Alaskan Hunter 110 Arrived

Guyon

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Was pleased to see it on my front porch when I got home today.

My impressions: Good-looking knife all around. The Alaskan Guide logo is not nearly as obtrusive as I'd thought, and the rosewood is a beautiful complement to the darker coated blade. Mine opens a little stiff (stiff is ALWAYS better than loose), but no gritty feel. With a good flush and some Tuff-Glide, this one'll be ready to go. Not as sharp out-of-the-box as some of the 420HC blades I've gotten, but the S30V took a scary edge on the Sharpmaker. The knife is a 2004 model, and because it had been sitting up a while, there was considerable tarnish on a couple of the bolsters. Out came the Brasso (no 110 nut can live without a can of Brasso in the house), and now the bolsters gleam like bling on Mr. T. Fit and finish are excellent, and the blade locks up tight with no play.

I'm pleased with the purchase, and I plan to put this one to use as a back-up to a fixed blade when hiking and as a hunting knife. Kudos to Buck on another well-made product.
 
Did I read somewhere here that the Alaskan logo can be removed with a razor blade??? :confused:

Guyon said:
Out came the Brasso (no 110 nut can live without a can of Brasso in the house)...

I use Nevr-Dull wadding (the Marine's friend!). I did a 110 a few weeks ago, and then put a coat of car wax [Turtle Wax to be exact] on it, like someone suggested. It's been sitting here with no tarnish, while the other ones are turning into a pirates treasure...

Car wax...whoda thunk??? :eek:

Oh, yeah...[forgot what I wanted to say!]...Pictures!!! We want pictures!!! :D
 
I don't think i would take a razor blade to the logo on the Alaskan. What about that blade coating?

Congrats on the Alaskan Guyon...and the brasso is sitting here on the table next to me. Y'all get the small can. It lasts forever.

And Guyon, I will be more than happy to trade you a nice pretty new regular 110 black sheath for that ugly ole burgundy colored one that came with the Alaskan. :)
 
I read that post about the razor blade as well. It may have been in response to a thread I started, actually. Having seen the knife first hand, I don't really think removal is warranted. The Cabela's image makes the logo look a lot more prominent than it really is.
 
I rather like the emblem as well and identifies the knife for what it is, a Cabela's Alaskan Guide 110! :D It a great variation of the 110.
 
Guyon, I just received mine today. I had a standard 110 for years, but it has apparently decided to hide somewhere, so I ordered the Alaskan Guide version. I seems quite nice.

When you sharpened it, did you go through all the 4 steps on the Sharpmaker, or just use the fine stone? I have seen the instructions, but I have never used the sharpener. I'm a bit of a novice on sharpening. Is the out of the box angle on the knife suitable for "touch-up" or did it require more work?
 
LFH said:
I don't think i would take a razor blade to the logo on the Alaskan. What about that blade coating?

I doubt you could hurt the coating just scraping the logo off. The coating should be harder than the steel of the razor blade. My only concern would be if the outline logo was still visible after being scraped off.

I'm still debating over getting one. I don't like the logo, but I'm sure I could live with it. But what does it really matter if the knife is a user? It'll get scratched anyway.
 
Yno said:
Guyon, I just received mine today. I had a standard 110 for years, but it has apparently decided to hide somewhere, so I ordered the Alaskan Guide version. I seems quite nice.

When you sharpened it, did you go through all the 4 steps on the Sharpmaker, or just use the fine stone? I have seen the instructions, but I have never used the sharpener. I'm a bit of a novice on sharpening. Is the out of the box angle on the knife suitable for "touch-up" or did it require more work?
I just did a quick run through all 4 steps--probably 40 strokes total per step. It took a wicked edge quickly.
 
I will be on vacation next week, and when it is raining out, I will be going through a few knives to relax.

I'm leaning toward the Sharpmaker based on what I have read here. If I get into sharpening, I can pick up an Edge Pro later, but although some of my knives are not razor sharp, none need reprofiling.

There was a post on the forum about the guards on the Sharpmaker, and I will be sure to use them. I was sharpening a kitchen knife years ago on a ceramic stick sharpener, and missed the stick once. I cut right through the tendons on my left index finger. It didn't even hurt. The orthopedic surgeon said the knife must have been approaching scalpel sharpness.
 
Yno said:
There was a post on the forum about the guards on the Sharpmaker, and I will be sure to use them. I was sharpening a kitchen knife years ago on a ceramic stick sharpener, and missed the stick once. I cut right through the tendons on my left index finger. It didn't even hurt. The orthopedic surgeon said the knife must have been approaching scalpel sharpness.
Yep, takes all of 5 seconds to put them in, and they could save you a surgery bill and a lot of headaches.
 
Yno said:
I'm leaning toward the Sharpmaker based on what I have read here.

I used a Lansky jig set for sharpening for years and thought I'd found the ultimate sharpening system. The Lansky *is* a nice system, but I bought myself a Sharpmaker for Christmas last month and it has CHANGED MY LIFE. I not only was able to get scary edges on all my knives, I also sharpened up a couple of knives I thought were 'past their prime' (but didn't want to re-profile).

Just follow the instrustions on Sal's video and you'll be amazed at the results!
 
MG_Saldivar said:
I used a Lansky jig set for sharpening for years and thought I'd found the ultimate sharpening system. The Lansky *is* a nice system, but I bought myself a Sharpmaker for Christmas last month and it has CHANGED MY LIFE. I not only was able to get scary edges on all my knives, I also sharpened up a couple of knives I thought were 'past their prime' (but didn't want to re-profile).

Just follow the instrustions on Sal's video and you'll be amazed at the results!
Been thinking about getting the diamond rods for reprofiling. They're expensive, but I think they'd be handy for harder steels like D2 when I want to do some reprofiling work. Dealing with 1095, it took me a while this week to reprofile a Schrade fixed blade with the coarse rods.
 
MG_Saldivar said:
I used a Lansky jig set for sharpening for years and thought I'd found the ultimate sharpening system. The Lansky *is* a nice system, but I bought myself a Sharpmaker for Christmas last month and it has CHANGED MY LIFE. I not only was able to get scary edges on all my knives, I also sharpened up a couple of knives I thought were 'past their prime' (but didn't want to re-profile).

Just follow the instrustions on Sal's video and you'll be amazed at the results!
Your post just may be the one that convinces me to finally pick up a Sharpmaker and try it out. This sharpening by hand takes a long time and is fairly tedious. :jerkit:
 
We are making a trip to Cabela's this week. I think I will pick up another one of those 110's. I already have one, but it basically sits around looking pretty.
 
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