All-purpose sharpening system for the lazy and un-talented?

[Occam's_Safety_Razor]

I'm a long-time lurker looking for opinions and suggestions on sharpening systems.

I need a way to quickly and easily get my knives and tools sharp enough to do their jobs, without me having to be super-talented. I'm not sharpening anything to shave with, and I don't want to take up sharpening as a seventeenth hobby -- I just want my kitchen knives to cut tomatoes and my chisels to work well.

I currently sharpen my chisels and planes using a Veritas Mk. II honing guide (looks like this) with sandpaper on a plate of glass. (Feel free to tell me if you think that's stupid/awful.)

My problem is that I don't have any good way of sharpening scissors, knives, and kitchen implements. I own a SOG Vulcan Tanto Mini (it looks like this), which I'm terrified to sharpen, because I'm afraid I'll screw up the blade shape or mess up the sharpening angle.

I'd prefer some kind of system that doesn't rely on me being able to hold the blade at the correct angle without a guide. My chisels have taught me that I'm no good at free-handing angles.

When it comes to sharpening my serrated tools and my rescue hook (a CRCK Extrik-8-R), I realize that I'm probably doomed to buying sharpening rods and doing it by hand. That said, if anyone knows of a system that would also do serrations and hooks, I'd love to hear about it.

So, is there such a system out there? An all-purpose, shaky-hand-resistant, fairly-fast, easy-to-use, and good-enough sharpening setup? If it doesn't exist, what's the next best thing (or group of things) in your opinion?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Nomo4me]

Budget? I own several and will buy more as fickleness and spending $ dictate

 

[Occam's_Safety_Razor]

I probably can't spend more than $250, although if there's a perfect system available for $500, I'd still want to know about it for future reference.

 

[Wowbagger]

I'm a do it my self kind of person. I've sewed tents from kits to rebuilding my engines from the block out . . . heck . . . I can even make pancakes when I have to . . .

You got to be born or bred that way though . . . or grow up around some one that is that way . . .
From your title for this post I'm thinking :

Sharpening service.​

Preferably one here on BF.

I currently sharpen my chisels and planes using a Veritas Mk. II honing guide

Oh I didn't see that before.
I guess you're alright then.
I use that too.

 

[Wowbagger]

I probably can't spend more than $250

I haven't tried cold chisels on it; just use a bench grinder, but for most everything else I like the Edge Pro specifically one form a kitchen knife supplier that sells exclusively on line. They have contracted with Shapton to have their stones made for the Edge Pro.

I can't say who cause they don't give this forum bucks, as far as I know. But when you search it you'll find it.

I must say though . . . to get the most out of a sharpening system one must be able to sharpen free hand to know what is really supposed to happen . . . maybe I'm wrong there . . . the advantage of the jig is that is does it better and faster with less stone wear.

I swear though that since the knives are hand ground on sanders and buffers at the factory they are not perfect in their edge geometry enough to be able to just sharpen them quickly with a jig . . . one has to compensate and fiddle and that is where a non free hander can get into deep water.

What say; those who can't sharpen by hand and have the Edge Pro ? ? ?
I may be all wet here.

 

[Occam's_Safety_Razor]

I guess you're alright then.
I use that too.

lol! I do really like it. It keeps everything precise.

I agree with you about doing things yourself. The reason I'm asking this question is actually because I also like to be self-sufficient, but I can't afford to spend hours sharpening and I don't want to wreck my funny-shaped SOG blade.

I worry about sharpening in the concave curve on the SOG's belly with a flat stone like the Edge Pro has. Have you ever found that to be an issue?

I have definitely hand-sharpened before (thank you, Boy Scouts!), but, like I said, the Veritas guide taught me that sharpening at a super-consistent angle definitely gets better results (and the VG-10 on my SOG is hard to sharpen).

Also, how do you like the Edge Pro for serrations, scissors, and other awkwardly-shaped blades? is it usable?

 

[D-der]

Take a look at KME...

 

[Skunkeye]

Spyderco sharpmaker might work for you. The triangular stones make serrations easy and the flat sides are narrow enough to take care of the recurves.

I'd suggest watching some Paul Sellers sharpening videos. It is a myth that you have to hold a perfect angle when hand sharpening to get a good edge.

Also, I hate top clamping honing guides as I've never had one that didn't let the blade twist (and I have the Veritas). Side clamping for the win!

 

[HeavyHanded]

The Washboard block I make is a good all around system, strong on maintenance and finishing. Knives, scissors no problem, serrations can be done as well as long as they are not too small.

I've gotten a lot of good feedback from people who were helped out with their freehand by using it, and it uses sandpaper and lapping films at the grinding phase - something you're already familiar with. The newest honing compound incorporates some diamond so it can sharpen even the highest Vanadium content steels.

More details through the link in my signature below. The user videos are loaded with freehand tips as well even if you opt for another option.

Anybody can learn a base level of proficiency freehand, enough to cleanly slice tomatoes and other household and shop usage.

 

[cbwx34]

I worry about sharpening in the concave curve on the SOG's belly with a flat stone like the Edge Pro has. Have you ever found that to be an issue?

