Has anyone added a pocket clip to their aluminum frame 110 yet? I'm considering doing the drilling and tapping myself (I have a drill press). Looking for info on the type of aluminum Buck used. Any additional info and/or advice on technique would be much appreciated. I do a fair amount of woodworking, but have never done any precise machining. Thanks in advance!
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Aluminum 110 pocket clip?
- Thread starter rehwappen
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 1,544
I'll take a stab at this.LOL
I don't think the type of aluminum is important for this procedure.I think what is important,is that you drill into the steel spacer that holds the two aluminum frames together,which will allow a more secure anchor.Also you must avoid the pins holding the two aluminum frames and the steel spacer together and also the steel spring that activates the rocker.
If you can find a picture of a 110 that has been taken apart,it will allow you to see all of the parts to which I'm referring.
Good luck.
I don't think the type of aluminum is important for this procedure.I think what is important,is that you drill into the steel spacer that holds the two aluminum frames together,which will allow a more secure anchor.Also you must avoid the pins holding the two aluminum frames and the steel spacer together and also the steel spring that activates the rocker.
If you can find a picture of a 110 that has been taken apart,it will allow you to see all of the parts to which I'm referring.
Good luck.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 1,544
You're welcome.
I hope that you're successful and do post some pics as well as an explanation of your procedure.
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 1,544
Here are two pictures that will provide the necessary information to make it possible for the addition of your pocket clip .
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/584379-Like-to-look-at-a-110-diagram
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/584379-Like-to-look-at-a-110-diagram
Thanks again! The pics are extremely useful. FYI, I opened a chat with a Buck customer service rep the other day to see if I could buy a clip/screws set for a 110 Lochsa (I wanted to keep the knife looking 100% Buck). Of course since Buck's customer service is excellent, he said he'd send them to me for free. Once I have the clip/screws in hand, I'll drill/tap to match the size and take pics as I go. I've never gotten an in-person look at a Lochsa, but from the various pics I've seen it looks like the clip screws are just threaded into the G10. Don't know that for sure, though.
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2015
- Messages
- 628
HELLO- rehwappen----- I was a tool and diemaker for some years, be warned tapping a 4-40 or 5-40 thread is very tedious and being tilted will snap the tap like a twig. I was looking for someone else to do it because I know how tough it is to get broken taps out and then I remembered I have 3 Lochsa's and what do I need to have one tapped for. I think a better way is to insert pre-threaded pins into the back bolster. Now there is a problem with that I would try to PRESS FIT the pins. you can get them at a knife supply co. SORRY I CAN"T SAY THE NAME. Then fitting 3 1/8 pins together is not doable with limited space so buying a clip with 2 holes would be an option.
I looked again and they have STAND OFF and PIVOT BARREL pins .182 x .165 threaded for a 2-56 screw. Easier to drill a bigger hole and insert the threaded pin without breaking a tap. They have ones that are 1/2 inch long just shy of the width of the knife.
There are metal threads on the Lochsa for the clip they are on both sides and are most likely in the frame.
I had an idea of drilling all the way through the bolster and use a flat head screw on the opposite side to attach the stand off by a few threads and then no worries about falling loose. That would be really simple and nice and tight.
If you need the name of the knife supply co. post your email and I will send you the name of knife supply co. that has all the parts. If I put the name they would call it deal spotting and I've been in enough trouble here. They are not a paid advertiser so their name cannot be mentioned.
I looked again and they have STAND OFF and PIVOT BARREL pins .182 x .165 threaded for a 2-56 screw. Easier to drill a bigger hole and insert the threaded pin without breaking a tap. They have ones that are 1/2 inch long just shy of the width of the knife.
There are metal threads on the Lochsa for the clip they are on both sides and are most likely in the frame.
I had an idea of drilling all the way through the bolster and use a flat head screw on the opposite side to attach the stand off by a few threads and then no worries about falling loose. That would be really simple and nice and tight.
If you need the name of the knife supply co. post your email and I will send you the name of knife supply co. that has all the parts. If I put the name they would call it deal spotting and I've been in enough trouble here. They are not a paid advertiser so their name cannot be mentioned.
Last edited: