Alternative to angle cube?

R

RipD

Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
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My Angle Cube is not giving me consistent results and I have to assume it's no longer working correctly. I did replace the battery.

Get another one or try something else? I can use my phone but it's too large and doesn't quite fit on top of an EdgePro stone. Something less wide than an Angle Cube would be good. Something analog may be good as well.

Any suggestions?
 
It might seems not that precise but I have great results with this

41Sis553zwL.jpg
 
If you want a really good angle cube get one these by Wixey,I have had many different tye over the years and these are the best hands down,after you make an adjustment wait a second for the cube to respond they do not react as fast as some other brands but they are always extremely accurate.

https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR365-...0054RJ7VC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_top?ie=UTF8

RipD said:
My Angle Cube is not giving me consistent results and I have to assume it's no longer working correctly. I did replace the battery.

Get another one or try something else? I can use my phone but it's too large and doesn't quite fit on top of an EdgePro stone. Something less wide than an Angle Cube would be good. Something analog may be good as well.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
 
Will take a look at the Wixey.

Phone is too large to fit on top of my EP stones. Also accuracy is not good. Tried measuring the same surface over and over and it's off by over 1/2 a degree most of the time. I'm not making jet engine parts, but some accuracy would be nice to have.
 
Just use the knife . . . if the edge doesn't cut well because of too obtuse an angle or if it gets dinged up because of too shallow an angle change your set up accordingly (add or subtract a little tilt tilt. Does it really matter what the numbers are ?
 
You could keep track of the angles and use the sharpie trick to make sure your hitting the bevel. It's the simplest and surefire way to get it done.
 
Wowbagger said:
Just use the knife . . . if the edge doesn't cut well because of too obtuse an angle or if it gets dinged up because of too shallow an angle change your set up accordingly (add or subtract a little tilt tilt. Does it really matter what the numbers are ?
Click to expand...

I sharpen by hand since I carry a schoolbag and this advice is very good. unfortunately a little hazy for someone who rely on a guided system.
But nowadays I tend to use more a guided system because once you learned to use it, It is super consistent. I sharpen all sorts of knives and it is true they all all have their preferred "ways" to be sharpened. I don't own any commercial sharpening system, The only one I use is a Home made jig. I feel that some commercial model does not cope with blade length and width properly or does not have enough flexibility.. and that is why you would want a good protractor to rig your jig :):):).

I took the Lev-O-Gage because it`s analogical, never need batteries and is right on. No need for "exact numbers" just a good guide. (I thoroughly tested that thing against a crappy Chinese box, a Canadian tire electronic protractor and my iPhone app and guess what.... the iPhone was best loll.) But still the Lev-O won because of "simplicity".
 
You could keep track of the angles and use the sharpie trick to make sure your hitting the bevel. It's the simplest and surefire way to get it done.
Click to expand...
Yes that's it ! I just put a few lines of marker marks, I don't color the whole edge, then some super light swipes with the stone in the Edge Pro and within usually two tries I am right on the flat of the sharpening angle and near enough to the actual apex (which has gotten microscopically steeper from use / dulling / hand touch ups with the ceramic rod ) that I can easily apex the edge with a 220 Shapton Glass or similar diamond stone.

This gets us to the angle, what ever it happened to be that worked well with this knife, and no fooling around with angle things.

I just have this old time, inborn "thing" that demands a machined, known flat surface on the angle finder and then a calibrate able protractor bubble configuration. The steel block with the holes in it just allows me to get into a spot that is shorter than the angle measurement tools. Not as convenient as the angle cube or the iPhone.
Call this an irrational obsession.

Alternative to angle cube?
Click to expand...
Well you asked.
These are what I would use if I had ever really cared about the actual numbers. I would still have to calculate from there because this (and the angle cube) is only going to give you an angle relative to the work surface (table). Is the work surface level? Got to check that. Both directions . . . fore and aft . . . port and starboard . . .
why are we doing this again ?

Then take into account the geometry of the grind of the blade.

. . . so anyway . . . if I were to do this I would have probably used these angle measurement tools that I have had forever. I've never even considered using them on my knives until your question here.
IMG_5643.JPG
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The other day I did use the angle tool shown below; after the fact. The edge was sharpened, the Edge Pro was put away and then I was attempting to answer a question about the set up.
This was actually the most direct route and the least expensive. It measures the ACTUAL inclusive angle. Got to look at it with magnification.

By the way this might be a good "check" on how all the cubin' and calculatin' is going for you. Is it . . . in fact . . . accurate to real world measurements ? ? ? ?
(this simple sheet metal tool being the Real World Measurement.)

This tool does take an ever so slight toll on the edge. Most people wouldn't even notice. I couldn't see any edge distortion with magnification.
I resharpened the knife the next day because intellectually I "knew" it was there. In theory the edge had some kind of distortion from this.

Just when I am attempting to sound all rational and stuff.
I better stop while I was almost ahead.
:rolleyes: :)
IMG_5621.jpg
 
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