Anodizing Undone

sextant

sextant

Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
935
I've seen a couple of anodized knives around - does anybody know if this can be undone without harming an inlay?
I have a nice numbered Mnandi that got blued sometime along the way

 
Since it's an oxide layer, it will have to be either polished off or used. It's an electrochemical process to anodize titanium.
 
Whink rust stain remover will do the trick but there is a good bit of safety involved due to it containing hydroflouric acid. I'm pretty sure it would FUBAR your inlays too. I'm sorry it's not very helpful but something to think about.
 
A few options.

You can pay CRK to put back, its like 35 bucks.

Whinks will work, but it is a VERY strong acid. There is a chance it might mess up the inlay, either the adhesive or the color of the wood.

If you want to DIY, I recommend Multi-Etch. It is the recommended acid used by anodizers and it is very mild when used and mixed properly. But Multi-Etch is more expensive than paying CRK to do it.

Either of those two methods will only remove the anodizing. If you want to go back to CRK grey you will need to bead blast it. If you want polished bare look, then you will need to polish it.
 
Anodizing alone does not void your CRK warranty under normal circumstances.

Since this is a numbered Mnandi I suggest you just send it to CRK. If you try stripping this ano with Whinks and mess it up, then you could risk voiding the warranty.
 
Actually, will CRK reblast a handle with a wood inlay? I know they will do micarta. Sextant, did you call them?
 
CRK will not blast a wood inlaid scale.
 
bhyde said:
CRK will not blast a wood inlaid scale.
Click to expand...

Thanks bhyde.

Sextant are you in the CRK Fanpage on Facebook? There is a member in there John Huffstickler that does incredible anodizing. He might be able to return that to factory for you. I do not know what his current workload is like, but he moderates an anodizing group and his work is extensive and he is familiar with CRK.
 
Thank you all for your answers. I don't have a facebook account but sending it to the USA is a bit expensive (and getting it back through German customs even more ;)
I know the colors change depending on voltage, time and temperature so I had hoped for an configuration for "Grey"
 
sextant said:
Thank you all for your answers. I don't have a facebook account but sending it to the USA is a bit expensive (and getting it back through German customs even more ;)
I know the colors change depending on voltage, time and temperature so I had hoped for an configuration for "Grey"
Click to expand...

Grey is not possible through anodizing. It is basically bare Titanium that has been bead blasted... the bead blasting is what makes the grey color and texture.
 
sextant said:
Thank you all for your answers. I don't have a facebook account but sending it to the USA is a bit expensive (and getting it back through German customs even more ;)
I know the colors change depending on voltage, time and temperature so I had hoped for an configuration for "Grey"
Click to expand...

The problem with that is lower voltage colors don't cover higher voltage colors. That blue will show.
 
I guess I'll have to stick with the blue tone. I wouldn't have thought of getting it undone if it wasn't a numbered Mnandi. It sure looks nice anyway:)
 
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