All I want for Chistmas is a sharpening system

J

Jemblade

Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
143
Hey guys. My Dad is asking me what I would like for Christmas. I am thinking of asking for a sharpening system. The budget would be around $100. I have seen Aaron with Gough Customs using the Lansky system in one of his videos and it looks similar to something I would consider. I seems like it would help getting consistent bevels. Although like anything I have hear both positive and negative reviews. From what I have seen that is about a $50 system for one of the basic setups. Is there anything that is maybe a little bit better quality in my range? I appreciate your input. You guys have been a really great resource in helping a dude that likes steel get started! Cheers!
 
Hey man, get an Edge Pro clone for $25 then use the rest to buy EP stones. The ones that come with the clone are bleh.

Email if you need more info. The clone isn't popular around here but it's a solid buy.
 
Strigamort said:
Hey man, get an Edge Pro clone for $25 then use the rest to buy EP stones. The ones that come with the clone are bleh.

Email if you need more info. The clone isn't popular around here but it's a solid buy.
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That was exactly my first thought as well. Thinking about one myself + Shapton's.
 
Do you really want to "put a knife in a clamp and run a stone on a rod along the edge" kind of solution?? Do you then start taking pictures of the knife in the clamp so you are able to put it in the same spot if you need to sharpen it again? Do you really want to rely on a guided system without the opportunity to learn anything about your knife, it's edge and sharpening in general? Do you like the more acute bevels towards the tip created by the mechanics of guided systems, etc. etc.

Or do you rather start practicing knife sharpening with all its amazing facets of maintaining primary and secondary grinds, the mechanics of establishing an edge, the burr removal, the maintenance etc. and not to forget the "meditation" part of it. Do you want to learn how to not only sharpen a knife but also a large knife, an axe, full height zero convex grinds, full flat with secondary convex etc. etc.

Get an Norton India combo stone (http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Combination-India-Stone-P69C25.aspx), a crystolone stone (http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Combination-Crystolon-Stone-P179C5.aspx) or, even better, a dmt combi diamond stone without the requirement of water or oil (http://www.dmtonlinestore.com/8-DuoSharp-C23.aspx), watch all the instructional videos here on BF and start free hand. It will pay back, you get better and better and you can do it anywhere without a clamp, silly rods etc.

Just my 2 cents!
 
Have you used an EP (or clone)? I've owned both. There is no clamp. Instead there is a table to rest the blade on. This allows for movement of the blade to work the tip/belly properly.

Using guided systems along with stones has taught me a lot about each other. They are complementary, not exclusive in my kit.

The EP isn't perfect by a long shot, but it does have a way of pulling you into the hobby of sharpening. The stones are more economical (at least in initial outlay of cash) than a lot of bench stones. The variety cannot be beat either. One last thing, I leave the guide in place unless I need to do multiple knives. In that case I just use an angle meter for repeatability. I have also modded the system with table magnets and drill stop collar. A quick change spring will be my next mod. These all make a decent system quite good.

OM, you will likely be happy with it. Just buy good stones as funds allow. I forgot to compare the hash marks on the rod with my EP before I sold it, but I don't trust them. Get a free angle app for your smart phone or use an angle cube or just go with what looks good to you if you don't care about precise angle.
 
Strig has a lot of good points. I started out freehand sharpening. And just like anything else, the more you put into it, the more you get out of it. If you are the type who gets a couple of stones, and busts them out when a knife gets really dull, then it will be years before you master it. If you put your nose to the grindstone (pun intended) and spend an hour or two sharpening EVERY DAY, then you will master it in a short amount of time. When i learned to freehand i was obsessed and spent every free second at it. Probably 20 hours a week. And after a few months, i was already making money here and there doing it. Just recently i purchased an edge pro. I got it from CKTG with all the bells and whistles; shapton stones to 8k, strops, diamond spray, drill collar, magnet, spring, etc.. The whole 9 yards. It really is a versatile system (that is why I chose it over the W.E.) A lot of what you learn in freehand still applies to the E.P. For under a hundred bucks you can get a dmt combo diamond stone for the coarser grinding and a combination king waterstone for finishing and you would be set. I can tell you the EPA makes for a gorgeous finished perfect bevel, but in final sharpness my freehand edges are definitely in a similar class as those done on the EPA. Both are hair whittling, phone book push cutting sharp. Forget about a lansky or sharpmaker. I think anyone wjo uses a sharpmaker exclusively is handicapping themselves. And if you dont care to learn the sharpening process, then just get a worksharp. You wont learn anything but your knives will be plenty sharp in the least amount of time possible.
 
