For cardboard, tape, string and food prep, all of these tasks will benefit largely from narrower edge geometry, and a highly refined or polished edge finish isn't quite as critical.
I shoot for 25° - 30° inclusive (12.5° - 15° per side) to set the edge. Then, the finish produced by the Fine (600) DMT will work very well for all, with minimal stropping. OR, for very light refinement beyond the DMT Fine, a medium or fine ceramic used very, very lightly to apply a barely perceptible microbevel (30° - 40° inclusive) also works very well, again with minimal stropping following that (I usually do so with a few passes on the sueded side of a bare leather belt).
Another option for food prep use is to set a very acute edge, such as around 25° inclusive or so, then use a hard-backed denim strop with a heavy application of white rouge (aluminum oxide) compound to convex & polish the shoulders of the edge grind. Keep the blade angle LOW to the strop, so all of the contact is behind the edge, working only the shoulders of the edge bevels. A thin, shallow & polished convex done this way works great for food prep use. This also works well for cardboard, with the polished convex making cutting very, very slick in cardboard. In general terms, the simplest overall solution for cardboard is a thin blade with fairly acute edge geometry - this is what makes box cutters work as well as they do. A thicker blade used for cardboard will benefit greatly from the polished convex, however. Example below, an older 2-dot Buck 112 in 440C - these older Buck blade grinds were pretty thick behind the edge. So, I narrowed the edge geometry and finished with the convexing & polishing as described above. This is the knife that really opened my eyes, in terms of learning how well that polished convex handles cardboard.
