Am I opening my paramilitary 2 wrong?

Joined
Feb 21, 2012
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I've been looking at a lot pm2 videos and noticed that not a single user opened it the way I've come used to opening mine. They are all used the spydie hole to flick it open, and I've tried that but when I do, the lock bar is a lot more sticky than it is with the way I open it. Either that or I mess up and it doesn't open.

Anyway, I've come to opening my PM2 by pressing the lock while it's closed and giving my wrist a nice little and light flick. I don't even touch the blade. The lock bar engages fine and doesn't stick at all. Will this method shorten the life of my knife, should I be using the spydie hole?

They spydie hole is amazing for handling the knife and opening it slowly, but for a quick open, I've found my method to be a little more efficient. (and it impressed my friends)

So, am I doing it wrong?
 
I don't flick my $50 + knives anymore. Too many forumers have said that it is like taking a little hammer and striking the stop pin/lockback, etc over and over; can't be good. I just open with thumb at a normal speed. Some have said that they have created slight up and down blade play with lock backs, I don't know about the other mechanisms.
 
Some people say opening knives with a wrist flick puts undue stress on the pivot and stop pin causing premature wear, I personally have not seen this as I do not use a wrist flick when opening my knives. With the para2 I either open it slowly with my thumb in the hole or quickly by flicking my middle finger in the whole from the underside of the knife.
 
I don't flick my $50 + knives anymore. Too many forumers have said that it is like taking a little hammer and striking the stop pin/lockback, etc over and over; can't be good. I just open with thumb at a normal speed. Some have said that they have created slight up and down blade play with lock backs, I don't know about the other mechanisms.

Actually because the blade is so loose when I compress the lock, that I barely need any force to get the blade open. I flick it no harder than you would playing casually with a yo-yo.
 
Sometimes I open mine that way, but usually only when I'm fondling. Usually, I'll middle finger flick or use the hole to slowly open without flicking.
 
I guess I am also in the minority, but I flick the hell out of my knives forcefully and frequently. I cant say I have seen the long term effects of this but I dont really care tbh its fun.

I have my PM2 zip tie waved, which is my favourite way to open it, the other 4 ways I open it are the spyderdrop, index finger flick on the spyderhole from the back, thumb flick from the front, or hold the lock and flick it out as you said.

I wouldn't say you are doing it wrong, its your knife do as you please, but of all the methods that is my least favourite.
 
I don't flick my $50 + knives anymore. Too many forumers have said that it is like taking a little hammer and striking the stop pin/lockback, etc over and over; can't be good. I just open with thumb at a normal speed. Some have said that they have created slight up and down blade play with lock backs, I don't know about the other mechanisms.

By your logic, every time you open an automatic or spring assisted knife you are doing damage to the knife.

The fact is you can open your knife any way you want. It's your knife.

Perhaps the reason why it won't deploy fast when you use the thumb hole is because the pivot screw is too tight? Some manufacturers will ship knives with the pivot screw over-tightened to prevent customs agents from thinking that they're automatics or "gravity knives" (Though this is probably more common in Canada, where I'm from) But usually knives require a bit of adjusting when you get them.

Most likely you just need to practice.

anyway, Spyderco is aware of the method you use to open your knife and they've never said don't do it.
 
Unless you are cutting yourself when you do it, there is no wrong way to open your knife. As far as flicking goes, if flippers and autos can take it, then I don't think it's going to hurt my other knives.
 
Some have said that they have created slight up and down blade play with lock backs, I don't know about the other mechanisms.

I've got an original Manix that I flicked quite a bit before I knew any better. The top of the lock bar has visibly deformed from being hit by the tang. Still works fine, but it's not pretty. OTOH, I've got a Griptilian that I've been trying to kill for almost 2 years; I flick it hard all the time but so far there's no play, and the stop pin is unblemished.
 
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