Alternatives to the Shirogorov Tool Pen for a Neon?

D

DC Kestrel

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Jun 3, 2017
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I just picked up a Shirogorov Neon; it is a beautiful knife. As much as I like it, I'm loathe to spend the $300 for the pen (which is out of stock everywhere, anyway), so am looking for a good alternative (i.e., not a coin or flat screwdriver). Razor Edge Knives sells bits (I would need a pivot and a micro body bit, apparently), and while they aren't cheap, they are a lot less than the pen.

Does anyone have any feedback on these bits? Any other good alternatives out there?

Many thanks in advance.
 
DC Kestrel said:
I just picked up a Shirogorov Neon; it is a beautiful knife. As much as I like it, I'm loathe to spend the $300 for the pen (which is out of stock everywhere, anyway), so am looking for a good alternative (i.e., not a coin or flat screwdriver). Razor Edge Knives sells bits (I would need a pivot and a micro body bit, apparently), and while they aren't cheap, they are a lot less than the pen.

Does anyone have any feedback on these bits? Any other good alternatives out there?

Many thanks in advance.
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Just use a flathead or coin and put some sturdy (ie: bounty) paper towel or thin cloth between the screw’s drive slot and whatever you are using as the driver. This will prevent any scratches.
 
I am curious what the issue with using a screw driver or other tool is if it is the potential for marking the knife from slipping then as Lapedog Lapedog says use a thin cloth of some type to protect it.
 
Lapedog said:
I’m pretty sure we are not supposed to recommend clone items, even clones of a company’s tools.
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Sorry. My question wasn't intended to get anyone sideways with the forum rules. I just want to be able to disassemble the knife without marring the screws, and I've learned the hard way that an ill-fitting bit isn't a great option.

But if the thin cloth method is the way the go, I may give that a shot when the time comes.
 
A penny works in a pinch. Won’t mar the screw. Unless it’s too tight which I have ran across.

If you are tight like me, you can make one. I started with a screwdriver I sent bit that fit well. But the slope of the blade puts most pressure at the top of the slot. That is what mars the screws. I carefully ground and then filed the bit so that it was wider at the base than at the top of the slot. This puts the pressure of use on the metal at the base of the slot instead of the top. This won’t mar the screw. Total cost, about 3$ plus about an hours time. I used a Dremel for rough shaping. Works like a charm.
 
I am just not seeing much in the way of options that aren't ridiculously cost prohibitive so I think a "protected" screw driver or similar tool is the best option.
 
I found a 5-cent Nickle was exactly the right thickness for my F95T pivot. The radius of the coin stops it from going all the way to the end of the milled slot in the screw head, so I filed notches in the side of the coin to make a screwdriver style tip. Plus the wider edge of the coin fixes the problem SVTFreak SVTFreak alludes to. For the small screws on the standoff and pocket clip, I thinned the edge and also under cut the tip so it does not bear on the shoulder of the slot but only down in the base of the slot. Works perfect. Took me about 10 minutes. Cost 5 cents.
 
Here’s the one I made. I also made the small size but it’s not with me atm. See how it only puts pressure inside the slot at the bottom. Prevents marring the nice sharp edge. FWIW, I also made one for hinderer same way but cut out the center. So it won’t mar the edges of that one either.
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OP here: Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I"m fairly handy, but grinding down my own bits it a little beyond what I'm comfortable with. Will probably looks into some custom bits or the pen (or may try the screwdriver/paper towel approach).

Quick question: The MRBS sits right on the scales; there's no washer between the bearings and the scale. I generally prefer tighter pivot screws to eliminate blade play, but I've read that with these knives, you have to be really careful to not over-tighten. My Neon flips very well (detent is still a bit stiff) with no blade play (or lock-bar creep, for that matter). How much do folks tighten the pivot screws on their Shirogorovs? Also, I realize that I may need a very light dab of loctite (blue) to hold the screw. Many thanks.
 
I barely snug mine. Often I don’t even put the bit in a handle. When I do, two fingers. Not much is required to eliminate blade play. I also haven’t loc tited mine but it doesn’t see much use. When I did use it more, there was enough leftover on the threads that it never backed out on me. YMMV on that though. The bearings won’t dig into the metal without a whole bunch of force according to shiros tests (YouTube it) but still not good to overdo it. The bearings will be more forgiving when a touch too tight.
 
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