Ammo Reloading Help

hilltopper

hilltopper

Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
90
Greetings, I am interested in getting started in reloading rifle and pistol ammo. What is the best reloader and what supplies would you start with? Thanks in advance.
 
I used to do a good bit of IDPA shooting, so I started reloading with a RCBS hand-advance press. It made a pretty good number of rounds for not a lot of bucks. When I really started shooting a lot, it couldn't quite keep up, so I went to a Dillon press with automatic case feeder. With that one all you have to do is drop a bullet in the case, and the press does the rest. Every pull of the handle advances the case to the next step, and once it gets going, you can do 500-600 rds/hr pretty easily. I forget which model RCBS I had, but the Dillon is an XL-650. I think I spent about $1000-$1200 on it with all the goodies.
 
First.....Get at least one good reloading manual, and
read...read...read.
 
A small hand press like a RCBS Rockchucker is a good way to learn the basics, then something like the Dillon 650 is a good buy if you shoot a lot.

Then same as has been said READ READ READ, a lot of nice guns have been blowed up by bad reloads. Even when you have been doing it for a while it’s still easy to make mistakes.

My worst was getting a ten shot average velocity of 4017fps out of a 25-06 with 75 grain bullets. 7 out of the 10 cases left the primers in the gun when they ejected. It was a very strong action on a custom rifle or I would have stopped after the first round. :D
 
Horned Toad said:
A small hand press like a RCBS Rockchucker is a good way to learn the basics, then something like the Dillon 650 is a good buy if you shoot a lot.

Then same as has been said READ READ READ, a lot of nice guns have been blowed up by bad reloads. Even when you have been doing it for a while it’s still easy to make mistakes.
Click to expand...

:thumbup: +1 on the rockchucker and Dillion.
 
I used to hand load .45 lead because I did the IDPA. If you are doing it to save some money you might want to run the numbers. I didn't find it a great money saver for common calibers such as .45 or 9mm. You can get them on line for cheap.
It takes about $1,000. to get fully set up with a progressive set up (Less for the Lee).
Press, dies, scale, impact puller, safety glasses; reloading table, bins, boxes
Then add the cost of comonnets - brass, bullets, powder, primers

Check out the link below
http://www.ammoman.com/index.htm
229 for 1,000 rounds of 9mm
500 for 1,000 of 45 is hard to beat

Definately read up on it for safety sake.
Double powder loads or no powder, wrong powder and primer combo; seat bullet too deep or not tight enough are all very dangerous.
 
RCBS has a complete "Rockchucker" setup for beginners that includes the scale, powder drop, etc. Definitely the most cost effective way to go and get a good system to learn on.

Whether you get a single stage RockChucker or a progressive Dillion depends how much you shoot and what you shoot.

Custom hunting loads are best done on a RockChucker. High volume IDPA/IPSC shooters will need a Dillion if they want to make range day and shoot as opposed to loading in their garage. ;)

I shot so much 9mm for a while that I didn't have time to reload and shoot. 9mm is still cheap enough to just shoot and leave the brass on the ground. How much spare time do you have?

Be sure to do the math of how much a reload costs vs. a new round. Then factor in something for your time. Offset that with the benefits of making special loads for a hunting rifle. $300 added to the cost of reloads means you need to shoot a lot to make the financials work out. If you shoot that much, your time has value too!

How many centerfire rounds do you shoot per year? ;)
 
If you are just getting started in reloading Lee Precision is a great place to start. Go to www.leeprecision.com and look at their products, in particular their #90045 basic press. What you want in the beginning is not speed, but a good, solid understanding of the basic processes of reloading metallic cartridge ammunition. Fancy equipment and production speed can come much later. Lee is by far the best value for the money in basic and intermediate equipment. First YOU NEED LEE'S BOOK on the reloading process. It is essential! Their little #90045 press will load every pistol and rifle cartridge you are likely to encounter, with the probable exception of the .50 BMG round. At times I have seen them advertising package deals where if you buy their book they would send you the press for free. They also used to sell "seconds" in their presses, which simply meant the paint was smeared a little. I bought a couple of their $35 presses for $10 each that way. Ask them about seconds. So you need the book, and a press, and then you need the dies and a powder measure. Lee sells a nice package deal on those, too, with the dies, instructions (recipes), and powder measure for a particular cartridge, all in one package. That's the way to go. Remember, go slow at first, both in your equipment purchases and in your production speed.
 
I had a Lee progressive press - the big one - it is a good product for a good price. Some might say it isn't as heavy duty as some other brands but it worked for me.
 
Thanks for the tip on AmmoMan. I don't think you could reload as cheaply as you could buy from this site.
 
hilltopper said:
Thanks for the tip on AmmoMan. I don't think you could reload as cheaply as you could buy from this site.
Click to expand...

You absolutely can. Ammo man has Wolf for $249 per 1000... BEFORE shipping. Let's figure each round will cost you 27 cents per round.

For "just shootin'" ammo, 1000 lead bullets run $55 to $78, depending on weight. Let's take the $78 price.

Primers, about $25 per 1000

Powder, about $18 per lb. (Let's use Winchester 231)

That totals 7.8 cents + 2.5 cents + 1.8 cents = 12.1 cents per round. (actually less, since you can get 1200 to 1500 powder charges out of that one pound of 231)

Yes, I realize that I didn't include the cost of brass, but you HAVE been saving it all this time, haven't you ? And once you have it, it's basically FREE, since you can reuse it quite a few times.

If you want to have jacketed bullets instead of the cheaper lead, that raises the price a nickel each, so you're looking at 17.1 cents per round.

One thing about reloading is that you can tailor your loads to your gun and purpose. What do you do if Wolf shoots like crap in your gun? You put up with it or buy more expensive ammo. In contrast, you can change the bullet, powder charge, or powder brand and tune it to YOUR gun.....without affecting the price much, if at all.

