Anodizing Umnumzaan-removal of lock bar stabilizer?

Gburgs · Jan 3, 2015

I'm doing some mod work to an Umnummzaan and need figure out a way to cover or remove the lock bar stabilizer. Any methods out there other than nail polish? It's going to be difficult to cover it all with polish and because of its positioning I don't have a chance at covering all of it.

Would appreciate your ideas or experience.

Thanks!
Greg

nyefmaker · Jan 3, 2015

The lbs is pressed in, so I would not recommend removing it.

Gburgs · Jan 3, 2015

It goes all the way through the lock at so I thought there was a chance it was screwed in.

Bummer

Nail polish is gonna be a bitch

nyefmaker said:
The lbs is pressed in, so I would not recommend removing it.

Zeta33 · Jan 3, 2015

Gburgs said:
I'm doing some mod work to an Umnummzaan and need figure out a way to cover or remove the lock bar stabilizer. Any methods out there other than nail polish? It's going to be difficult to cover it all with polish and because of its positioning I don't have a chance at covering all of it.

Would appreciate your ideas or experience.

Thanks!
Greg

Where did you buy the Sebenza in your avatar?

I've anodized several Zaans, you don't need to remove the stabilizer. It'd make life easier, but for uniform colors, you just need to adjust the voltage upwards to compensate for the stabilizer sucking away some power.

The Aflac Duck · Jan 3, 2015

The stabilizer isn't Ti, so it won't anodize anyways.

Zeta33 · Jan 3, 2015

Blues Bender said:
The stabilizer isn't Ti, so it won't anodize anyways.

That probably isn't the concern as much as having a non Ti piece touching the Ti work piece (lock side scale). It makes the Ti harder to color evenly, and in some cases the stabilizer can also be corroded by electrolytic corrosion in the anodizing process. There are a lot of factors in play on the corrosion side of things, but the Zaans I've done suffered no issues, so no worries there either unless you're using too much TSP, or something corrosive to anodize like white vinegar or something.

Gburgs · Jan 4, 2015

Quite a bit of trial and error but I'm getting there. Lower voltages aren't bad but if you don't have that stabilizer completely covered, eventually the polish gives way and you've got alkaseltzer in your anodizing tank!

I polished and anodized the sebenza in my avatar. Pic suck but it turned out amazing. I've got a pretty damn good camera on the way so I'll post some better pics next week.

Zeta33 said:
Where did you buy the Sebenza in your avatar?

I've anodized several Zaans, you don't need to remove the stabilizer. It'd make life easier, but for uniform colors, you just need to adjust the voltage upwards to compensate for the stabilizer sucking away some power.

Gburgs · Jan 4, 2015

Exactly

Zeta33 said:
That probably isn't the concern as much as having a non Ti piece touching the Ti work piece (lock side scale). It makes the Ti harder to color evenly, and in some cases the stabilizer can also be corroded by electrolytic corrosion in the anodizing process. There are a lot of factors in play on the corrosion side of things, but the Zaans I've done suffered no issues, so no worries there either unless you're using too much TSP, or something corrosive to anodize like white vinegar or something.

Zeta33 · Jan 4, 2015

Gburgs said:
Quite a bit of trial and error but I'm getting there. Lower voltages aren't bad but if you don't have that stabilizer completely covered, eventually the polish gives way and you've got alkaseltzer in your anodizing tank!

I polished and anodized the sebenza in my avatar. Pic suck but it turned out amazing. I've got a pretty damn good camera on the way so I'll post some better pics next week.

For a second I could've sworn that Sebenza was my first. You do it at about 32v? Add your stuff to my thread below, if you'd like to.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1223612-Anodized-Chris-Reeve-Knives/page3

Gburgs · Jan 4, 2015

26.4 if I remember right.
Most of the bead blast is gone so it didn't take as much voltage to hit the blue I was looking for. Tried to match the thumbstud and in person, it's pretty close.

Thanks for the link! I'll check it out.

Zeta33 said:
For a second I could've sworn that Sebenza was my first. You do it at about 32v? Add your stuff to my thread below, if you'd like to.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1223612-Anodized-Chris-Reeve-Knives/page3

Stainz · Jan 6, 2015

That reminds me.... I think the Mona Lisa could use a nice gloss poly coat... One man's art is another man's yard sale find!

Remind me to not loan you guys my StarTac 'zaan! Forgive me - I have the crud - and feel old today!

Stainz

Zeta33 · Jan 6, 2015

Stainz said:
That reminds me.... I think the Mona Lisa could use a nice gloss poly coat... One man's art is another man's yard sale find!

Remind me to not loan you guys my StarTac 'zaan! Forgive me - I have the crud - and feel old today!

Stainz

What's your problem exactly? You know you can remove anodizing without affecting the blasted finish, right?

Nevermind, could not care less about your response. You're clearly just one of those jerks that flies into someones thread to insult them and then be on their way.