Afghan Bound

G

Gib Guignard

Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
849
Will be on it's way as soon as I get a address.
Forged 5160 edge quenched then tempered and the spine drawn back for some insurance, blade is 8 1/2 " over all is 13 1/2". The clip is sharpened for
3 1/2+ fittings are brass with a brushed finish to cut glare, handle is black canvas Marketa finished on a 36G belt to give a slip proof grip when wet. I sure would not want anyone after me with this one it sure scares me. Gib

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Nice Gib. Did you hand sand the 36 grit?
I was thinking of sanding mine a little rougher but the sanding marks were UGLY. Any hints?
 
Gib, i like it :D i like the taper to the blade. How wide is the blade at the guard, looks like about an inch and a half? any fasteners on the sheath?

edit: Gib also how wide is the tang? I am making one with a 5/8" by 3/16" thru tang for a hidden tang with a screwed on end cap and wondering if you think it is big enough to hold up, the steel is 1080, 1" wide, 3/16" thick.
 
Gib that's cooler'n a moose, it's going to be the talk of the town when someone gets that! :cool: I think the 36G is a great idea, I'll make sure to provide some traction on my handle too. Way to go! You're going to make one fine soldier very happy.
 
Terry, the blade is about 2" wide at the guard, no fasteners on the sheath I just plain don't like them. Your tang is big enough, but what about the threaded portion of the pommel, In my opinion 1/4" is not enough. This knife has a 5/16" bolt and collar silver brazed to the tang and pommel. Make sure you make a VERY solid joint for the tang bolt. Gib
 
Gib, thanks, i am actually threading the end of the tang itself with 10/32 threads to screw into the endcap.
 
Mark - you hand sand that micarta? What did you do to get rid of the sanding marks?
 
Nice one Mark, I was a bit surprised the way thy go together. As far as finishing the handle I do the same for the knives at the butcher shop only with 60 grit but when I tried the grip before changing belts on this knife it felt just right so I quite.

Terry, in my book 10/32 bolt is too light on a rough service knife. Think of it this way, what happens if the user uses the pommel for a hammer? 5/16 is a whole lot better than 10/32. Just my way of doing things. Gib
 
Gib, if you use the 5/16 thread on a piece of 3/16" tang will it leave the sides flat with no threads? that was why i went with the 10/32 threads, it was pretty close to the 3/16" tang and gave threads all the way around, it will have about 1/4" worth of threads to screw into the endcap.
 
Terry, I install the guard first then the all thread so you don't need to grind it down.
But I grind a small flat on the side of it so I don't create a hydraulic lock, you need to have a place for the epoxy to go when you put it all together. I have had this happen and cause problems. I try to get 3/8 to 1/2" of threads to screw into the collar.
On heavy use knives I like to err on the side of tough. Gib
 
ahh, so you weld on the all thread? i dont have a welder, that is why i was rounding and threading the end of the tang itslef, do you think 5/16 thread would still work on the end of the tang if i ground it down to that size, i know it would leave flats on the sides with no thread, but would the threads on the spine side and edge sides be strong enough?
 
No I would not do that. I do not weld the all thread to the tang too tricky without one the of newer welders like a Tig or a Mig. I Silver Braze using a O/A torch. it is possible to use a propane torch just slower. This stuff flows some where around 1000deg.
Gib
 
Terry, I do it in a manner similar to Gib's. I used 10-32 for awhile, but found as Gib pointed out, that it was too light for rough service knives. I still use 10-32 stainless for through-tang, small hunters, but for large knives I use 5/16" or 3/8" NF. I use stainless when I can just to remove another rust possibility. The thread is brazed with 56% silver solder that melts at around 1,150 - 1,200 F. It makes a VERY strong joint.
 
Gib,
That baby sure looks like it would get the job done!
Some very good information on tang construction here as well, thanks.
Regards,
Greg
 
Hi all,

I am the lucky end user of Gib's fine work. I just thought I would post a quick note at Gib's encouragement.

I am new to this site but have posted some of my thoughts in another forum. It seems that some folks do have some questions of me that I can actually answer. The technical questions and discussions I've seen here are light years ahead of my knowledge base, but if something comes up that a user can address, I would be happy to entertain them. The biggest things that I've addressed to makers have been the term “TACTICAL” and how it is misapplied by many folks to equipment and how it applies on the specific missions that I have experience with. Lastly, the question of what a soldier needs and uses, in this case I can only speak from my personal experience.

If I can help at all, I would be proud too. Especially if it helps one of you with the talent and expertise make something that helps another soldier.

Thanks for taking the time to read this . . .

Jim
 
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