Alox Cadet with philips driver and scissors

[Syph007]

I think I could call this a mini super tinker pretty much. This is an alox cadet with hard anodized black scales and c260 cartridge brass liners.

Getting the Philips on there was a royal pain. I had to add a custom rest for it, attached to the backspring itself. I made sort of a round dovetail joint and pressure fit it in. Lots of fiddly work but it works well at least.

I mostly only mod the bigger 93mm pioneer size, but this smaller size it growing on me, its a challenge to get the bigger tools on so you have to be creative. Next I want to see if I can get pliers on this small size frame.

Cheers

 

[Nick D. Fingerz]

That's really nice. I have all the parts, may just have to whip one of those up this winter.

 

[Syph007]

I had to really butcher that philips driver to get it to fit, but I think there is still enough metal left to leave it strong enough.

 

[BoxANT]

Awesome work!

The black and brass is a beautiful combination

 

[sir_mike]

Very nice! That is one alox I would use!

 

[OzarkCreekWalker]

Brass liners are always a welcome addition to an SAK in my mind, well done!

 

[Nick D. Fingerz]

I had to really butcher that philips driver to get it to fit, but I think there is still enough metal left to leave it strong enough.

Couldn't you just shorten the shank of the driver and leave everything else alone? You would have to cut and weld it, but I've done it on other SAK and multi tool bits. You have to make aluminum heatsinks to put on either side of the weld and hit it real quick with a TIG welder. Let it cool completely and do the other side. If you cut a dovetail or other tricky joint you can even use silicon bronze or silver bronze, with less heat, but it doesn't look as pretty.

I have a couple other ideas, guess I'll just have to take some knives apart...

 

[Syph007]

Couldn't you just shorten the shank of the driver and leave everything else alone? You would have to cut and weld it, but I've done it on other SAK and multi tool bits. You have to make aluminum heatsinks to put on either side of the weld and hit it real quick with a TIG welder. Let it cool completely and do the other side. If you cut a dovetail or other tricky joint you can even use silicon bronze or silver bronze, with less heat, but it doesn't look as pretty.

I have a couple other ideas, guess I'll just have to take some knives apart...

I've got no access to welding equipment or that might be an option. As long as it could be finished and shined back up nice again it would probably do the trick.

 

[Humppa]

Impressive work, Sir

May I ask you, in general, how you remove the pins? (I would use a drilling machine for this)

Kind regards

 

[GRIM 62]

Most excellent work,love it!

 

[Syph007]

Impressive work, Sir

May I ask you, in general, how you remove the pins? (I would use a drilling machine for this)

Kind regards

Drill press with center drills to make the first bit of the hole, then I use a dremel with a 2mm hart bur to cut the rivet from the inside out.

Hart burs are jewelers tools I believe. Works like an internal pipe cutter for the rivets. Its the only way Ive found to remove them without damaging the scales at all.

 

[DeadFall27]

Wow, I am very impressed. What did you use for the 'pivot pins'?

 

[Syph007]

Wow, I am very impressed. What did you use for the 'pivot pins'?

They are 1/8 inch pivots with custom ground countersunk screws. The pivots are from here. http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=60_83&products_id=471

 

[DeadFall27]

Thank you! I may send you an e-mail regarding mods later this week (depending on what the Vet says on Friday).

 

[Nick D. Fingerz]

I've got no access to welding equipment or that might be an option. As long as it could be finished and shined back up nice again it would probably do the trick.

If you use a stainless or nickel alloy rod you can finish it just fine. You will sometimes end up with two different "colors" . In other words two different shades of silver. You never know exactly what the base metal is or how it's heat treated so it's somewhat of an educated guess as to what rod to use. In my experimentation I've used 410 or 430 rod. It seems to work on most stainless tools. The tool itself will twist long before the weld breaks, even if the weld is less than optimal.

 

[Humppa]

Thank you for your replie

Nice to know, which tools you used.

Kind regards
Andi

 

[canyon56]

Very nice custom SAK with all my favorite tools! Well done.

 

[BladeChick777]

That's a beauty.
Would you by chance do mods for other people?

I think I'll have to learn how to do one some day and make a blue one with rainbow anodized ti liners and tools of my choice.
Along with a Black one with blue Ti liners and tools of my choice. =]

I can see them now, and they're beautiful.