Alternative Hardware for My PM2

BOOMER52 · Nov 19, 2018

Just recently I purchased a CPM S30V PM2 to replace a PM2 that I sold off awhile ago. I assumed the dreaded issue with the red Loctite was a thing of the past as I have had no hardware removal problems for the last year or more.

Well... it is said that man is not consistent but in his capacity to assume and be wrong. I was unable to remove one of the pivot screws. Nothing would budge it. I was replacing the scales so I was able to get purchase access for a pair of ViceGrips by cutting the scales away. Even then I had to apply heat to get the screw removed with the ViceGrips. If I was a conspiracy theorist I'd accuse the factory of playing games with random knives for nothing more than a chuckle.

I've had to request replacement hardware from Spyderco on too many occasions that I have become a thorn. So... I got serious with attempting to source replacement screws. That proved more difficult than anticipated. An identical direct replacement for the Spyderco hardware is NOT available on the retail market as far as my investigation results go.

I decided to go at the problem a different way and not try for a screw of identical appearance. So far I have been able to source some 6-32 X 1/8" button head socket cap screws for the pivot. I also acquired some 4-40 X 1/8" button head socket cap screws for the frame.

It's now just a matter of aesthetics... as the button head cap screws do work as replacement hardware for the PM2's pivot and the blade stop pin screw locations... BUT the 1/8" thread length I purchased is NOT long enough for the mid-body 4-40 screw. There is not enough thread showing to be able to start the barrel spacer so I will need to order the next longer length which is a 3/16" long screw. Those may require shortening...

I'm liking the button head look so they are a go for my knife. I'll post more when I get the longer screws and eliminate the last two mid-body 4-40 OEM screws.

on_the_edge · Nov 20, 2018

Good stuff. I know nothing about machining, so I will ask--how will you shorten such small screws and still maintain thread integrity? Also, do you know which is stronger all other things being equal--a torx head or hex head? My gut says the torx head is stronger, yet some folks still find a way to screw them up with poorly fitting tools.

jstn · Nov 20, 2018

Those are some good-looking scales!

lieferung · Nov 20, 2018

on_the_edge said:
Good stuff. I know nothing about machining, so I will ask--how will you shorten such small screws and still maintain thread integrity? Also, do you know which is stronger all other things being equal--a torx head or hex head? My gut says the torx head is stronger, yet some folks still find a way to screw them up with poorly fitting tools.

Can't speak about the screw heads, but I imagine shortening a screw is little more than cutting it and filing down the snipped end. Maybe if you use something like a laser or water jet to cut it you don't even have to file.

BOOMER52 · Nov 20, 2018

Allen Elishewitz at one time made an awesome screw cutter... however these were a limited run and more than rare nowadays to find one on the secondary market.

A number of multi-tool wire strippers have machine screw cutting capability. I've looked at several that cut both 4-40 and 6-32 screw sizes. I'll give my grinder a try first. After all it's just potentially two screws at this point for my personal knife.

I have no opinion on Torx VS hex. The torque we are applying with our knife screws can't possibly find more efficacy with one type over the other...

BOOMER52 · Nov 20, 2018

I finished off my PM2 with the alternative hardware and having the polished button head cap screws contrasting against the carbon fiber... I think it's a very handsome combo. The button heads provide a different appearance VS the Torx flush flat head OEM screws but in this case different is a good thing...!

Sharp Guy · Nov 20, 2018

Boomer, next time you struggle with Loctite on pivot screws try this...lay the knife on a wood block or a surface that's firm yet won't scuff up the knife, insert the appropriate size torx bit into the screw to be loosened, and give the end of the bit 4 or 5 solid whacks with a small mallet. Don't hit it so hard that you damage the knife but hard enough to break the bond. I started using this method a while back after reading that this is how they do it in the warranty/repair department at Spyderco. I've used it on at least a dozen knives and it hasn't let me down yet.

This is what I use...

BOOMER52 · Nov 20, 2018

Great info... ! THANKS!

I take a boat load of Spyderco knives apart and for the most part I have no issues. It's that flyer I encounter every so often and your tip will come in useful the next time...!

Rusty_shackelford · Nov 21, 2018

Sharp Guy said:
Boomer, next time you struggle with Loctite on pivot screws try this...lay the knife on a wood block or a surface that's firm yet won't scuff up the knife, insert the appropriate size torx bit into the screw to be loosened, and give the end of the bit 4 or 5 solid whacks with a small mallet. Don't hit it so hard that you damage the knife but hard enough to break the bond. I started using this method a while back after reading that this is how they do it in the warranty/repair department at Spyderco. I've used it on at least a dozen knives and it hasn't let me down yet.

This is what I use...

BOOMER52 said:
Great info... ! THANKS!

I take a boat load of Spyderco knives apart and for the most part I have no issues. It's that flyer I encounter every so often and your tip will come in useful the next time...!

Thanks to you both.
I’ll keep that tip about the mallet in my bag of tricks for sure.
I’ll take any info I can get about replacement hardware as well.

You should start selling the hardware yourself, boomer.
I know if I trashed my hardware or just wanted the domed screws, I’d like to be able to buy a set on bladeforums.
Find a source for washers and you’d be laughing.

Colorodo · Nov 22, 2018

Which Spyderco models do you make scales for?

BOOMER52 · Nov 22, 2018

I CNC machine scales for the following Spyderco knives…

Delica 4 FRN

Lil Matriarch… which uses the Delica 4 frame.

Endura 4 FRN

Matriarch 2… which uses the Endura 4 design.

Manix 2

Native 5 G10

Paramilitary 2

Stretch FRN

Yojimbo 2

In addition... I machine profile modified scale sets for the Delica 4, Endura 4, and Yojimbo 2.
The Strydica… no modification required.
The Delica/Delizano... no modification required.
The Delica/Lil'Para… liner modification required.
The Delica/Verrazano... liner modification required.
The Endura/Military... liner modification required.

Rykjeklut · Nov 24, 2018

Sharp Guy said:
Boomer, next time you struggle with Loctite on pivot screws try this...lay the knife on a wood block or a surface that's firm yet won't scuff up the knife, insert the appropriate size torx bit into the screw to be loosened, and give the end of the bit 4 or 5 solid whacks with a small mallet. Don't hit it so hard that you damage the knife but hard enough to break the bond. I started using this method a while back after reading that this is how they do it in the warranty/repair department at Spyderco. I've used it on at least a dozen knives and it hasn't let me down yet.

This is what I use...

That's a great advice. I just bought some copper scales for my PM2, but couldn't get a single screw loose.

lieferung · Nov 24, 2018

Don't think I've ever seen your scales on a Manix or Native - good to know!