Aldo's 1095

RMLamey

RMLamey

Joined
Nov 13, 1998
Messages
2,598
Here is a big Cutter i just finished up from some of the 1095 Aldo is sellling. First off the steel is very clean, very little to no surface scaling, nice edges, no gouges/dings/scrapes etc. It forges very nicely under the hammer and is thick enough (3/8") to really get some drastic shape and width without sacraficing thickness. This particular blade is about 10.5" long x 2-3/8" wide. You could easily forge this stock down to 2.5". This steel has very good possibilities for drastic hamons, as any good 1095 should. These photos dont really show it but there is alot of activity in there.

Very clean, easy to work, very fine steel.

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Very nice Matt! Looks like the perfect steel for the next bowie project we were discussing. Any leads on tracking down bronze for guard and ferrule?

Ray
 
Fantastic knife where's mine? just kidding take your time. Seriously I love your work great piece
 
Thanks all, i hope to get some better pics of the hamon, the light was real bad when I took these photos and they are overexposed, washing out the hamon.

Joe, im working on your knife now, along with Dave, Joe R, Craig, a few for Les, and a LONG overdue piece for Randy M.
 
Looks great from her Matt. What handle material did you use? Is it a curly maple or a walnut?
 
WOW! That is one beautiful chopper! Great hamon. Love that wide recurve design.

Just seeing the pictures makes me want to go cut a trail somewhere!

What did you use to stain the wood?
 
Another of 'love to have' knife Matt :thumbup: It has a neat blade profile and ergonomics handle :thumbup:

Thanks for showing it Matt!
 
could someone tell me what "hamon" is, a little about the process to acheive, and the significance ? roland
 
rprocter said:
could someone tell me what "hamon" is, a little about the process to acheive, and the significance ? roland
Click to expand...

With a differentially hardened blade, the hamon is the visible transition zone between the harder steel of the cutting edge and the softer steel of spine (something desirable in a large knife that will see high-impact use). Sometimes clay is used to coat the spine area before the blade is quenched. Because of the insulating effect of the clay, this area will cool more slowly (and thus not harden as much) as the exposed cutting edge area.

You can also get the functional benefit of a differentially hardened blade by fully hardening it initially, then "drawing the spine" back to a spring temper using a torch.

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This may also produce a visible transition line - but it will be more of a "line" than the wavy / smoky / whispy ultra-cool active hamon that a clay-coated quench can produce.

For the very brave, you can also get spectacular results, hamon-wise, from a water quench, relying on the comparative thickness of the spine area for slower cooling than the thinner cutting edge. Of course, you can also get spectacular failures. :o

Roger
 
yep Roger those 2 are still on the line up as well.
Handle- Curly Maple, stain is a mix of red mahogany and walnut, still may darken it a bit. My favorite method to darken Curly Maple is using Chromic Trioxide, but I was out of it.
 
RogerP, thank you for explanation of hamon. i had checked various knife info. sources with glossaries, but for whatever reason, none had "hamon".
roland
 
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