An Old Axe Head I'm Working On.

JM2

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I plan to refurbish this old axe head, bringing it back into service. This was given to me by a friend and he said it was his father's, and most likely his grandfather's. Obviously someone has used it for a splitting wedge, unfortunately, so I'll have to some work to clean up the pole.

I'll update this thread with the progress as I undertake this project. Part of the reason for this undertaking is that I hate to see a good tool get into this state of disrepair, and partly it's because I need a good axe.

My research shows it's most likely a later model Kelly Woodslasher. Can anyone comment on this? I've not cleaned it yet; the only visible markings are A17.

The chip is substantial, and so is the damage at the top of the cutting edge. I will reprofile the edge to remove the chip, and then remove material on the cheeks to keep the edge thin. Does anyone know how deep the hardened bit goes?

Thanks for looking and joining me along this refurbishment journey.

 
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It's surely a Woodslasher. The big chip is a clean chip from hitting a rock and is not indicative of a bad heat treat. There is enough steel to bring it back into shape but just barely. Honestly, I'd put my efforts into some other axe.

The red line indicates how much steel you need to remove (without damaging the heat treat). The green line is probably close to how much tempered steel you have left on that axe.
chipped%20axe2.jpg
 
That's definitely a later woodslasher.
They got a little more roughly finished towards the end but still had everything right where it counts , good steel and overall just great affordable axes.


Personally I would probably just take the bit back then sharpen and call it good, I don't think it'll ever be that great of a chopper again but should make a great kindling axe.
 
Thanks for the replies.

This is the only head I have to tinker on, and I dont have a full sized axe currently. Both of those are factors in my decision to try to refurbish this axe. I have a mess of poplar trees I'm felling for a small cabin, and I'm hoping this will help in the endeavor. I guess if it doesn't work so well for felling, it'll be on firewood duty.
 
If you scour off the paint and soak it overnight in white vinegar (which also works for removing the rust) the hardened portion will be noticeably darker than the rest and you'll have a clear line as to how much hardened blade you have left. Google image search "vinegar soaked axe" and if you scroll through the pics you'll see a few where the axe has just come out of the bath and you can see it quite clearly.
 
If you scour off the paint and soak it overnight in white vinegar (which also works for removing the rust) the hardened portion will be noticeably darker than the rest and you'll have a clear line as to how much hardened blade you have left. Google image search "vinegar soaked axe" and if you scroll through the pics you'll see a few where the axe has just come out of the bath and you can see it quite clearly.
Thanks, that’s a neat trick.
 
Normally I'd put a head for refurb in an electrolysis bath but with that much damage the white vinegar bath is less effort. Kelly was a great company way back when, hopefully you can save 'er.
 
I have a Kelly perfect with a similar notch out of the edge. Is there any way to build it back (weld) and reprofile it? Thanks, Dog

It's possible to re-steel axes but is USUALLY more effort than it's worth unless you already possess the tools/skills and have the time to spare.
 
I have a Kelly perfect with a similar notch out of the edge. Is there any way to build it back (weld) and reprofile it? Thanks, Dog
You could fill the notch with a puddle weld and grind it back to shape. The problem would be that the heat of the weld would ruin the heat treat of the axe. And if you were to re-heat treat it then the weld metal would react differently than the original steel during the process. In short, re-steeling an axe is an all or nothing project.
 
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