All Stainless Framelock I Just Finished.

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
4,981
Here's my latest.
Specs:
Blade:3.25", cutting edge:3"
Closed Length:4 3/8"
Steel: Blade, handle slabs and backspacer are .125" 440C, all heat treated and double tempered.
Pivot Pin:3/16"
Thumbstud:bronze and copper

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Thanks for looking. I appreciate any comments or sugestions :)
 
Fine work , Matt!

Champhered holes to decrease overall weight. I really like framelocks!
The holes would have to grow on me.

How will the copper/brass thumbstud hold up? Quite a departure from what I usually see. It really adds to the brass? pins at the pommel.

And of coures the filework is somethin else... :)

I like the blade shape as well.
Tom
Added: Just saw the ambi thumbstuds. Cool for the lefties. :)
Stout clip.
 
Matt, Great looking knife and am very impressed that you made this with such limited tooling. You've given me inspiration to try a framelock, Dave
 
Dave
You've got framelocks whipped before you even start. I think they are actually more simple to construct than a liner lock, you just have more difficulty with some of the machining due to the thickness. A little more time on the lock but you don't have to mess with those pesky scales and bolsters. All in all about the same ;) Thanks for the comments, if you didn't see it, I did a little bit of a write up/tutorial in the shoptalk section on this http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322063 . Your skills are well beyond mine but maybe it will give you some ideas.


I really appreciate the nice comments everybody. Especially on the logo, its something I really wanted to do but got very mixed reactions with my first couple attempts.


TOB9595
Is it the pattern of the holes, or are you just a fan of smooth handles? Just curious. Personally, I think they aid in grip as well as lowering the weight and dressing it up. Do you prefer a beadblast or some other finish? I'm trying to figure out what most people like.
The thumbstuds hold up really well using this method. I've done it that way on pretty much every folder I've made. Thats not a huge number but enough to give a good test. They are a little sharper on the edges than some of the lathe turned custom ones, but don't bother my thumb or wear on my pocket.
The pins in the back are also bronze/brass (brazing rod, not sure of the exact alloy) The holes were countersunk and then I peened it together with a 4lb hammer. Its going to a 15 year old boy, I wanted to make sure there weren't too many peices he could take apart ;)
I can't take credit on the clip, its a generic SS one from Texas Knifemakers supply. They are very sturdy, I've never had one break. Dont require much finishing either.

Thanks again for the kind words everyone.
 
Matt, I've had differing experiences with holes. Some have interfered with my grip comfort while others were not noticed. I can't give a good accounting of which models were right for me, as I don't really remember :)

I prefer a grippy to a smooth metal scale.
An example of this is the CKT Brend Model 2 MA. I have a smooth scale and a milled scales piece. The milled, or grooved, scales afford much better purchase on the handle than the smooth. Spyderco ss handles are too slippery for my edc. Yet I have many sittin in my box :)

I hope I didn't say that I did NOT like the holes. Rather, they are "different" in that they seem to be larger than I've experienced. Not better or worse, Just different.
I like the design and completion of them being champfered as opposed to just drilled.

Gosh it MUST be difficult to gather a preferred
style of scale for you to focus your craft on.
Anyway...It comes to ....I like scales with "grippiness" without being hand scrapers. Beadblast is a method, gouging, or milling, is another.
Tom
 
TOB9595
Thanks a lot! Feedback like this is very helpful, wish I could get it more often.
Sounds like you'd be more a fan of the aluminum handles I've engraved/nuggeted in terms of texture. I'll have to try that on a framelock sometime. With diamond burrs I guess it won't really take any longer, should be a neat experiment.Scarey as it may be...I'm gettin some ideas :D


Hey Don
Thanks alot!
 
Interesting concept................but why go to all that trouble when you can use titanium for the scales???


Did you have to bend the lock bar to the finished angle before you h/t'd it??

I have thought about doing this on a number of occasions with Stainless Damascus for the handles.....but havent gotten to the execution phase yet!!
 
Tom
I don't use titanium becuase I don't have the tools. I did all the cutting with a hacksaw and all the lock milling with a dremel and file :D
I've never actually tried Ti, but all accounts say its not fun stuff to work with in that manner :confused: I might try it eventually but for now 440C aint all that bad. I get it annealed, and precision ground so its pretty easy work.

As for the lock spring, I bent it just beyond the finished angle prior to heat treating it. It relaxed a little bit when I heated it, but not enough to cause problems. I have had success adjusting the bend a little bit between tempering cycles as well. The tab doesn't have to be bent all that far because its pretty stiff, you bend it more in terms of the travel you want instead of trying to preload it as a spring.

I'd love to see what you can do with some stainless damascus, I'm sure it would go over big. After seeing the prices on that stuff though I'd be afraid to try it myself :eek:

Thanks for the look, where ya been hiding? Haven't seen you in shoptalk in quite a while.
 
Looks great Matt, I'm no where near trying to attempt a project like that. You look like you on your way to making some fine looking folders. Nice job! ;)
Scott
 
Thanks Scott :)
Your closer than you think, just have to have enough interest in doing it to take the time and figure it out. I wouldn't say that its all that much more difficult than a fixed blade so much as it takes some a few new skills.
 
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