Anodizing ???

RDT

RDT

Joined
Dec 17, 1999
Messages
4,117
Hey folks,
Just wondering if anyone knows where I can get my hands on a decent anodizer ? Nothing real big or expensive. I know this has been discussed to death, just haven't had the time to make one myself. Buying one seems more cost efficient right now. As any time I do have will be used to make knives and not an anodizer :D Thanks for any help. Take care.....RDT
 
I bought mine from reactive metals. It is the best thing out there. You can get so many differnet colors, and I figureds I'm too poor to buy cheap so I spent the money. Basic setup is about $400.
 
I bought a dc power supply (0-126 volts ) from surplus supply center for 40 bucks plus shipping,6 bucks.I had to supply a reostat,8 bucks.Had an old enclosure laying around to put it in and it works great.Total cost 54 bucks.I just finished a chip sample board with 28 colors.
 
54 bucks that is a fantastic effort.

I don't know anything about them except I want one. I got a drawing from a site listed on this forum. But it did not drescribe the process well. What amperage do you need. how do you make the coulours
prepairation of the metal etc.If you have the circuit and some technical advice please post some details or email me if possible. reg_ellery@optusnet.com.au

there is no gap between the reg and the ellery it is an _

Thank you
 
THANKS GUYS ! You are all always very helpful. Take care.....RDT
 
Reg:

Here's a link to a dicussion I had with some other makers a while back.....


http://www.knifeforums.com/ubbthrea...r=75272&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

You might also want to check out www.reactivemetals.com :)

You don't need a fancy machine to anodize titanium. Any DC power supply (like an etching machine or even a 12 volt automotive battery charger) will usually give you a few colors.

However, if you really want to be able to control your results, you'll need more sophisticated equipment. ;)
 
I bought a variable dc power supply but I'm half scared to play with the thing. Sure would be nice to make those purty colors but I don't even need to blow something up or fry some brain cells trying. Maybe I'll save up for one of those Reactive Metals rigs.
Thanks for the link Tom!!
 
George:

The amperage is fine, but the voltage is a bit low. You'll only get up to a pale blue with 40 volts.

Of course, if you only want those colors (refer to the chart in the link), this will work fine - and, with 10 amps, you'll be able to anodize fairly big parts.

I have a Sorensen DCS 150-7. It will do all the possible colors on folder frames without any problem. ;)
 
I forgot to mention that the jacks on the front of this type of unit are for metering only. You should connect your leads to the output terminals on the back of the power supply (under the cover). ;) .

Current limiting really isn't much of an issue, since you'll probably want the colors to appear as soon as you dip them in the electrolyte. I'm not sure if really small parts would get toasted at 40 volts and 10 amps, but I doubt it.
 
Don't let the limited range of voltage bother you too much. The overlays on this one were done at 43, 28, and 20 volts! :)

howler2.jpg


You'll also get a nice range of golds and bronzes! ;)
 
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