American Felling vs Kelly True Temper

[Takujualuk]

I really like my new Gransfors Americal Felling Axe. I got the straight handle design and it works very well..maybe being just a bit "sticky" but penetrating well with lots of penetration. It compares well to the Classic Jersey patter Kelly perfect but I still prefer the old axe as it sticks a bit less whil penetrating almost as well. Still good axes both. Nice to know there is an axe version out today that compares so well

Further impressions here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NT7flHPvS_g&list=UUMrvqN2-Jr7OAnV0ceWlkmw

 

[Twoinch]

an ax can have too much penetration. you want "proper" penetration, while at the same time, the profile of the ax should throw, blow, or burst(you pick) the chips out of the notch. flat profiled axes can over penetrate and fail to clear chips. a very steep, high center lined ax will fail to penetrate, leaving little chip to clear. having a high center line, while maintaining a thin enough bit is key to a functional ax.

the curvature of the bit also plays a major role in penetration also. i personally dont agree with the line drawing process, crossing lines from the poll to the heel and toe method.. the bit does not know, or care, how the steel is oriented behind it. but a sufficient curve is necessary to create large block like chips

that kelly perfect can not be topped, as long as it is ground and profiled properly.

i give granfors credit for the fact that they are producing quality axes in todays market, and compared to pretty much any other current makers, there products are top notch. but they are not on the level of the big boys of the past. they have the steel, but the rest could use some work. that is just opinion of course. nice vid by the way!

 

[Double Ott]

an ax can have too much penetration. you want "proper" penetration, while at the same time, the profile of the ax should throw, blow, or burst(you pick) the chips out of the notch. flat profiled axes can over penetrate and fail to clear chips. a very steep, high center lined ax will fail to penetrate, leaving little chip to clear. having a high center line, while maintaining a thin enough bit is key to a functional ax.

the curvature of the bit also plays a major role in penetration also. i personally dont agree with the line drawing process, crossing lines from the poll to the heel and toe method.. the bit does not know, or care, how the steel is oriented behind it. but a sufficient curve is necessary to create large block like chips

that kelly perfect can not be topped, as long as it is ground and profiled properly.

i give granfors credit for the fact that they are producing quality axes in todays market, and compared to pretty much any other current makers, there products are top notch. but they are not on the level of the big boys of the past. they have the steel, but the rest could use some work. that is just opinion of course. nice vid by the way!

I personally like your opinion(s). I'm a Kelly lover and collector. I'll have to get a count of my collection one of these days.

Tom

 

[Takujualuk]

an ax can have too much penetration. you want "proper" penetration, while at the same time, the profile of the ax should throw, blow, or burst(you pick) the chips out of the notch. flat profiled axes can over penetrate and fail to clear chips. a very steep, high center lined ax will fail to penetrate, leaving little chip to clear. having a high center line, while maintaining a thin enough bit is key to a functional ax.

the curvature of the bit also plays a major role in penetration also. i personally dont agree with the line drawing process, crossing lines from the poll to the heel and toe method.. the bit does not know, or care, how the steel is oriented behind it. but a sufficient curve is necessary to create large block like chips

that kelly perfect can not be topped, as long as it is ground and profiled properly.

i give granfors credit for the fact that they are producing quality axes in todays market, and compared to pretty much any other current makers, there products are top notch. but they are not on the level of the big boys of the past. they have the steel, but the rest could use some work. that is just opinion of course. nice vid by the way!

Thanks.. The Kelly True Temper is called the perfect for a reason I guess. They were an evolved design that were based on many decades of feedback in an era when people really used axes! The Gransfors American Felling axe was designed with some input from some folks who know axes and as a result is a pretty usable piece of kit too...just not quite up to perfect status. Still a very good axe with a good design that does a good job with throwing chips...with maybe just a bit too much "stick" on occasion. Enough meat to convex the edge and maybe solve the issue completely.

 

[Twoinch]

the high center line many speak of comes from two particular aspects of an ax design.

with a flatter cheeked ax, you can develop a slightly higher center line by increasing the curve of the bit itself, and filing the bit to an even taper with an ax gauge. if the bit tapers back the same from toe to heel, and the bit is curved sufficiently, a high center line will develop.

with an ax that is forged with essentially flat cheeks, you wont be able to develop much of a profile, but you can improve it enough to notice improved performance usually, unless like most euro axes, its pretty thin for the first two inches of bit.

in my experiences with american style axes with 4.75" to 5" bits, if you draw a line from the heel to the toe, and measure how much bit is below the line... you should have roughly 5/8 of an inch at the center of the bit. that has been about "perfect" in my opinion for an general purpose, all wood type ax.