Anodized Sebenza

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Jan 31, 2012
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Anyone have any photos of a Sebenza that has been anodized green? I see that you have to run 100 volts for this to happen and from what I have search and found on the forum in order to get it that high you need a really expensive set up.

I think that green color looks really great though!
 
I too like the green colour one can get with anodising Ti and would actually prefer that to the blue we see as standard. I have never seen it on a CRK but it does look good on the many knives and other items I have seen. Even just a green thumb stud and spacer would be pretty sweet I think. :):thumbup:
 
It's not green anymore, but my Large Insingo was at one point

1uJHs.jpg



My setup wasn't expensive.
 
I too like the green colour one can get with anodising Ti and would actually prefer that to the blue we see as standard. I have never seen it on a CRK but it does look good on the many knives and other items I have seen. Even just a green thumb stud and spacer would be pretty sweet I think. :):thumbup:

Yea a green thumb and spacer would be pretty awesome! I really like the blue but it would be awesome if you could select green as an alternative

It's not green anymore, but my Large Insingo was at one point

1uJHs.jpg



My setup wasn't expensive.

I can't really tell but was it the color green shown in this picture?

30j2nh0.jpg


From what I read a setup that is able to run the needed 100 volts was close to $400.
!
 
100volts is the only place I know of that'll give green. It could be a few volts different but around there.

That one looks brighter because the surface is satin. Any voltage on a sandblasted piece will look darker than the same voltage on a satin/mirror finish piece.

Mine was like $30-$40 all inclusive to piece together IIRC (been awhile). The one Daniel Fairly uses is like $130 (and digital--so a lot nicer) and will do green/100 volts. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/964002-Just-ordered-an-Anodizer!
 
It's not green anymore, but my Large Insingo was at one point

My setup wasn't expensive.

Nice work!

Try cleaning it with windex to return it to all green if you want, on that shade of green oil from your hands will discolor it.

If you go a shade lighter or (maybe) darker it will change the wavelength you see and give you a more solid green that won't discolor from oil as much if you want that. It is hard to tell from a photo. The purple/green effect you have is very cool!

100volts is the only place I know of that'll give green. It could be a few volts different but around there.

That one looks brighter because the surface is satin. Any voltage on a sandblasted piece will look darker than the same voltage on a satin/mirror finish piece.

Mine was like $30-$40 all inclusive to piece together IIRC (been awhile). The one Daniel Fairly uses is like $130 (and digital--so a lot nicer) and will do green/100 volts. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/964002-Just-ordered-an-Anodizer!

Good tips. I agree, rough finish is better for anodizing, the increased surface area makes the color pop.

I'm really happy with the anodizer too, it is a lot of fun to use. I get green at only 90 volts but everyone's setup will vary.


I think the reason you do not see green a lot is because it is by far the hardest color to get. I have to clean everything multiple times and the prep process is very time consuming. The color has to do with the finish, voltage, time, electrolyte, water quality, anode surface area, etc... lots of room for error.


edit - I just realized this was on the CRK forum, BIG respect to CRK!
 
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Well I guess I will need to start looking around and finding a way to really get that deep green!
 
It's not a sebenza but you have to admit the green looks awesome. John Grimsmo Norseman
photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpgphoto 3.jpg
 
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pictures don't really do it justice, they did a fantastic job with the anodizing. Don't knock it till you've tried it, smoothest knife I have ever owned.
 
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