All you guided sharpeners what so you do?

R

rutcrazed

Joined
Feb 8, 2013
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162
Ok this is for all you guys that use a guided system. What do you do with a knife that has uneven bevels? I sharpened a knife yesterday and used the sharpie on the edge. I checked the angle with the angle cube 17 degrees. Thought that would suit me just fine. Worked on that side for a little while then switched sides. (did not check with sharpie) (Big mistake) Well the opposing side was a much wider bevel. Checked with Ben Dale and he said knives are often lopsided. What do you guys do? Do you live with the eneven bevels? Do you waste metal and re-profile? Or do you just sharpen each side the way the factory had it and leave them different angles? Hope this makes sense, because I need help with this issue. Newbie in distress.
 
I do both sides even, 17 - 34 inclusive on WE. There is a learning curve with the WE, I hold the pads low and I don't extend them out far. They get Wobley when you over extend changing the degree by 1 or 2 rounding the edge a bit. If your using diamonds, don't go to hard. I messed up a few of mine grinding to hard. Use a marker or feel the entire edge for a burr. Do the same to they opposite side. I'm very careful with the tip, I have also rounded a tip or 2 trying to go quick like they do in the videos.
 
Re-bevel to get the edge angle symmetrical and within realistic geometry, right from the start. To me, this is the best use of a guided system, instead of trying to use it to 'match' the often-asymmetrical and obtuse factory grinds on blades (I've never used mine for this). Used in this way, you'll likely only need to re-bevel once, and maintenance sharpening from then on becomes much, much easier. Your edges will be much better off for it.

If the blade grind is 'lopsided' (thicker steel on one side, relative to the centerline of the blade), there will still likely be some difference in bevel widths when both sides are sharpened to the same angle. Don't worry about it; it's only cosmetic. The greater and most important goal is in centering the edge and making the angle symmetrical, which is what will dramatically improve cutting performance (in addition to narrowing inclusive angle). To me, there's no such thing as 'waste' in metal removed, to make the edge perform as it should. Leaving wide/thick/blunt/asymmetrical steel on the blade's edge is a greater waste of the blade's potential.


David
 
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I would re-profile. That's usually what I do anyway, even if the factory bevel is even.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Re-bevel to get the edge angle symmetrical and within realistic geometry, right from the start. To me, this is the best use of a guided system, instead of trying to use it to 'match' the often-asymmetrical and obtuse factory grinds on blades (I've never used mine for this). Used in this way, you'll likely only need to re-bevel once, and maintenance sharpening from then on becomes much, much easier. Your edges will be much better off for it.

If the blade grind is 'lopsided' (thicker steel on one side, relative to the centerline of the blade), there will still likely be some difference in bevel widths when both sides are sharpened to the same angle. Don't worry about it; it's only cosmetic. The greater and most important goal is in centering the edge and making the angle symmetrical, which is what will dramatically improve cutting performance (in addition to narrowing inclusive angle). To me, there's no such thing as 'waste' in metal removed, to make the edge perform as it should. Leaving wide/thick/blunt/asymmetrical steel on the blade's edge is a greater waste of the blade's potential.


David
Click to expand...

I can't agree with this more.
 
I always re-profile and never try to match the factory bevel. Especially on FFG blades placement of the knife is also essential. Otherwise you can end up creating an uneven bevel yourself.
 
Perhaps I am a bit OCD, but I insist on perfectly even bevels side to side and front to back. Since most knives come from the manufacturer with angles far less acute than I find acceptable, I'm going to rebevel them regardless.
 
I use a sharpie to set the angle to the side with the highest grind then flip the knife over and bring the low side up so they are both the same.
 
Reprofile. I've never had a knife that was perfect on both sides. 15 degrees per side, sometimes with a micro bevel. The half millimeter of material removed means nothing to me. That and setting up the edge pro for the next touch up is a breeze. I keep VERY detailed notes per knife. I start with the angle cube at 15° per side and take measurements with a caliper when I'm done so there is no guess work in the future.
 
I set the device to use the same angle on both sides (I use the DMT aligner), and then I reprofile both sides until I hit the apex. If I end up with uneven bevels then I live with them. I figure the next times I sharpen I will work on the shorter bevel side first until it hits the apex, then I will sharpen the other side. Any resharpening will shorten the edge a little and so eventually the bevels would even out. No need to waste metal at the beginning just to even the bevels.
 
bdmicarta said:
I set the device to use the same angle on both sides (I use the DMT aligner), and then I reprofile both sides until I hit the apex. If I end up with uneven bevels then I live with them. I figure the next times I sharpen I will work on the shorter bevel side first until it hits the apex, then I will sharpen the other side. Any resharpening will shorten the edge a little and so eventually the bevels would even out. No need to waste metal at the beginning just to even the bevels.
Click to expand...


Unless you're a bit of a fanatic about it, as I am!
:D:D:D:D:D
 
15-16 degrees is usually my go to angle with some exception depending on knife/steel. I'm pretty anal about holding the knife the exact same way on both sides, and if the bevels turn out uneven I just figure on the next sharpening I'll hit the side with the lower bevel a little bit more. An angle cube is almost a must if going for repeatability in subsequent sharpenings due to changes in stone thickness from your 1st and 2nd sharpening of the same knife.
 
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