already know this. Is it better or more effective in some way to sharpen freehand by pushing the edge of the blade toward the stone or pulling it away from the stone while sharpening?
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Hard to beat a good diamond plate for general sharpening. I like the DMT Coarse and if you need angle guidance the DMT Aligner is only about $10 and will give you a few angles to pick from. It allows you to free hand on a bench stone with an angle guide helping you along the way teaching you the hand movements for sharpening. Once you feel comfortable you can take off the training wheels and you will have the skills and knowledge to play with whatever stone or system you would like after that .
Most freehand sharpening--at least mine--is done with edge-leading strokes. There is a place for edge-trailing strokes or 'backhoning', but is usually used as an alternative to stropping, a way to refine and deburr your edge on the stones without needing to go to a strop.