And such, Photo Albums

[sheathmaker]

I really don't do much other than knife sheaths of all types, but occasionally a good friend will ask for something I "used to do". These three photo albums are examples of that. They are 7/8oz fully lined with 2/3 and are three ring 1 1/2 inch rings. Wickett and Craig, of course. Full open they are 24"X 11 3/4". It's been a long time since I carved anything and now it's going to be even longer. The swivel knife is getting to be a chore for these old hands.

Paul

 

[Salolan]

Thank you Paul, I always enjoy looking at your work.
A question if you don't mind. Is the leather wrapping a book frame or is it just the lined leather with the 3 ring riveted to the lining? Also, would you have any objections to me trying something similar time permitting?
Thanks,
Chris

 

[sheathmaker]

I'd be glad if you did give it a try. I'll give you a couple of tips to smooth out the road.

Dimensions of finished album are 24" wide by 11 3/4 deep for 8 1/2" X 11" album pages. consisting of an outside piece of 7/8 oz and an inside liner of 2/3oz., and a spine 1 1/2" by 11 1/2" out of the 7/8. The spine is cut shorter so it will come almost to the edge top and bottom….but not quite. Don't want it to show a lot. I used a standard 1 1/2" ring three ring binder and if you don't have them I have plenty and can mail you one or more. (you will destroy the functioning part if you try to drill one out of an existing binder.)

Lay out your pattern on the 2/3oz. so your reference lines (which are super lightly drawn) will be handy and not interfere with the carving/tooling on the front. Lay out the 24" X 11/34" rectangle on the liner. Mark these lines so you can see them easily. Then go back an lightly put in your reference lines…. a vertical line at 12" dead center, then a line 3/4" on EACH SIDE of the center line. This is your reference for the 1 1/2" spine and give you the glue line. Then a second set of lines 1/4" outside the spine lines (or 1" from the center line) this is your "fold line" on each side of the 2" center section

Block cut the 2/3oz liner about 1/4" outside the pattern lines, then block cut the 7/8oz. slightly larger than that and cement the two flesh to flesh. Now when you cut the final pattern lines all your edges will be sooth and square. Cut the spine 1 1/2" X 11 1/2" and skive about 3/4" of each end to zero so when it it glued down it will lays nice and flat and not be noticed. Don't put it in just yet.

Do your decorative work of choice on the front and then groove at about 1/4" all the way around the album for stitching. Now cement the spine in place, then stitch. The stitch will catch just the very edge of the spine like about 1/16" (For borders on the front and back I use 1" top, bottom and outside and 1/14" from the 2" fold line for the spine side border.)

The ring device is secured using two decorative Chicago screws. (through all layers, front, liner and spine piece) You may have to get a couple of 1/2" 8/32 screws and modify the length to get a perfect fit on this thickness.

Burnish, finish and smile!

Good luck!! Call me if you need to.

Paul

 

[Salolan]

Thank you Paul!
I am surprised by the advice to glue the 2 sides together prior to tooling. This doesn't mar or bruise the inside?
Do you groove or crease the fold lines on the inside? Do you do the quilt pattern with a stamp or a knife?
Thanks,
Chris

 

[gregorio]

Thanks for sharing, those are a great idea.

 

[sheathmaker]

Thank you Paul!
I am surprised by the advice to glue the 2 sides together prior to tooling. This doesn't mar or bruise the inside?
Do you groove or crease the fold lines on the inside? Do you do the quilt pattern with a stamp or a knife?
Thanks,
Chris

Chris, there is a shadow of the exterior tooling in the inside, but it's insignificant and doesn't detract. and once the album is opened the pages cover the inside from view mostly.

The two fold lines are heavily creased using a ruler and medium ball stylus. It guides the fold quite nicely. I have also used a groover prior to lining in the past. Just run the two groove lines and then put the lining in over them. The heavy creasing seems to work just as well.

The quilt pattern is laid out using a ruler and stylus and then cut the lines with a swivel knife and bevel both sides.

Paul

 

[Salolan]

I hope it is okay, but thought I might piggyback Paul's thread instead of starting another.
I finished up my photo album, all that is left is to add a bit of neatsfoot oil.

