- Joined
- Jun 22, 2003
- Messages
- 3,049
mic specs taken 2" forward from the end of the choil (where the edge begins)
1/16" - .051
1/8" - .074
1/4" - .091
3/8" - .126
1/2" - .157
5/8" - .176
3/4" - .197
7/8" - .202
1" --- .202
spine- .202
this next set is from the tip going along the spine towards the handle
1/16" - .065
1/8" - .079
1/4" - .100
3/8" - .131
1/2" - .156
5/8" - .180
3/4" - .191
7/8" - .200
1" --- .201
wich is odd. visually against a ruler it looks like 3/16 (3/16 = .187, 1/4" = .025, but when i mic it out its .202. when i hold the mic up to the ruler (at.202), it is quite visibly more then 3/16", so i guess its just a trick of the eye combined with the powder coat.
overal handle thickness =.927, making each slab .362 (making the slabs just under 3/8" thick each)
very solid blade. there was a comment made that it set a new standard of sharpness, wich i would contend, at least as far as knives are concerned. i could not comment on wether it is sharp in comparison to other wakasashi's. were it a knife, the edge itself wouldbe at a fairly obtuse angle, and the tip would be quite obtuse (as most of the larger busse's tend to come sharpness wise from my experience). on this blade, that may be required due to the excessive stress put on the edge by the extra length, again i cannot comment without experience in testing the difference that edge angles and geometry make in a wakasashi/katana.
the sheath is something i threw together the night before we left for reletives houses. i started at midnight, and we left at 4am, so it was a rush job meant basically only to wrap the edge for transport. ideally i'd rather have rivets at the junction points instead of bolts and nuts, or at least chicago bolts. i'd also rather the rivets be spaced in accordance to a large techlocks spacing (but i dont have one to measure them out with) as apposed to just randomly hand drilled.
not to hard of a sheath to make... kind of anoying to rivet though.
this wakasashi makes an intersting thrower/spear... not ideal, but certainly interesting.
lots and lots and lots of rivets...
1/16" - .051
1/8" - .074
1/4" - .091
3/8" - .126
1/2" - .157
5/8" - .176
3/4" - .197
7/8" - .202
1" --- .202
spine- .202
this next set is from the tip going along the spine towards the handle
1/16" - .065
1/8" - .079
1/4" - .100
3/8" - .131
1/2" - .156
5/8" - .180
3/4" - .191
7/8" - .200
1" --- .201
wich is odd. visually against a ruler it looks like 3/16 (3/16 = .187, 1/4" = .025, but when i mic it out its .202. when i hold the mic up to the ruler (at.202), it is quite visibly more then 3/16", so i guess its just a trick of the eye combined with the powder coat.
overal handle thickness =.927, making each slab .362 (making the slabs just under 3/8" thick each)
very solid blade. there was a comment made that it set a new standard of sharpness, wich i would contend, at least as far as knives are concerned. i could not comment on wether it is sharp in comparison to other wakasashi's. were it a knife, the edge itself wouldbe at a fairly obtuse angle, and the tip would be quite obtuse (as most of the larger busse's tend to come sharpness wise from my experience). on this blade, that may be required due to the excessive stress put on the edge by the extra length, again i cannot comment without experience in testing the difference that edge angles and geometry make in a wakasashi/katana.
the sheath is something i threw together the night before we left for reletives houses. i started at midnight, and we left at 4am, so it was a rush job meant basically only to wrap the edge for transport. ideally i'd rather have rivets at the junction points instead of bolts and nuts, or at least chicago bolts. i'd also rather the rivets be spaced in accordance to a large techlocks spacing (but i dont have one to measure them out with) as apposed to just randomly hand drilled.
not to hard of a sheath to make... kind of anoying to rivet though.
this wakasashi makes an intersting thrower/spear... not ideal, but certainly interesting.
lots and lots and lots of rivets...




