Angles

Joined
Feb 3, 2010
Messages
296
As I am now the proud owner of five FF knives, and I want to keep them as sharp as possible, I am inquiring as to the factory edge angles for the various models.
I have a Wicked Edge sharpener and I have NO interest in profiling a different edge angle. And those who own a Wicked Edge will know, the exact angle can be set up easily with the assistance of an angle cube.
If FF would provide this information I believe it would be very helpful to all owners who want to go beyond free hand sharpening (which I also do on a regular basis, as I have for years with my other knives).
The angle information could then be posted as a "Sticky" on the Forum.
 
Winger,
Andy does all sharpening by hand, so AFIK, he has never published angles so to speak, since there is some variation between every knife he does. Many of us here with WEPS do 18-20DPS convex. This provides a fair amount of steel behind the edge for most woods bumming activities and still keeps the knife plenty slicey. For knives that see heavy use, I personally do a steep convex hybrid edge at 20DPS flat, then hand convex on a strop. Your mileage may vary but if you do a quick search, several of us have posted more detailed info in the past ;)
 
What wjt said, I will second. I have done some experimenting with some V edges on the WE, ind I do not recommend going under 16 dps in 01 steel. I have noticed edge rolling with only moderate use under 16 dps. However, 16 dps performed well for me on EDC knives where I am not using them really hard, but I use them frequently.

I have taken CPM 154 to 15 dps routinely with no problems. Keep in mind I am talking 3 to 4 inch blades without hard use. If hard thumping is involved, I typically convex as Will describes.
 
What wjt said, I will second. I have done some experimenting with some V edges on the WE, ind I do not recommend going under 16 dps in 01 steel. I have noticed edge rolling with only moderate use under 16 dps. However, 16 dps performed well for me on EDC knives where I am not using them really hard, but I use them frequently.

I have taken CPM 154 to 15 dps routinely with no problems. Keep in mind I am talking 3 to 4 inch blades without hard use. If hard thumping is involved, I typically convex as Will describes.
 
Man, guys, I'm feeling like a caveman. Most Fiddlebacks, I just strop with green and never need anything else! Some (very few) I have convexed the edge with wet/dry fine sandpaper and then stropped. I keep my knives scary sharp. Am I sharpening like a caveman????

-Will
 
I've batoned a sneaky through a 3 inch tree, that's about as hard as I've used a knife. Other than that, just food prep, tristicks, and rope cutting. I've never had to do anything other than strop to get it back to shaving sharp. I did by an asp from a forum member that was incredibly dull, it wouldn't slice paper. I swiped it on a DMT stone a few times then stropped it. Maybe I'm not beating my knives hard enough!
 
I've used the heck out of MANY Fiddlebacks, in the woods, on the river, in the kitchen and in the daily grind, however I have never batoned one. I have batoned a lesser production knife, just to be familiar with the task. I know my Fiddlebacks can and will do it, but.... Cutting food on a plate seems to do more damage to a Fiddleback edge than bone, tough scales, wood (hard wood) or anything else I have run into. But..... if I can get a better edge with a WE, I might have to make some changes!
 
Man, guys, I'm feeling like a caveman. Most Fiddlebacks, I just strop with green and never need anything else! Some (very few) I have convexed the edge with wet/dry fine sandpaper and then stropped. I keep my knives scary sharp. Am I sharpening like a caveman????

-Will

Thats how I do it too. And what you said about plates is true. Wow, totaly flattens the edge.
 
Thats how I do it too. And what you said about plates is true. Wow, totaly flattens the edge.

Found this out at dinner a few nights ago with my new 1/8" hiking buddy. Took a little work, but it's back to sharp again. I'll stick to a cutting board from now on - or paper plates.
To the OP: I used the sharpmaker back bevel(30degree inclusive, I think), then a strop on this one with great results.
 
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Just to close the loop -- the OP had asked about the WE; I too strop about 85% of the time and reserve the WE for re-profiling 2nd hand knives or making things ludicrously sharp (similar to ludicrous speed ;)). As many have mentioned in the past, a good leather over wood strop will serve you right the vast majority of the time -- I had a 4 x sided strop built, so I could play with a few more compounds for greater flexibility in edge repair. In the end, you cannot go wrong with any of the aforementioned recommendations :thumbup: -- croc sticks? Used 'em & they work! sharpmaker? Used it & it works! WEPS? See above! DMT? See above! you get the idea. 01 is pretty darn forgiving and super easy to sharpen. YMMV, but use what you like!
 
Very cool, thanks for the advice, Will... I was just afraid I was missing out on better ways to sharpen!
 
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