Alternative to Wicked Edge knife sharpener

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Dec 15, 2012
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I am looking for a sharpener for mainly my multi-tool knives like a Leatherman. I was looking at the Wicked Edge until I seen how much it cost. Why do they cost so much? How good does the Wicked Edge system really work? Is there a system that will give comparable results for around $50 to $100?

How good is the Lansky system? Is it worth it to go for the diamond stone kit with the Lansky?

I have tried a few different sharpeners and also tried by hand with a whetstone and never really liked the results.

Sorry if this has been asked before.
 
I've used the Lansky system for years, it's pretty much the same thing, just with a bit different geometry, and the fact that you only work on surface at a time. I like it, but it does have it's limitations, long blades being one of them. There are a few other things but if you're going to mostly use it on your multi-tool, it'll be fine for you.

Other than that, it's a pretty good system and has served me well over the years.
 
I'll 2nd the Lansky, in that price range. For smaller blades like the Leatherman's, it's clamp is better suited to hold them, versus the other, less-expensive guided systems (Aligner, Gatco), which don't handle small blades as easily.


David
 
They cost a lot because they don't make many. It's a low volume seller and the materials and tooling are expensive to produce. It's a niche item so it's always going to be expensive but if you have lots of knives it makes sense to get a nice sharpening setup, whether that is stones a wicked edge or edge pro or whatever. If you don't have a ton of knives then of course it seems crazy.
 
Now I don't know if I want the Lansky system or the KME system. The thing I like about the KME system is you can put it at any angle you want. Where as the Lansky system, it only has preset angles. But the KME system is more expensive. Honestly, I do not sharpen a bunch on knives. Mainly, I will be using it on Leatherman knives like the Wave and Charge and occasionally, maybe some kitchen knives. Again, it will not be used that much. If I get the Lansky system, is it worth it to get the diamond stones? Besides ebay, where would be a good place to buy either of these systems?

What is the angle of the edge on the Leatherman Wave and Charge? What angle will stay sharp longer? These knives get used on a farm so they do take some abuse.

If money wasn't a problem, I would definitely get the Wicked Edge system but I will pass on that.

Thanks for the help.
 
I think most of the standard Leatherman blades are 420HC or similar steels (the 'Wave' model), though they do offer some limited/upgraded models in something like 154CM or perhaps S30V (the current 'Charge' models are available in both of these steels). Don't necessarily need diamond for their standard steel, but having one coarse/XC diamond hone as a supplementary addition isn't a bad idea, in the event you someday want to sharpen (or re-bevel, especially) something like S30V or D2 steel. With simpler steels, even a Medium diamond hone would work fast, for re-bevelling purposes.

Generally speaking, any edge angle between 30° - 40° inclusive (15° - 20° per side) is a safe bet for an edge that will cut well and be reasonably durable. On the Lansky, when sharpening smaller blades like the Leatherman's, I'll generally just use the lowest accessible setting. When holding the blade in the notch in the end of the clamp's jaws, that will almost always be the '17' setting. A blade that's about 5/8" wide (such as the Leatherman, or a SAK's main spear blade) will usually sharpen up at an angle around ~15° per side at the '17' setting. Very wide blades, such as on large kitchen knives, will sharpen up at angles much lower than the indicated settings on the clamp, which are only accurate when measured at the very front edge of the clamp. The further the blade edge is from the front of the clamp, the lower the true angle will be.

The Lansky kits are available at knifecenter.com. They are a BF member dealer, so I don't have any worries about mentioning them specifically.


David
 
I think the Leatherman Charge I just bought has the s30v steel.

I am having a hard time deciding which to buy. I really like the guide rod system on the KME better than the Lansky but if I get everything, the base, and the serrated sharpener, I will be spending around $150, costs $22 just for the serrated sharpener. Where as I can get the Lansky system for around $40 but it can't do serrated blades. I don't mind spending a little more for quality but that is a pretty big difference. I guess I just need to make up my mind.

With either of these kits, how many times can you sharpen a blade before the stones need to be replaced?

As a general rule, is there a correct way to sharpen a knife? Should you go into the blade or away from the blade? I have heard to do it both ways. While watching a video on these systems, he said never go away from the blade. Is this just a personal preference or what?
 
Lansky does have a medium and fine triangular hone for serrated blades (similar to the Sharpmaker's hones; I think they're both ceramic). These are available at knifecenter, as are all of the individual Lansky hones. The serrated hones are pictured here:

LSLSMRT.jpg
LSLSERT.jpg


The 'standard' hones (non-diamond) will last a long while, IF you don't do any heavy grinding on steels like S30V. That's where the supplementary diamond hone is handy. Two of my standard hones went a long while, UNTIL I tried a re-bevelling job on a thick, heavy S30V blade. Then it dished both of them.