The recurve on your knife isn't significant enough... the stock EP stones will work just fine. Work the recurve in both directions, use light pressure, (should anyway), and if it's a concern, you can knock the sharp corner off the stones so they don't dig in. (But light pressure eliminates that).

And of course, whatever you decide to get, practice before on other knives, before sharpening your "favorite".

 

[bgentry]

It's really pretty weird. You'd sort of expect that there would be a machine with a jig that could sharpen knives perfectly with no operator skill. That a 6 year old could operate one. I keep thinking I'll find one. But, as far as I know, these devices/machines do not exist.

The Edge Pro is a well respected jig system that gets good results. But it definitely requires operator skill as there is no clamping system and blades can move around if you don't know what you're doing.

Wicked Edge is clamped and seems like it would be easier to use. But you sometimes have to change clamp positions with long or unusually shaped blades. You definitely need to know where to clamp and whether or not a specific blade will need re-clamping part way through. I'm unsure if Wicked Edge makes a round or triangular hone for serrations and recurves, but I bet they do. Wicked Edge is pretty complete and pretty expensive.

KME is supposed to be better than EP, not quite as good as WE, and near the price of the EP, which is much less than the WE. It has some limitations that are similar to the WE.

All three systems require that you know how to form and remove a burr. Otherwise you're sunk.

For inexpensive motorized systems, the two different WorkSharp machines are very fast (compared to hand power) and both have angle guides. I'd watched a video of a guy nearly destroying a Spyderco blade with the original WorkSharp. He held the blade in position for too long and formed a fairly deep recurve at the base of his blade, where it used to be flat. Doh! So the WS and WSKO (then Ken Onion edition Work Sharp) are both very capable, but dangerous if you don't know how to use them.

I'm not sure what to recommend for you. Maybe these descriptions will give you a little more to go on.

Good luck.

Brian.

 

[Wowbagger]

I am so glad you got my intended humor there. Some times I over do it.

Careful of some of the other “hold the blade / rod guided” sharpening systems they can’t deal with small blades. The clamp thing blocks the stone from getting down onto the edge. Medium stockman size pocket knives for example. This is one area the Edge Pro shines but plan on fiddling. You need to make a small blade accessory or buy one from them.

Recurve : Sounds like you got great advice from cbwx34.
There are after market stones available that are narrower that are intended for recurve.
here is an example. The bottom one.



Scissors
Odd blades
Being a woodworker you could easily make a little adapter block for the edge pro to sharpen scissors or what not. They might even have such a thing now; I haven't looked at their site in a while.

See photos below.
Scissors : in my family’s hands pretty much never need sharpening. We have ALOT of pairs and use them carefully. At work I have sharpened scissors on the spot free hand surprisingly easily using the little diamond grit paddles shown bellow in the plastic pouch. I carry similar paddles EDC in a little compact cloth roll along with a couple other sharpening tools. I just put the scissors up on a braced surface (chunk of wood in a vise etc.) and go after it with the extra coarse then coarse and that seems to be enough. Debur the flat side with the extra fine or the ceramic triangle rod etc.

Serrated : my kitchen serrated get touched up every decade or so. My EDC serrated pretty much never get used (self defense or just a short section on a blade I don’t use much.
so
I go after them free hand with the little rat tail diamond file (red handle) I think it is a fine or extra fine.
Then I use the Sharpmaker Ultra Fine triangle stone shown bellow. I barely touch the edges and we’re done. Run a fine or ultra fine stone on the flat side to debur; not to take off any significant blade. This stone works great for final finish on the recurves as well. Just hand held. I keep any eye on the results with a jeweler’s visor and bright light / sun light if possible.





PS: I bet you are aware of the Tormec water wheel and leather wheel do all sharpener. That is about the only one I am aware of that sharpens so many things but you are talking a grand with all the do dads. Definitely wasn’t the way to go for me. I might have even ignored the price if I thought it was an intelligent choice. I feel it has built in barriers to economic superiority, ignoring the initial cash out lay and I get better edges for my woodworking tools from other means discussed.

PPS: I have one other water wheel machine (old Delta) that let me know what I was getting into.

 

[The Zieg]

Good thread, good advice. I'm at wit's end with a couple of knives I own and am going to go the way of a service, but will try other routes first.

OP, I Love your moniker!

Zieg

 

[Wowbagger]

Paul Sellers sharpening videos. It is a myth that you have to hold a perfect angle when hand sharpening to get a good edge.

Oh no . . .
no, no, no
. . .
no, no, no
sharp for shaving arm hair . . . too roundy for cutting wood. I noooooo he makes stuff in spite of it all.
Partly kidding here but he sure does take a ton of unnecessary strokes. Blades not adequate for bevel up planes. Worse for bevel down (no significant edge clearance angle).

Also, I hate top clamping honing guides as I've never had one that didn't let the blade twist (and I have the Veritas). Side clamping for the win!

Check out the tapered roller accessory. Square edged / non tapered rollers suck. Veritas FOR EVER ! (i got one'O those other things too). :grumpy: