Amazing dovetailed cabin corners

Square_peg

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I spotted this on the web. It's an amazing dovetailed corner detail.

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Get the whole story here.
 
No telling how the original builder laid them out. I bet he had a template.

I've cut giant ogees on the end of some 40-foot long 6x24 glulam beams with a 3hp router but I don't see a fast way to cut these with a router. Maybe with a CNC machine with some custom cutters. But those originals must have been cut with hand gouges.

Here's what I had to do.
Glulam%20ogee.jpg
 
Did you balance the beam end on your drill press table to bore that first radius with a 10” hole saw?

I did that once with a 4” holesaw on a 4x8, and sabersawed the rest of it. Very tedious, giant PITA. Sure wished I had a Forstner bit or similar and a quarter-nose chainsaw bar.

Now I just persuade the client to accept a bevel end.

Parker
 
I made a backset template for my 3hp router and cut it from both sides (one at a time) with a 1/2 x 4" straight cut bit. I made successively deeper passes about 5/8" at a time. When I finished the second side and the piece fell off I had about 1/16" error in the center that I had to sand off. Then I hit the cut with a 1/4" corner round. I considered using a large jigsaw but decided the router would give a cleaner cut. It was the right choice. These beams were for a roof over a skybridge from a parking lot to a local city hall. They came out really good.
 
That is just amazing talent/work. I have never seen any like that. Thanks for posting.
 
I spotted this on the web. It's an amazing dovetailed corner detail.

Dovetail%201.jpg

Dovetail%202.jpg

Dovetail%203.jpg

Dovetail%204.jpg


Get the whole story here.
Reminds me of a fancy carpenter's tool chest, where the skill of the builder is on full display and for no real reason other than he could.
Hat's off to whoever he was.
 
Thank you S P for posting this. It is great to see this kind of a post on the forum.
42 years ago I inspected a historic horizontal log building near Frisco Colorado that had this kind of a corner notch. The only time I have ever seen this kind of a corner notch.

In a book- "Der Blockbau" published in Karlsruhe Germany, 1942, by Hermann Phleps a similar notch is shown on a historic log building in Karnten Province, Austria. In 1982 Lee Valley Tools Ltd. translated this book to English and published it under the title "The Craft of Log Building". On pager 64, figure 77/42 this notch is clearly illustrated. On page 67, figure 82 and 83, if you look close, you will see it again.

As to replicating the notch:
The historic photos above of the notches were on a historic hand hewn (broad axe) horizontal log building. The modern photos of the reproduced notch were on nominally dimensioned saw mill timbers.
You can use a template when building with sawn timbers. With hand hewn timbers you can not easily use a template because no two hewn timbers are alike do to the hewing process, the sweep, twist and taper of the log. The way to do it, as it was done historically, is to cut a notch on the top of all 4 corners of the last logs put into the walls. Then lay the the next 2 logs across at 90 deg. and taking into account the sweep, twist, and taper of all the logs, transfer the notch dimensions of the 4 new notches that you cut onto the bottom of the 2 new cross logs using a log scribe. Continue this process up to the top plate log.
This notch shown is an excellent notch (unnecessarily complicated in my opinion) because it not only locks the corner tight but it slopes out to drain any water from the corner notch.
 
Thank you S P for posting this. It is great to see this kind of a post on the forum.
42 years ago I inspected a historic horizontal log building near Frisco Colorado that had this kind of a corner notch. The only time I have ever seen this kind of a corner notch.

In a book- "Der Blockbau" published in Karlsruhe Germany, 1942, by Hermann Phleps a similar notch is shown on a historic log building in Karnten Province, Austria. In 1982 Lee Valley Tools Ltd. translated this book to English and published it under the title "The Craft of Log Building". On pager 64, figure 77/42 this notch is clearly illustrated. On page 67, figure 82 and 83, if you look close, you will see it again.

As to replicating the notch:
The historic photos above of the notches were on a historic hand hewn (broad axe) horizontal log building. The modern photos of the reproduced notch were on nominally dimensioned saw mill timbers.
You can use a template when building with sawn timbers. With hand hewn timbers you can not easily use a template because no two hewn timbers are alike do to the hewing process, the sweep, twist and taper of the log. The way to do it, as it was done historically, is to cut a notch on the top of all 4 corners of the last logs put into the walls. Then lay the the next 2 logs across at 90 deg. and taking into account the sweep, twist, and taper of all the logs, transfer the notch dimensions of the 4 new notches that you cut onto the bottom of the 2 new cross logs using a log scribe. Continue this process up to the top plate log.
This notch shown is an excellent notch (unnecessarily complicated in my opinion) because it not only locks the corner tight but it slopes out to drain any water from the corner notch.
Thanks, Bernie. I appreciate your experience and insights into how it was really done.

It turns out Lee Valley still sells that book and I now have a copy headed my way.
 
In a book- "Der Blockbau" published in Karlsruhe Germany, 1942, by Hermann Phleps a similar notch is shown on a historic log building in Karnten Province, Austria. In 1982 Lee Valley Tools Ltd. translated this book to English and published it under the title "The Craft of Log Building". On pager 64, figure 77/42 this notch is clearly illustrated. On page 67, figure 82 and 83, if you look close, you will see it again.
.........
This notch shown is an excellent notch (unnecessarily complicated in my opinion) because it not only locks the corner tight but it slopes out to drain any water from the corner notch.
Thanks, Bernie. That book shows a number of similar corners designed as much for strength as for appearance and an opportunity for the craftsman to display his skills. And as for being unnecessarily complicated, anything beyond the out-sloped dovetails shown in figures 33 and 34 are likely unnecessary.

Pg64.jpg


Pg66.jpg


I also like the corner boards shown in Figure 85. These protect the endgrain from becoming soaked. This would be a great detail for the Pacific Northwet.

Pg67.jpg



Some of the interior wall connections are designed to please the customer and again to show off the skill of the builder.
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