Regarding the direction of sharpening stroke (into or away from the edge), it's a preference issue. Everybody has their own habits, but almost everything comes down to individual skill in the end. Sharp edges can be produced either way, and the best way to see what's best for you, is to practice at it a while. Different steels will respond differently also, and that will be a big factor.


David
 
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Whether you get the KME or Lansky, after a little practice you can get them just as sharp as the WE. I think it is ridiculous to spend that much on a WE when these other systems or even regular stones and get a knife just as sharp and cost a lot less.

Good luck and remember, take your time and practice.
 
Lansky does have a medium and fine triangular hone for serrated blades (similar to the Sharpmaker's hones; I think they're both ceramic). These are available at knifecenter, as are all of the individual Lansky hones. The serrated hones are pictured here:

LSLSMRT.jpg
LSLSERT.jpg


The 'standard' hones (non-diamond) will last a long while, IF you don't do any heavy grinding on steels like S30V. That's where the supplementary diamond hone is handy. Two of my standard hones went a long while, UNTIL I tried a re-bevelling job on a thick, heavy S30V blade. Then it dished both of them.

Regarding the direction of sharpening stroke (into or away from the edge), it's a preference issue. Everybody has their own habits, but almost everything comes down to individual skill in the end. Sharp edges can be produced either way, and the best way to see what's best for you, is to practice at it a while. Different steels will respond differently also, and that will be a big factor.


David

I guess I missed that on the Lansky's. How does that triangular hone work when the serrated blades are rounded?

You say they last a long while, any idea how many times you sharpened a knife with them? I'm not looking for an exact number, just a ballpark figure.
 
I guess I missed that on the Lansky's. How does that triangular hone work when the serrated blades are rounded?

You say they last a long while, any idea how many times you sharpened a knife with them? I'm not looking for an exact number, just a ballpark figure.

Most dedicated hones for 'round' (or elliptical) serrations are actually triangular, like these, to allow some flexibility in using them in different size/width serrations. Just use these as one would use the 'corners' of other triangular hones (Sharpmaker, for example), with very light pressure.

I've sharpened (re-bevelled, actually) dozens & dozens of blades with my Lansky hones. Little or no noticeable wear, up until I attempted that S30V re-bevel job, which was a little beyond what the standard hones were meant for. So long as the abrasive is capable to the steel, and pressure is kept light, most hones like these will last for years. Clean them thoroughly after each sharpening session, so they don't load up with swarf. If heavily loaded up, they will get 'slow', which will make it appear they're not working well.


David
 
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I think I am going with the KME system with the diamond stones. I like the guided rod system alot better than the Lansky. I just feel alot better with the KME.

I just recently got a new Leatherman Charge TTI, how much can be improved on the factory edge? Is it worth the time to sharpen a new blade?

Thanks for all your help.
 
Factory angle is fine, you'll probably end up re-profiling it to something that will better suit your needs when you first sharpen it. At least that's how I do it... Unless the cutting edge is messed I won't mess with it until it needs it, never know might like it.

And if you don't mind, do a write up on the KME, I haven't seen one yet, It'll be nice to hear from someone that "just stepped into it"
 
I have been toying with getting a Sharpmaker, but after reading this and watching KME's videos I am going with the KME set plus a hard black stone for that polish. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Yikes! Get the Lansky! I just picked up the Deluxe Stone version on Amazon for $35 and it is BEAUTIFUL. There are mixed reviews, but don't let them sway you - it's a wonderful system. Simple and a little janky looking maybe, but solid. If you're going to pay $100 for a KME, why not save up or fork out another 65 and go with an Edge Pro Apex? I just reprofiled and honed an edge to a beautifully smooth mirror finish with the Lansky system.
 
Yikes! Get the Lansky! I just picked up the Deluxe Stone version on Amazon for $35 and it is BEAUTIFUL. There are mixed reviews, but don't let them sway you - it's a wonderful system. Simple and a little janky looking maybe, but solid. If you're going to pay $100 for a KME, why not save up or fork out another 65 and go with an Edge Pro Apex? I just reprofiled and honed an edge to a beautifully smooth mirror finish with the Lansky system.

The KME will do just as good as the EP and it's cheaper.
 
I'll 2nd the Lansky, in that price range. For smaller blades like the Leatherman's, it's clamp is better suited to hold them, versus the other, less-expensive guided systems (Aligner, Gatco), which don't handle small blades as easily.


David

My Gatco diamond kit was 120.00, more than the Lansky which I also have and was 20 bucks less but use the Gatco instead.
 
I may be wrong, but you can check with the guys at KME to be sure, but I think you can use the Lansky serrated edge stones on it. The owner of KME is a really nice guy and will guide you in the right direction.

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
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