Along the frontline of WW1 - PIC HEAVY

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Hi all,

Yesterday, my girlfriend and I decided to take a road trip to the Western part of Belgium, more or less the region around Ypres. This area was the face of 4 years of trench warfare during WW1 for my country. Even though I have visited these places with my parents when I was a kid, my girlfriend hadn't so we decided to go on a tour in this area. I find the WW1 history very interesting, yet a tour like this never results in a happy ride home. You'll see why.

Our first stop was Polygon Wood, near Zonnebeke. This site, tactically situated on a hill had known some fierce battles. In 1917, Australian as well as New Zealanders concerred the hill but at quite a cost. There are two cemeteries here. The smallest one has graves that are placed in an irregular order. That has everything to do with the conditions these men fought and died in. Most of them were buried under constant threat of enemy fire, so they were buried the best their comrades could. To honor these circumstances, the later graves at Polygon Wood Cemetery have been kept in the same orientation.


On the other side of the road, there's a large monument for the Australians and New Zealanders, known as Buttes New British Cemetery & Memorial, as well as a larger cemetery where 2000+ soldiers who were KIA and were scattered throughout the region have been brought together on a final resting place. It's really impressive...




Sobering start of the day, to say the least. Next stop was the infamous Tyne Cot cemetery, containing up to almost 12.000 (!) individual graves, many of which belong to unknown soldiers. Their graves often read: unknown soldier of the great war, known unto god... The cemetery is located on a hillside as well, which used to be a German position. Some of the bunkers are still in place at the burial site. The enormous memorial in the middle of the cemetery has been built around the central bunker.


Countless names...




The visitor center showed some relics from the Great War, and I snapped a few quick pics. Here's a British clasp knife, a straight razor and a gas mask (which would relate to the continuation of the story).






If you're sad already, it's not gonna get any better, dear friends.
Next stop was the St. Julien memorial for the Canadian soldiers. It's really impressive. A giant, stone soldier, resting on his rifle.


All wars have at least two opposing parties, hence casualties on both sides. The German cemetery at Langemark is a pretty big contrast with the allied burial grounds. Squared stones on the ground, reading names of the deceased or -as in many cases- something like "zwanzig unbekantene soldaten" (twenty unknown soldiers)...


The row of stones indicate where the trench used to be...




Countless names, once more... to the right of this picture you see the beginning of a bordered piece of land, maybe 20*10 metres. In front of it is a sign that reads: over 20.000 unknown soldiers lie buried here... Total count for this German burial site is at 30.000+...


Next up, the road took us to Zuidschote, near the infamous "Steenstraete" (litteraly: Stone Street) where the German forces used mustard gas for the first time on April 22nd 1915. There's just a big monument here -like there are many in this region- but it did mark an important instance during WW1. I really had to come visit this place because a great-great uncle of mine was killed 2 days after the first gas attack at this same frontline, age 22. I haven't figured out that he was "hit" by the gas, or rather killed by gunfire or explosions. Even though many "logistics" of WW1 casualties are well known, there's no grave for my great-great uncle, nor a mentioning of his name on any memorial. He had a twin brother as well, who suffered to exposure to the German mustard gas. He was taken away from the frontline and died from the consequences almost four years later after the end of WW1 in 1919, age 26. I still have the medals these brothers received posthumously, and proud to have had such brave men in my family.


Here's a simple sign on the front of a house at Zuidschote, in remembrance of those who -out of both my great-great uncles' regiment- were killed in this battle in 1915.


Up next was Diksmuide. Diksmuide and its surroundings have long been the face of Belgian trench war. This is also close to the place where some Belgian soldiers opened the sluice doors of the Ijzer river, which caused the river to overflow and stop the German advance in its tracks. After that, both sides dug in and the trench war began. Here, some original trenches still remain, yet have been fortified with cemented sand bags in order to preserve them better.


Nearby is the Ijzer tower, in memory of the Flemish soldiers who endured a lot of hardship under (mostly French speaking) military leadership. They were seen as the "peasantry" and often used as cannon fodder.


Closer to Ypres, we also stopped at two major hillsides, namely Hill 62 and Hill 60. The former is now a Canadian memorial site...


...whereas the latter is a memoral site as well, yet it's being maintained in it's original shape. Hence: bomb craters everywhere AND soldiers KIA underneath your feet everywhere as well... The hill has been kept intact as a way of remembering.










Last, but not least, we also stopped at a Belgian cemetery, honouring my countrymen who lost their lives in this massive, Great War.





