Ames model 1

R

red vasilis

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Mar 21, 2020
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Good morning my name is vasilis I'm new to the forum and thanks a lot for accepting, I have a question about Rockwell Model1 Ames, I bought an old model from ebay and would like to ask how can I calibrate? because the ames controller having a serial number less than 14067 cannot be calibrated. Thanks in advance
 
red vasilis said:
Good morning my name is vasilis I'm new to the forum and thanks a lot for accepting, I have a question about Rockwell Model1 Ames, I bought an old model from ebay and would like to ask how can I calibrate? because the ames controller having a serial number less than 14067 cannot be calibrated. Thanks in advance
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Hey Vasilis, as far as I know you can't calibrate it.
Just get some test blocks, study the videos on the technique to use it and practice allot.

I bought an old one a while back too and I have been practicing. I can get repeatable results sometimes.

The difference between my test blocks rating and the reading I get is about 2-3 RC

When I got mine the readings were all over the place. I took it apart as far as I could without taking off the dial indicator, then cleaned and lubricated it as best as I could.

Good luck!! My plan is to buy a tabletop hardness tester when I can afford one. There Ames and it's clones are too dependant on technique to be reliable in my opinion.
 
They can be sent back to the manufacturer to be recallibrated. I have in import version of one, and it has been reliable, until I left it by the stove, and my wife cooked bacon. I has to clean it to get it to work right again. I had to replace the indenter last year, when everything read Rc65+.

mine has worked, as long as I looked after it.
 
Willie71 said:
They can be sent back to the manufacturer to be recallibrated. I have in import version of one, and it has been reliable, until I left it by the stove, and my wife cooked bacon. I has to clean it to get it to work right again. I had to replace the indenter last year, when everything read Rc65+.

mine has worked, as long as I looked after it.
Click to expand...
The mfr won't calibrate it if it's too old.
 
If you have 2 calibration blocks at different hrc you could get a very good idea as to how it measures percentage wise. Good blocks are a little pricy.

Alternatively you can test some coupons to see what ht recipe gives you the highest reading. You won't know the exact hardness but will know you got max hardness and go from there.

Finally you could do up some coupons, get the tested at a machine shop and use them a cheap calibration blocks. Just be aware that rc can be different at various points.

I woulndt advertise any numbers unless I was confident my numbers were accurate.
 
Just saw the message u sent me. I actually lost that tester when I moved outta my old house. I had to store my shop for about a year before I set up my new one. I searched high and low and have no clue where it went. If u open the back up and take a pic and post it I can tell you what to do to adjust it. It’s really easy.
 
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ok?
 
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Mine wasn’t like that. The round back part had 4 screws you could take out and open up. Inside there was a pin that slid on the penetrator. You could move that depending on what reading you got on a test block.
 
You had mentioned that the round back part had 4 screws that I could remove and open to make adjustments. Can you tell me which screw I need to remove I have numbered them in the picture with 1, 2, 3, 4 ?
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On mine, the plate that your #3 screw holds on, was held on with 4 screws around the outside of it. I took those off and could get to the inside. There’s a plunger that moved back and forth and it pushed on a arm near where your #2 screw is. I could loosen the dial and turn it so the plunger would push at a different spot on the arm. I’m talking I moved it very very little. Couple thousands if I had to measure. I’d put it all back together and take 4-5 more readings on my test block. Depending on the reading average you go back inside and turn the dial and plunger either left or right. One way would up the reading the other lowered it. I’d just fuss with it till it read what the test block was.
 
I have a model 2 so this may not apply.

I think you can loosen the screw number 3. This will allow you to rotate the dial assembly. Essentially it's a very accurate dial indicator that measures the flex in the assembly. By moving the contact point closer to or further from the fulcrum it adjusts the readings a few points. Just try different orientations and see if any match up to you test standard.
 
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