As for a reloading press, if you shoot a lot (or would like to) then get a Dillon 650. If you want to split the difference, then get the Dillon 550. You can always use it AS a single stage, but you cannot use a single stage as a progressive. (unless you pay a lot more money)
.
 
Ammoman prices INCLUDES SHIPPING.

I think your prices are low for reloading 45acp.
Also, you should add a couple of other costs to the calcuations:
Shipping - 1000 rounds of 45 is pretty heavy
Primers and powder requires higher than normal shipping costs.
Brass - initial purchase and then add some for the loss.
Check out http://www.natchezss.com
They had the best prices when I was reloading
45 ACP .452DIA 200GR SWCBB 500BX $48.99

I did the calculations a long time ago and the cost savings might be about 10 cents per round or about $100/1000. I don't use as much ammo as I used to; so it isn't worth my time to pick up the brass; clean it and reload it.
I agree with your other comments - taylor loads etc.
 
i second the above posts about "lee precision" equipment. they are by far the most value-based items in the reloading world. some of the parts are plastic-ish, but they will probably be very functional for you unless you're planning on reloading massive, massive quantities.


for handgun ammo you'll need:

press
dies (to fit your caliber)
shell holder (to fit caliber brass)
powder measure
scale (electronic, preferable)
reloading manual
brass
bullets
primers
powder


those are the basics. pretty simple stuff.


i recommend a single stage or turret press. stay away from the progressive-stage presses, if you're a beginner. they are horrible to set up and get the timing right--you'll spend more time pulling out stuck primers or freeing jammed brass than you will save time making bullets. using a turret press is plenty fast once you get the rhythm down, and you'll be able to check your progress every step of the way.

reloading rifle brass is more complicated, as you'll have to measure and trim your brass to length after firing. you'll need calipers (digital preferable) and a case trimmer.


over time you'll need to invest in a shell tumbler and media, for dirty brass or range brass. i don't clean my shells between firing and reloadings, although maybe i should. i've fired some of my brass up to 8 times and by now they are getting filthy enough to not fit happily in my revolver cylinders....

for handgun ammo, i have good luck with "bullseye" powder. it's dirty to shoot, but reasonably priced, reliable, and consistent. check your reloading manual for preferred powders in the caliber you're shooting.

lead bullets are always cheaper than jacketed ammo. but you run the risk of lead poisoning if you're not entirely conscious of your actions. the bullets are messier and less consistent than jacketed bullets. when i get bulk packages of lead, i end up having lead dust and lead shavings all over. when i'm loading ammo, lead residue gets all over my fingertips.


primers are primers. i've never had a problem shooting the cheapest primers i can find (usually magtech or wolf). if you're reloading for self defense or something, maybe you should consider a manufacturer that is more reputable.



always check your brass after you powder but before you load the bullet. make SURE you don't double powder your rounds, or you're in for an unpleasant surprise. bring a dal-rod to the range your first few times shooting your reloaded bullets--it's common to load a round w/o sufficient powder to discharge the bullet out of the barrel, and that'll ruin your day at the range. unless you're careful about powdering, of course.



be safe, take your time starting out, check your product every step of the way, and don't smoke!
 
Get the manuals that everybody offers---Hornady--RCBS---Lee--Lyman--etc.....

Those are good places to start for your equipment too.

Pretty sure the benchrest guys are using Redding and Forster stuff.
 
I'll second the lee loader. I bought their "starter kit" when I bought my contender. Very sturdy press and adequate scale, powder measure, etc. My next "desire" will be a digital scale and powder trickler to get my loads even more precise.

I reload because it lets me tweak and play with my loads to get them "perfect" for my gun. I shoot a 7-30 Waters in my contender and also have a .35 Rem rifle that I reload for. Since both cartridges are only available commercially with flat-nose ammo, I can customize my loads for accuracy and range with significant improvement from factory ammo.

For my rifle loads, it takes me 5-7 minutes per cartridge once I have everything laid out and adjusted so I'm not saving any money, tho if I figure in my time.

If you shoot at a range, ask around to see who else reloads, they can provide you with lots of hands-on ideas and tricks. If you are looking to experiment, you can always find someone who shoots the same caliber bullet to help share the costs of trying different bullet styles and weights.

J-
 
dextersp1 said:
Ammoman prices INCLUDES SHIPPING.

I think your prices are low for reloading 45acp.
Also, you should add a couple of other costs to the calcuations:
Shipping - 1000 rounds of 45 is pretty heavy
Primers and powder requires higher than normal shipping costs.
Brass - initial purchase and then add some for the loss.
Click to expand...

Prices quoted are for bullets delivered or bought at the store.

Primers are at the local Sportsman's Warehouse, so no hazmat fees.

Brass, as I covered, should've been collected and saved already. If you go to public ranges, quite often you can scrounge more than you shot, minimizing cost AND loss.

I stand by my reloading cost estimate. Even adjusting for shipping being included for Ammoman, you're STILL less than 1/2 that cost.

.
 
The thing about a single stage press is, once you get the hang of it, what will you do after those first 30 minutes ?

I'll tell you........kick yourself for not buying a Dillon progressive !

But, then again, it all comes down to "how much do you shoot?"

If you shoot 500 rds a YEAR, then a single stage will be just fine. If, on the other hand, you shoot 500 rds a MONTH (or more) then a good progressive is the way to go, especially for handgun ammo.

My Dillon 650 can crank out 1000 rounds per hour (rph) but I have to WANT to keep up that pace for that long. Slowing down to a "comfortable steady" pace, it'll do 600-800 rph.

So, every 4-5 minutes, I have 100 rds ready to go.

.
 
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