For that I would just ask for a Spyderco Sharpmaker and get all the rods that that you can with it. The EP is great and I think having both systems is the best route but the Sharpmaker is great to start out. I am not sure about the clone EP, I do not like to trust clones but other member would be more knowledgable about that then me.
 
The Norton combination Crystalon gets my nod as the single most useful sharpening tool available - the AK47 of the sharpening world. Freehand is the way to go, you can learn very quickly by simply watching a lot of the videos available and remembering to stop and observe often. Half of your sharpening time should be spent checking your work - will actually save time in the long run. Start by learning to work on the coarse stone getting burr free usable edges and with that as a foundation you'll be hammering out good results in no time. The toughest part about freehand is learning your own limitations and understanding what you're trying to accomplish at each stage.

Also, I sell a sharpening tool through the link in my signature that is a full service unit. Has helped a lot of folks get great edges easy and relatively cheap, might be worth a look, at least the videos...
 
I am partial to the Spyderco 204 Triangle Sharpmaker with the addition of the diamond rods. If you can find that combo in your price range, then you will have a very good system for keeping your edges sharp. It comes with a very good instructional video that gives you a significant boost of visual and verbal instruction anytime you need it and you are near a TV/DVD setup.
 
Strigamort said:
Hey man, get an Edge Pro clone for $25 then use the rest to buy EP stones. The ones that come with the clone are bleh.

Email if you need more info. The clone isn't popular around here but it's a solid buy.
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Where can I get a clone? It's not like they're going to advertise themselves as "Edge Pro Clone Inc." :)
 
Between a little free hand and then using a sharpmaker, I get the edge I need and more.

I think you will be far better if you get a sharpmaker and maybe a set of Diamond rods to reprofile. Or even a Coarse DMT so lean up against the factory rods. And you can adjust the stand if you want something other than a 15 or 20 degree edge. Plus you control the angle of the blade on your own. I finish the edge on a homemade leather strop and tts pretty satisfying. I was going to ask santa for a an edge pro, but everytime I had used one, I ask myself what the heck am I doing. Too much if you ask me. But that is coming from a guy that started with an arkansas stone.
 
I built a EP semi-clone out of 3/4" thick aluminum and stainless and teflon bits using a Bridgeport mill and an old lathe. Made it a little different than my real EP in that the rear upright is dead centered with the table and the pivot is directly on top of the upright. Instead of the pivot moving up & down on the upright, my table tilts back and forth. My home brew machine works better and doesn't make the bevel wider on one side towards the tip than the other side. The off-center rear upright is kind of a design flaw on an otherwise awesome rig IMHO. It's going to ebay after 4 years of sitting in a closet.
 
Sticky said:
I built a EP semi-clone out of 3/4" thick aluminum and stainless and teflon bits using a Bridgeport mill and an old lathe. Made it a little different than my real EP in that the rear upright is dead centered with the table and the pivot is directly on top of the upright. Instead of the pivot moving up & down on the upright, my table tilts back and forth. My home brew machine works better and doesn't make the bevel wider on one side towards the tip than the other side. The off-center rear upright is kind of a design flaw on an otherwise awesome rig IMHO. It's going to ebay after 4 years of sitting in a closet.
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Pic's? Sounds cool.
 
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I'm going to redo the stone holder arm with one really more like the real Edge pro but with springs to facilitate quick stone changes. Then I'm ditching that pivot mechanism in favor of a nylon spherical Rod end from Mcmaster carr. This pic shows it outfitted with a Shapton Pro 8k stone. I have a series of cheap stones from Congress tools for grinding intitially. then switch to Shaptons then a strop mounted on a backing. I have a ruby 120 grit, EDM 220, res cut 400, a Y2K 600, Shapton2k, Shapton 8k, Strop. Once I get my new arm made, I'm going to try a progression of stones which don't change shape. a cheap double sided diamond 2x6 from ebay for 9 bucks for hogging, then spyderco medium ceramic, then spyderco fine then strop. Will probably more of the shapton pros in 1k and 5k as they wear like iron too. I hate lapping stones and drives you slowly to madness after struggling trying to get a knife sharp then realizing your stones are dished. I made the tool arm long enough to where I could put 8" stones on easy.
 
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I think a sharpmaker and a strop is a good way to start to keep you knives sharp. It will also help you with some stepping stones onto freehand sharpening.

The sharpmaker will help you learn to hold the knife at a constant angle as well as your strokes. The strop will help you do the same as well. Maintaining constant angle and proper stroke method.

You will be able to do this all for under $100 :)
 
If you guys want to build your own EP like device, search "file jig". It's a jig used by knife makers that is similar (some more than others) to the concept. You'll need to change a few things, obviously, but it may give you some ideas.

I'll be making one, but it'll be for making knives.
 
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