Angle cube ? with Edge Pro

Joined
May 23, 2012
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192
Fed Ex just dropped off my new Edge Apex Pro. I have a question on how the heck do you use the angle cube with it? I'm not getting it. Any help would be great.
 
[video=youtube;WDsFi5os1LI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDsFi5os1LI[/video]
 
Did you get the drill stop collar as well? Without that, the angle cube doesn't work as intended if you have stones of varying height. I've also found that MadRookie's video is backward for the Edge Pro Apex (he uses the Edge Pro Professional in the video). With the Apex, place the stone on top of the stop collar instead of under it, and adjust the stone arm up/down instead of moving the base (like the Professional does).
 
I think an angle cube will work without the stop collar, calibrate for table angle, find whatever degree you want for every stone, faster with stop collar though.
 
I have the stop collar. The collar has a fixed 0 angle. The only angle that changes is when you adjust the height of the pivot. So do you put the cube on the arm? If so then your getting like 5 degrees at the "21 degree mark". Not sure Where it would be used? I totally get the stop collar and understand what that is for. I don't know what to due with the angle cube. I have the Full monty kit from Chef knifes to go.
 
I have the stop collar. The collar has a fixed 0 angle. The only angle that changes is when you adjust the height of the pivot. So do you put the cube on the arm? If so then your getting like 5 degrees at the "21 degree mark". Not sure Where it would be used? I totally get the stop collar and understand what that is for. I don't know what to due with the angle cube. I have the Full monty kit from Chef knifes to go.

Place the cube on the blade table and zero it. Then place it on the stone arm and you read the angle of the arm relative to the blade table.
 
I have the stop collar. The collar has a fixed 0 angle. The only angle that changes is when you adjust the height of the pivot. So do you put the cube on the arm? If so then your getting like 5 degrees at the "21 degree mark". Not sure Where it would be used? I totally get the stop collar and understand what that is for. I don't know what to due with the angle cube. I have the Full monty kit from Chef knifes to go.

Place the cube on the blade when it is on the table and zero it. Then place it on the stone arm and you read the angle of the arm relative to the blade.

Fixed.
 
If you hold the knife properly, the edge will be parallel to the edge of the blade table. so place the angle cube on the BLADE TABLE to zero it, then on the stone arm.

Go back and watch the video again.
 
If you hold the knife properly, the edge will be parallel to the edge of the blade table. so place the angle cube on the BLADE TABLE to zero it, then on the stone arm.

Go back and watch the video again.

I'd still put it on the blade. Especially in the case of a full flat ground blade.

Either way, so long as you understand the concept, whichever way you choose it's just preference.
 
I think an angle cube will work without the stop collar, calibrate for table angle, find whatever degree you want for every stone, faster with stop collar though.

Is not always the case. If the knife is laying flat parallel to the table yes. If it is a full flat grind, the maybe no. I find it is best to put the knife on the table, then zero the cube on the knife. Put the arm with the stone on the knife, place cube on rear surface of the stone and then set the angle. Really no need for the collar just redo for every stone, takes a few seconds. This is probably the most accurite way.
 
Is not always the case. If the knife is laying flat parallel to the table yes. If it is a full flat grind, the maybe no. I find it is best to put the knife on the table, then zero the cube on the knife. Put the arm with the stone on the knife, place cube on rear surface of the stone and then set the angle. Really no need for the collar just redo for every stone, takes a few seconds. This is probably the most accurite way.

It is accurate only if you are capable of holding the cube on the very cutting edge of the knife. you would need some kind of fairly powerful optics for that.

you're over thinking this.

The procedure in the video is fast, easy and accurate.
 
It is accurate only if you are capable of holding the cube on the very cutting edge of the knife. you would need some kind of fairly powerful optics for that.

you're over thinking this.

The procedure in the video is fast, easy and accurate.
Sorry Ben i over think everything. Wouldnt i want the angle set to the blade as it lays flat on the table?
And yes i do over think this, as also to the angle changing to the distal of the blade to the point.I am very open to any feedback on this, help,
Thanks,
Mike
 
You make a good point, I was thinking of the average 'tactical' knife and not FFG. You are correct that a FFG blade should be the base for the cube while on the table.
 
Sorry Ben i over think everything. Wouldnt i want the angle set to the blade as it lays flat on the table?
And yes i do over think this, as also to the angle changing to the distal of the blade to the point.I am very open to any feedback on this, help,
Thanks,
Mike

Mike, if you are trying to get an exact angle, i.e. EXACTLY 15.0 degrees, then you are correct. The cube and stone would need to be placed exactly on the edge bevel.

If you're looking for a fast, completely repeatable angle the method in the video works quite well.

I use the video method, because it's fast, and absolutely repeatable. My FFG knives profiled and sharpened at 15 degrees, may actually be 15.45 or some other minor variation if measured with a laser inclinometer. OTOH, every time I sharpen them, they are sharpened to exactly the same angle as the previous sharpening, which makes it fairly easy to get straight razor sharp and mirror polished.

And believe me, you're not alone in over thinking things here. I'm just as bad , or even worse! ;)
 
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