Aluminum for handles? What else?

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Sep 8, 2007
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Anyone here use any type of metal for handle material? I know a lot of wood gets used and it provides a very specific type of look and feel, but does anyone use aluminum specifically? I heard it is hard to cut because it kind of melts and welds to the blade doing the cutting.

I'm VERY new to all this, and I'm trying to come up with ideas for handles besides wood. Something with a bit more of a modern/sleek look and feel. I've seen a lot of your guys work, amazing some of the things you guys do.

I always just took knives for granted, figured that the big name shops are stamping out their designs, throwing them on an assembly line and having handle material fastened, then sharpening, then shipping out. I just figured all the art was taken out of the equation. I never thought about where knives came from BEFORE all this new technology in the past 100 years. Just good old hand tools, metal, and fire huh?

I had no idea that a small time guy could make such quality blades as you all do. I hope to someday be as good. Anyway, any ideas on the aluminum handles?
 
It polishes well, can be anodized, may be a bit heaver than wood but should be ok if you drill holes in the tang to lighten it.
Aircraft Aluminum will be best (6061) commercial is a bit soft
Richard
 
Aluminum is easy to cut and polish and work with, though not as easy as wood. If you're using wood working tools instead of metal working tools, WD-40 will reduce melting and welding.

However, compared to wood it is heavy, less grippy and shows scratches and dents. It can also sometimes rust, turning ugly white spots and (strangely) leaving your hands and cloths with black smudges. Hard anodized can prevent this, though it shouldn't be an issue if you keep it clean and dry.

It is a popular guard and pommel material on "value priced" production knives because it can be cast directly onto the blade.

I would recommend architectural grade 6063 because it has good corrosion resistance, though 6061 is much more common and would work well too.

The heat treat is very important, but not really something you need to concern yourself with because it almost always comes hardened. T5, T6, T651 are heat treat designations. You don't want dead soft, it is hard to work with.

You can get aluminum from Enco, MSC, McMaster etc.
 
I have seen a few WW2 knives that had aluminum handles.

Personally, I think it is a very attractive strong light material (that won't split when you peen a damn pin!), at one time it was more valuable than silver!
 
Awesome replies! Just the things I was looking for. I was indeed looking at some T6 aluminum because of the whole aircraft grade thing. I knew it would be strong and relatively light. It would give me the looks I'm going for I think.

But...if you are using aluminum stock bars or sheets, once it is cut relatively close to the shape you want it, how is it contoured and fine tuned?

Do you just treat it in the same manner that you do the steel by sanding/grinding by hand? Or do you have to heat it and "mold" it?

I tried Googleing things like that, but didn't come up with anything other than good ways to cut T6. Shaping it and contouring it are not covered by anything that I've seen so far from a Google search.
 
You're probably not going to be able to heat it and mold it. It behaves somewhere between wood and steel. You'll grind it on open grit belts. I don't recommend grinding it on a grinding wheel, it will quickly clog it up.

Files, open grit sanding belts, sand paper - basically the same as wood. I'd wear a P95 dust mask at least, same as non toxic wood. You can find them about anywhere including Lowes.

If you cut it with wood cutting equipment, take light depth of cuts and multiple passes and be very careful. If you're not pretty handy you might want to stick to hand tools.
 
I love one of mine that the handles are out of "Aircraft Aluminum" by WT Fuller.

He only had one hand and this was his personal use automatic knife.

wta.jpg
 
Awesome! That's what I mean. Very sleek looking. I WISH I could do that...How did you contour it so perfectly. Just the belt sander?
 
Just a quick note, aluminum and brass or copper are what they call dissimilar metals. If touching and gotten wet and left wet or moist the brass or copper will actually cause the aluminum to corrode. Be careful if using them together. I am not knife maker, but worked with aluminum for the past 30 years and was not allowed to use them together in my trade. The specifications were written out in the sheet metal industry manuals.
Jim
 
Awesome! That's what I mean. Very sleek looking. I WISH I could do that...How did you contour it so perfectly. Just the belt sander?

I mostly contoured it with the belt grinder, it's been a while since I made that and hard to remember every detail. :) I likely used files for a bit as well but they tend to plug up with aluminum. I also have access to extensive polishing equipment with grits from 120 up to full mirror buff on 5+ HP machines so going from rough grind glue up to mirror polish takes me about 15 minutes on something like that.

As for the dissimilar metals issue, I tooks my chances, used a lot of epoxy and peened the bejeesus out of those pins so the only place there should ever be any water, theoretically is across the exposed faces of the pins. It's still looking good so I guess time will tell.
 
Done correctly, I like it. Here is an old aluminum handled Benchmade 940 that I carried quite often for around 8 years or so:

DSC_2016.jpg


The finish did wear off in a few places and I did get some dings but overall I still really like it. It is light, strong, and can take a nice shape. I recently had a new plain edge blade put in this guy and still carry it all the time.
 
I have a good size chunk of 2024 have been wondering if I should use for some pommels at least. Anyone have experience with that alloy.
 
I have used aluminum alot in my knives and never had any problem with it. I perfer it over stainless because it's easier to work with and easy on the bits. I use 6061 and it's stronger than most people realize. Shapes great and polishes alsome. At first all I could get was a brushed aluminum look but added some ebow grease and higher grit wet sanding and it will polish as good as you are willing to work with it. I have made quite a few handles of all aluminum, I add weight to it cause I like heavier knives. I use it for my spacers, pommels, guards, I think it looks great with Damascus blades. I have 2 sets of matching daggers that turned out really wicked, This is my first reply, I wish I knew how to post a picture for you. I'm not familar with this system.
Bottom line is go for it. If you have a lathe you will really be pleased.
 
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