I can certainly see some flaws but I am undoubtedly getting better with this leather stuff. Laying out the quilted pattern took some time and I was nearly finished when I realized I should have just used the width of the ruler as my spacing. *Bonus* I messed up the pattern a bit on the back, see if you can spot it!
Still getting the hang of using the swivel knife, but it wasn't nearly as troublesome as the stitching. I'll not likely being saddle stitching another one of these anytime in the near future. Like a fool I did it in a single stitch instead of multiple, shorter stitches. I had over 10 yards of thread when I started. I think if I do any more without the help of a machine, I'll likely stitch in the spine and maybe try and use some rivets to keep the layers from separating.
Thoughts, comments and critiques always appreciated.
Thanks for looking,
Chris

 

[vilePossum]

wow, great work, i am really impressed.
about the "flaw", not sure if that's it, but the lines don't seem to align properly on the back. it seems like you changed the spacing on the top once and then changed the spacing between the lines back again further down on the right side. left and bottom side have even spacings, as does the front.

 

[Salolan]

Thanks vP!
You got it. I got off on the spacing on the last 2 lines on the top left and the bottom right on the back.

Chris

 

[sheathmaker]

Looks good! Can't see the error on the back in that photo size. Also a shot of the inside would help as far as critique goes. I would have either put the Oak leaves on all four corners (blank lower right if initials or brand was to be used), or upper right and lower left if only two were preferred.

As you noted the ruler width is the best way to space the quilt.

You might enlist the aid via contract work from your local shoe repairman or someone else proficient, to do the machine stitching when an Album is complete. My advice is NEVER EVER yield to the notion of holding something that good looking together with Rivets!!! In fact I only use rivets anywhere on anything as an absolute last resort and I rarely (if ever) find that necessary. In fact, I even use decorative head Chicago screws to hold the rings in place in stead of the plain head style. (Weaver Leather)

Edit to add: Still not sure because of the small photo, but did you forget to put the seed at the quilt intersections on the back? Is that your error? If so that can be easily fixed IF the final finish has not yet been applied even it it has been treated with Neatsfoot, Just lightly dampen the entire back and then put your dots in. You may have to use the edge of the table to get to the area close to the spine with the front side hanging off the table. The seeder is a sharp enough stamp that ti will give you a deep impression with very little striking force.

Paul

 

[Salolan]

My advice is NEVER EVER yield to the notion of holding something that good looking together with Rivets!!!
Paul

I know, I despise rivets as well and though it sickened me to have the thought, I had just finished a 3 hour hand stitch. The project was on my mind even while out mowing this afternoon. Do you think I would have issues with the layers separating on future projects if I stitched a couple inches up each corner and across the spine an inch or so past the folds? I even thought a person could do overlays on the front corners in that small stitch area.
I thought about doing leaves in all 4 corners but wanted to separate the design from yours to an extent. I never even thought about doing the leaves diagonal, though I am sure it would look better.
I did use the seeder on the back as well. Question. Do you cut the lines from one end to the other and just add the seeder at the intersections? Or do you use the seeder in the intersections and cut between? Right or wrong, I did the latter.
Here are some photos I took after applying the neatsfoot. I left them a bit larger so hopefully the details show better.

I did use the stitch groover on the inside as well, excluding the spine which I left proud.

Thanks for looking,
Chris

 

[sheathmaker]

Well, your perceived error is so minimal that it not noticeable. I believe a no leather craftsman would never notice without being invited to look for it. I did not. It looks and displays well!

I make the quilt cuts in one long cut and then bevel both sides of the lines and then add the seeder. Be careful cutting the lines because a long cut with a swivel knife plus a novice with a swivel knife equals curvy lines. If you make just short cuts between the intersections it can get a slightly disjointed look. When I lay out the quilt pattern with the ruler and stylus, I go very deeply with the stylus. This creates a furrow which helps guide the swivel knife in a straight line.

Regarding the stitching, if you are using good quality contact cement applied properly I don't think it would ever separate unless it was exposed to some really harsh and wet conditions, which any album would probably not be. The stitching on mine is 98% aesthetic and 2% necessary. It just looks better stitched, but on this particular item I don't think stitching makes that much difference.

Paul

 

[Salolan]

Thanks Paul.
Do you plan on attending the International Custom Cutlery Expo in September? If so I would relish the opportunity to shake your hand and maybe visit a bit.

Chris

 

[Horsewright]

Chris I really like your album here. Very nice work.

 

[sheathmaker]

Thanks Paul.
Do you plan on attending the International Custom Cutlery Expo in September? If so I would relish the opportunity to shake your hand and maybe visit a bit.

Chris

I have been considering it seriously, but it's still not certain for sure.

Paul