I know, not a lot of Becker content so here's a pic of the tools we used for lunch (some crumbs left too), but that wasn't the main purpose of this thread anyway. Just wanted, even needed to share. I hope you guys found it interesting, can't really say "enjoyed" the read, but I hope it did something to y'all. It didn't leave me unmoved, still feel sick to my stomach typing this.


Cheers guys, never forget the sacrifices of your countrymen, in any war or conflict.
 
Good post. :thumbup: Thanks for all the pics, very sobering.

This is a bit off topic, but.. reminded me of my visits to the D-Day memorial in Bedford VA and the 9/11 memorial in PA. I was 1 when the attack on 9/11 happened, but I can clearly remember most of the day because, even though I had no clue what was happening, I could tell my parents and grandparents were really, really upset over something. Air Force 1 even flew over the house on it's way to wherever they went when it happened, and I can remember my dad crying while riding me around on the fourwheeler and looking up watching it go over.
 
Thanks both.

This pic might be a better closure to the story:
The medals both my great-great uncles received after their passing, as well as their funeral cards (both received a funeral service at their hometown after the passing of the second twin brother, close nearby where I live nowadays, yet only one brother was actually buried since the remains of the other twin are still not located). On the left you can see Joseph, who died fighting in 1915, on the right is Francis who died back home from his injuries in 1919. In the pic there's a BK9 and some OKB playing cards as well. I chose aces because these guys are both aces in my mind at least.
 
Wow, powerful stuff. I'm sure a very sobering day for you and your GF. Maybe not the funniest road trip, but a necessary one. It's really hard to fathom just how many young soldiers, from everywhere, lost their lives in those wars. Seeing those thousands upon thousands of gravestones, and knowing that they're just a small fraction of the men and women buried all over Europe, really makes one pause and think. Thanks for sharing. And you should be proud of your great-great-uncles; they gave their lives fighting for what they believed in. Heroes for sure.
 
This is a brilliant post, I'm somewhat of a war historian and the places you have shown us have been on my list for sometime, I've always wanted to do a European battllefield tour. Thank you for sharing these wonderful pics. You must be very proud of your family history, albeit as I know it can be also very sad. I come from a long line of Australian soldiers, and I appreciate those war cemetery pics, thank you.
 
Wow. It really is amazing to go back to places like that and just get a little bit closer to history. It really makes you appreciate things a bit more. I'm sure the pictures just don't do the trip justice. I still remember visiting Dachau like it was yesterday and it was about a decade ago. Thank you for posting this and I'd especially like to say thank you to all who have served and sacrificed; where ever that may be.
 
Excellent trip post, G-shark.

It reminded me of my paternal grandfather, the only member of the family to serve in WW1 (all the others were either too young or too old). He survived ONLY because he spoke LOW German. His unit was advancing towards the front and as they went through some small town somewhere near the France/Belgium border, an officer came out and asked if any one could understand the captive Germans they were interrogating. Turns out all the Army linguistics schools taught HIGH German, the dialect spoken by diplomats and officers, and they couldn't understand 1/2 what the prisoners were saying.

Since my grandfather could speak Low German, he was pulled out of line and put to translating for the interrogators. A few days later, he found out his unit had been gassed and over 85% had died.

One set of my grandparents spoke low German and the other set spoke high German. They could only speak to each other in Spanish and English.
 
Thank you for sharing these photos. Excellent images.
I lived in Belgium as a child and we visited many of these sites. We were told of the our family members that had fought in the trenches and had died there. All I could think of was my little family had its losses, but there were 1000's of families upon 1000's of families with their own losses.
 
Awesome post man. My father in law fought in WWII, at the Battle of the Bulge, in Bastogne. Just Google Vincent J Speranza, and you should get several hits. His stories of the war are eye opening, to say the least. Your post here is as well, and I appreciate you taking us along with you.
 
Thanks, G. Sobering, but reality quite often is. One wonders how, after so much death, we were right back at it a couple decades later.
 
Awesome post and pics, G-Shark. My great grandfather was a doughboy, I am not sure where he was during the war though. Thanks for sharing!
 
Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts, comments as well as personal experiences with regards to the topic. I found your stories interesting and touching at times as well. It's good to think back to those people who gave so much, often the ultimate sacrifice, so that we could have the lives we have today. We nag and get annoyed, maybe become angry at times, but you know, we're all pretty fortunate in the times as well as the countries we live in. Lot's of it is thanks to those who don't live to tell the tale...
 
