Annealing problems

M

MarkFromUtah

Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Messages
5
I use various types of sawblade steel for most of my knives. I came across a circular sawblade recently that I cut a test strip from, and tried annealing it. I took it up to just past non-magnetic and left it in the insulated oven overnight. This usually works with all the other steels I have used. But it still comes out so hard I break drill bits trying to drill it. Should I try a lower annealing temperature? Or does it need to cool more slowly than just leaving it in the oven? I've never had to use ashes or vermiculite before, so I just need some pointers on getting this stubborn steel soft enough to work with.
 
I wonder what that is ?? You could try a subcritical anneal, 1000-1200F for about 4 hours. That will give you a spheroidized annealed structure.
 
I also have a commercial circular saw blade. Could someone give me instructions on how to anneal this?? I'm assuming that I should do something different than what Mete just described. And then after annealing how should I Heat treat and temper? (I don't have a heat treat oven). Thanks! :)

~Brian
 
Mete - Yeah, it's really hard stuff. It's a circular saw blade about 18" in diameter, and as far as I know, it's from a metal-cutting machine. I did fine with the grinding on my belt grinder, but after 3 attempts at annealing, I still can't drill holes for pins! It should make a great blade if I can figure out its properties. I'll try your spheroidizing idea. Thanks. Of course, with my oven at 4 hours that will double my electrical bill for the month... :D

Jaegar - Since you don't have an oven, you have a couple of options. I'm only a slightly advanced amateur, but I'll tell you what I think. One is to cut your knife blank out of the material using an angle grinder with a cutting disc, then take it to your grinder and "cold grind" the bevels on carefully, dunking it in water every couple of passes to keep it cool and not lose the hardness. When it's done, you can selectively temper it by color using a propane torch to soften the back and the tang. Since you probably won't be able to drill it for handle pins and a full tang, I'd make a stick tang and epoxy it into a handle. I started out that way before I had an oven. Or, you can build a simple forge with an old hair dryer and coal to do your heat treating. You can find plans all over the 'net for that type of thing.
 
I've (carefully) cut a slot for a full tang in High Speed Steel with the angle grinder and 1/8 cutting disk. You have to stick with smaller diameter pins and fill in the rest of the slot with epoxy when the scales go on, but don't have to a anneal and re-treat an unknown steel. Hardness of the saw blades I've been using as blade stock - I dunno but they "pop" the teeth off a bimetal hacksaw blade if you try to cut it...
 
Yes ,annealing steels in the class of M2 is different .After all some have cobalt to make them hard even when red hot !! When I saw the metal cutting comment I thought it's probably something like M2. He should try the subcritical anneal first and see if it helps. Mystery steels can be fun !!
 
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