- Joined
- Dec 27, 2004
- Messages
- 2,270
Thought I'd share a quick n dirty method for adjusting the angle on the EP to accomodate the difference in thickness between stones.
First, realize that in most cases, this is not necessary. The difference between a stone blank and a brand new mounted stone is only about .75 deg., so most of the time it's not an issue.
But, if there is a big difference, especially now with the introduction of other stones, here's a quick way of doing it without measuring, or remarking the bevel between stones. This only adds a few seconds to the stone change.
All I used for this was a simple paper clamp. (I'm sure someone will have find something that works better... but this works). This works for the Apex or the Pro model. Refer to the appropriate photo, to hopefully help the directions make sense.
For the Apex: set the angle you want to sharpen at. Attach the clamp to the angle rod. Hold a stone under the base of the pivot. Now slide the clamp up so that it's underneath the stone. Once this is done, you won't move the clamp again. Now, to adjust between stones, loosen the screw on the pivot, move it up (out of the way), put the next stone you want to use on top of the clamp, lower the pivot until it's resting on the stone, tighten the screw, and put the stone in the EP. The angle will now match the original set angle.
On the Pro: Since the angle rod moves, the clamp will work in relation to the base. Set the angle you want to sharpen at. Set the stone on the base (see photo) and slide the clamp into place. Again you'll never move the clamp again. Now to change the angle between stones, loosen the screw and raise the angle rod, put the new stone on the base and lower until the clamp hits. Tighten the screw, put the stone in the EP, and you're all set.
Optional tips: If you use your final stone to set the angle, when you get to that stone, you'll be right on the mark. Also if your clamp slides, add a piece of rubber or non-skid pad between the clamp and arm.
Kinda tough to explain, but if you look at the photo, and with an EP in front of you.... it should all make sense. This will hit most of the angles, if you want to hit the lowest, you can find something thinner, or use the relationship between the table and the pivot.
cbw
First, realize that in most cases, this is not necessary. The difference between a stone blank and a brand new mounted stone is only about .75 deg., so most of the time it's not an issue.
But, if there is a big difference, especially now with the introduction of other stones, here's a quick way of doing it without measuring, or remarking the bevel between stones. This only adds a few seconds to the stone change.
All I used for this was a simple paper clamp. (I'm sure someone will have find something that works better... but this works). This works for the Apex or the Pro model. Refer to the appropriate photo, to hopefully help the directions make sense.
For the Apex: set the angle you want to sharpen at. Attach the clamp to the angle rod. Hold a stone under the base of the pivot. Now slide the clamp up so that it's underneath the stone. Once this is done, you won't move the clamp again. Now, to adjust between stones, loosen the screw on the pivot, move it up (out of the way), put the next stone you want to use on top of the clamp, lower the pivot until it's resting on the stone, tighten the screw, and put the stone in the EP. The angle will now match the original set angle.
On the Pro: Since the angle rod moves, the clamp will work in relation to the base. Set the angle you want to sharpen at. Set the stone on the base (see photo) and slide the clamp into place. Again you'll never move the clamp again. Now to change the angle between stones, loosen the screw and raise the angle rod, put the new stone on the base and lower until the clamp hits. Tighten the screw, put the stone in the EP, and you're all set.
Optional tips: If you use your final stone to set the angle, when you get to that stone, you'll be right on the mark. Also if your clamp slides, add a piece of rubber or non-skid pad between the clamp and arm.
Kinda tough to explain, but if you look at the photo, and with an EP in front of you.... it should all make sense. This will hit most of the angles, if you want to hit the lowest, you can find something thinner, or use the relationship between the table and the pivot.
cbw