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Alginate mold mix for making Casts ?

H

HARDBALL

Joined
May 6, 2001
Messages
930
Hi all,

I've never been an artisy kind of guy so this is new to me. If one wanted to make a copy of....say....an old vintage knife or Axe Head, etc. would Alginate be the best type of product for making a mold and then use a fast setting (perhaps Dental) plaster to fill the mold to make a cast ?

HARDBALL
 
I'm out of my element here but none of the axe or knife makers I've ever seen or heard about use molten metal to pour in moulds. Striking tools made from castings are not likely to be satisfactory for durability. Quality axe heads, for one, have malleable cheeks and poll and a specifically different steel (and also hardened) blade. No harm in experimenting though!
 
Hi 300Six,

Ahhhh....I should of explained better what I have in mind. I recently bought (what I am hoping) is an authentic 18th. Century Indian Trade Spike Tomahawk. I'm still researching to see if it is in fact authentic.
Regardless if this Tomahawk Head is an authentic 18th. Century Spike Hawk or a late 1800's ICE HATCHET (which I do NOT believe it is) this is one cool style Spike Hawk and I'm LOVING it! So, I was thinking of making Plaster Casting that I could send to a Blacksmith to have "repo's" of the Spike Hawk made using the plaster casts as an example so a Blacksmith can have the exact size/dimensions of original. I dunno, just a thought. Thanks 300Six.

Regards,
HARDBALL aka Tom
 
My guess would be that the blacksmith would be able to give you a better idea of how to make the best repro, might also want to ask an antiques dealer or one of those places that do cast cement statues what they would use. I would be more concerned about the effects of the plaster/ casting material on the head, staining or corrosion. Preserving such an item would be on the top of my list. Maybe look into vacuum forming an exact mold and making a cast off of that. Can we see any pictures of this spike hawk/ ice ax?
 
Hi Joe,

As soon as I can figure out how my new computer photo program/interface works, I'll post pixs. You bring up some good points about not wanting to hurt the (hopefully) authentic Spike Tom. As far as I know, this Alginate stuff is pretty tame. It's the same stuff Dentist use to make Mouth/Teeth impressions.....that Pink Jello looking stuff. I don't (think) it would hurt a rusty old Axe head. That being said, I will look into other methods to make a copy.

Joe, the following link/pix is (nearly identical looking) picture of a Historical Indian Trade Spike Tomahawk (found in NY State). Of course the one I own is rusty/pitted surface but otherwise, still solid! They both are also very close in weight. The Spike on mine however has a bit more of a graceful downward curve. http://furtradetomahawks.tripod.com/id6.html


The next link/pixs http://furtradetomahawks.tripod.com/id20.html (down towards the bottom of page) shows two Beatty & Son ICE HATCHETS.
I have to admit, these also look very much like my Spike Tomahawk as well. However, the Spike on mine is still more curved downward and the Ears
(I think that's what they are called) on my Tom is more of a pointy "V" as opposed to a rounder "U". Also, the front of the blade on my Tom is straighter with no rounded edges. If I understand correctly, ICE HATCHETS also weight well over a pound, whereas my Spike Tom weights just over eight ounces.

http://furtradetomahawks.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/chester004.jpg

It's a tough call Joe. Of course I WANT to believe it's an authentic 18th. Century Indian Trade Spike Tomahawk but, only more research and time will tell. I do think one of the stronger reasons it could be an authentic Spike Tom is that it was purchased in an area (Maine mid-coast) that has a LOT of Native American History (Sagadahoc County) Maine. In fact, the NatGeo TV show "DIGGERS" recently aired an episode titled: "Chasing Benedict Arnold". http://videobull.com/diggers-season-3-episode-6/ The guys also search the Historical site of old Ft. Richmond which is just a few miles (as the Crow flies) from my house.

Regards,
HARDBALL

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...BzedMLStRYJ48z3jpqrd2_PnW2SJrMKCViFU_HsP31iJK
 
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This might be a bit "much," but the option I normally use in those situations is to have the item laser-scanned. The product is a 3D CAD file.

Then you can email the model to a 3D printing house and have a wax mold printed. They normally charge by the pound for this... no setup charge, and always the same cost no matter how complex.

Then you can do a conventional lost-wax cast using your 3D printed molds. You can get this up and running in one working week.

Or you can skip the mold and go with a 3D printer that does metal, and just have the axe head printed directly. But, since you pay by the pound, the cost for metal is high compared to wax. They can print in any common industrial alloy (or combination of alloys), and the mechanical properties are usually better than casting due to low porosity. But you're on your own for heat treating.

If you know CAD you could dimension the axe by hand and draw it yourself. If you don't know CAD you could easily job it out. Laser scanning will pick up all the little features and such. Drawing it from scratch enables you to add and change any features you want.

PM me if you need contacts.
 
Hi Blasto,

Thank you for that information. This process did cross my mind (I couldn't recall what it was called however). I love the idea but, it's sounds pretty expensive. That being said, thank you for your help and should I decide to go this route, I will indeed contact you (PM). Thanks.

Regards,
HARDBALL
aka Tom
 
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