Hey G-Shark.....

Whew...... A sobering trip...... I cannot remember who I am quoting but the quote is..."No one who ever started a war had any idea what the cost would be"..... Unfortunately the highest cost is in lives........ It is good to be proud of those who defended their loved ones and to honor them with remembrance...... To quote an old Viking saying...."No man dies until his word fame dies."....... Thank you for sharing your remembrance and the word fame of your ancestors...... The Belgians and Americans have shed our blood together more than once and it is good to be reminded of that too....... Thank you....

Ethan
 
Thank you sir; most sobering. We Americans have little appreciation about the real impact of a raging war. Our wars have been in other places for the past 150 years and we do not understand what losing an entire generation of young men and women is like.
 
Galeocerdoshark,

Thank you brother for sharing your experience. My wife and I were in Belgium roughly a year ago and we stayed in Brugge. I wanted to visit Belgium specifically so I could visit some sites like you did. My great grandfather was killed in the quagmire that was Paschendaele. The records state that he was hit by a shell as he went over the top of the trench. Like your great great uncle, they never recovered anything of his body or belongings.

We drove from Brugge down to Paschendaele to the Tyne Cot cemetery. Whilst my wife walked around somberly, I sat under the tree by the central memorial spire and was very overcome with emotion at the vast and senseless loss of life. We walked along the massive wall looking for the names of the 17th Aus. Battalion which Reg fought in. We saw countless English, NZ, Canadian and Australian names but couldn't find Reginald Rudder. After we left there we drove down to Ieper (that's a capital i by the way, this I believe is how the Belgians spell Ypres) to the Menin Gates for the nightly ceremony at 8pm. The gates are a very impressive monument inscribed with thousands more names from the Allied nationalities. We found the 17th Battalion but alas Reg's name was not there. My wife and I watched and paid our respects very humbly to the ceremony where they play the Last Post every night. We also chatted to a number of Australians who were doing a battlefield tour. One gentleman and his wife asked who we were looking for. I told him Reg's name and Battalion and he said we were but an hour north of a memorial at Villeneuve-Bretoneux where he would be with the rest of 17 Battalion. Having come all that way from Australia and being so close deeply saddened me as it was getting dark and we had to return home. I am the first generation of our family since Reg to set foot in Belgium.

I wanted to also visit the area of the Somme, just inside of France where my grandfather on the other side of my family fought, but due to constricted funds we were unable to do so. Fortunately, Gerald Arthur Spring survived the war despite having also been hit with Mustard Gas. Ironically he was actually known as GAS. He went on to sire my father.

It was a truly humbling and sobering experience to visit those places but I am forever grateful that I did. And on a cheerier note, I got to see some of the beautiful Belgian countryside. It was absolutely stunning. To look at those gorgeous fields of the greenest grass you've ever seen, you'd never think that it was at one stage a century ago hundreds of square miles of the deepest, thickest, shell churned mud.

May we never forget the sacrifice that the men of the Allied nations made for us during that horrible war. And G-shark I'm very sorry that your kin and countrymen had to endure such horror on that magnitude.

Lest We Forget..
 
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Thank you! If you haven't served or lost someone who did... You don't understand the cost of FREEDOM. My Grandfathers served in both World Wars, both survived to live long and fruitful lives. Both are gone now, but when I visit them, it reminds me of the cost.


U.S. Army Corp of Engineers (Retired)

The Cold War
Operation Just Cause
Desert Shield
Desert Storm
 
Thanks all for sharing your thoughts.

@Mr. Becker: well said, and you're right. We've been on the same side of things many, if not all the times.

@Beekaynutcase: wow, that's quite the story as well. Thanks a lot for sharing. This is an open invitation and a reminder for every Beckerhead out there: if you ever were to visit my little country, don't hesitate to PM or e-mail me. I know quite a few interesting places, and I might as well take some time off and drive you around or something.
 
Thanks all for sharing your thoughts.

@Mr. Becker: well said, and you're right. We've been on the same side of things many, if not all the times.

@Beekaynutcase: wow, that's quite the story as well. Thanks a lot for sharing. This is an open invitation and a reminder for every Beckerhead out there: if you ever were to visit my little country, don't hesitate to PM or e-mail me. I know quite a few interesting places, and I might as well take some time off and drive you around or something.

G-shark thank you for the invite. We made dear friends in Brugge when we stayed and would dearly love to get back to see them and if and when this happens, I will certainly come and find you my friend.
 
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