Alternative convexing methods?

Joined
Feb 3, 2009
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Any of you convex lovers have any methods or tricks for sharpening a convex edge without the use of a mousepad? The dog ate my pad and I thought I'd look for other ways before I buy a new one. The tool in question here is a hatchet which is already convexed, so I'm just looking to touch it up, not to reprofile it or anything drastic. I have all the sandpaper I'll need but nothing to put it on. I hear that thick, soft leather is sometimes used for convex, but I don't think any of my leather has enough "give" for such a task.
 
I just remembered that I have a 12"x4" piece of hard felt from JKS. Has anyone ever tried sharpening a convex edge on hard felt?
 
I just remembered that I have a 12"x4" piece of hard felt from JKS. Has anyone ever tried sharpening a convex edge on hard felt?
I tried on over 10 different materials before I found the write thing to convex on for me.
A synthetic weight lifting belt.
Softer than rubber, and leather, but not as soft as a fine mirlon pad (for cars).
 
I use thin-approx 1/4"- closed cell foam pads that I get from a kayak dealer. They're about 14"x 8" and lozenge shaped and have self stick on one side. Used to custom fit kayaks to people.--KV
 
I use thin-approx 1/4"- closed cell foam pads that I get from a kayak dealer. They're about 14"x 8" and lozenge shaped and have self stick on one side. Used to custom fit kayaks to people.--KV

This reminded me that I have a bunch of thin foam packing sheets that should work.
 
I use thin-approx 1/4"- closed cell foam pads that I get from a kayak dealer. They're about 14"x 8" and lozenge shaped and have self stick on one side. Used to custom fit kayaks to people.--KV

+1 :D :thumbup::thumbup:
 
Me too. I strop directly on a stone. I saw Murray Carter doing the same on a video clip from the internet.
 
You could use your finger :D

Picture1198.jpg
 
Use a stone. You draw backwards from the opposite end while raising the spine. The idea is to roll to the edge stopping when you hear the edge scraping the stone. Just be sure of two things...don't whip up at the end of the stroke and start high on the bevel like at the shoulder (transition between bevel and blade face) and you should do fine. As long as the bevel gets thinned while being worked to a burr it'll all be good. It's a lot easier than it would seem.
 
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