After failing to convex to sharpness stropping, I put a microbevel with a stone.

[fireincairo]

And it's pretty darn sharp, hair poppin' sharp. I spent a lot of time convexing this BK11 and it has a nice smooth transition and curve like a convex, but I was unable to get it sharp with stropping. So I took it and carefully put a microbevel at a really wide (~80 degrees) angle on a diamond stone and it's really sharp now.

So... maybe this isn't so bad? I mean, it has the breadth of a convex blade edge which has some benefits, and it's sharp which is better than the what I had: A Becker Butterknife.

Is this a method people actually use, or am I just hacking?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I went through this, when I started convexing on sandpaper (on my strop block). Edge never got as sharp as I expected. I've since figured out this is just a matter of refining my technique (hint: practice, practice, practice). To be more specific, it's very important to make sure you decrease your pressure, and maintain as low an angle as possible, as you go through each grit. On soft backing, it's all-too-easy to press a little too hard, or get the angle too steep, which will always result in a rounded edge. I've even flipped my strop block over, and used the hard backing for the sandpaper at the finishing grits (for me, that was 1000/2000). That helped me put a cleaner, sharper edge on it.

The way I look at it, the early convexing stages at coarse grit are mainly to shape the bevel as a whole. That's also where you'll initially form a burr at the edge. As the grit gets finer, more and more emphasis needs to be placed on the edge itself. For me, that means using lighter pressure, and utilizing a firmer backing helps a great bit, too.

Edit:
Per your original question, I don't know whether it's 'hacking' or not, but I did the exact same thing, using a diamond hone. And some manufacturers of convex blades do it also (deliberately). Sorta feels like 'cheating' the convex process, but if it works, who cares, right?

 

[HeavyHanded]

80 degrees inclusive? I don't think you'll be very happy with that edge for too long. I'd say don't give up on your convexing, but maybe find a knife or two that are easier to convex and get your technique down. Not enough attention is given to the topic of converting a knife over to a full convex edge, especially a thick-bladed one like your Becker. It ain't easy, but when finished you'll have a thick, durable blade that also slices with very little resistance compared to the previous V grind. In fact, it's on the thicker bladed knives (and hatchets) that convexing really distinguishes itself.

As above, low, low angle and light pressure (and a ton of patience). Before converting over my TOPS C.A.T. (5/32 thick at the spine) it couldn't slice an apple without blowing it into pieces. After fully convexing it, the same knife can slice down into a somewhat mealy apple and not have it break up. It does make a difference. End of the day, if you're happy with the results you've gotten that's all that matters.

HH