Another axe in a knife forum thread...

Joined
Jan 10, 2010
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I had to post this here since the last time I had a thread like this.. it led to this axe. This was for a forum member who liked the last one that I made. This one was forged differently.. and frankly is the easiest method I've used for making a big axe. I used a traditional Viking method of drawing out a tang and then folding that tang back onto the blade for an 'asymmetrical' weld. This method pretty much forms the eye without having to do any drifting and it also makes a heavy poll. A high carbon bit is welded into the edge separately. A big thanks to Jim Austin for doing the research that led to resurrecting this method.

The haft was hand carved from a local piece of 'ironwood'.. the local name for hop hornbeam and was the traditional haft material for axes and such in this area. It is hard and practically throws sparks when hitting it with a chainsaw.

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Very nice, Scott. I like it a lot. I know that there are different hornbeams. This is one that I haven't worked with. I didn't realize that any had that color. I have worked with dogwood that was pink this way but all of the local hornbeam that I have worked was pretty white.

I'm curious, did you bend the handle? The grain looks like it follows the bend in the haft.

Gary

Gary
 
Gary all the hornbeam I've looked at up here is pinkish in the heartwood and white in the sap. But..as you say... there are different varieties. Although.. I did see a bow made from it from somewhere on the east coast and it was pinkish too.

As to the grain.. I split the log along the grain so as to not violate growth rings. That handle won't break.. :-)
 
Interesting.

Do you have a pic of the "eye", seen from above?

Kind regards,

Jos
 
Looks AWESOME Scott! I would really love to see a WIP thread on how this is done if you ever find yourself making another one. I've always been pretty curious about this whole process
 
Here are some of the pictures I posted in the axe forum. Jos you can see the shape of the eye in one of those pictures I believe. I cleaned it up a bit with the mandrel.. but that is basically the shape.

They basically show a bar of wrought iron that has tang drawn out leaving the blade of the axe intact. The tang is folded over on the edge of the anvil.. using the edge to leave the hard corners. I then bring the tang close to where it's going to be forge welded and flux and wire brush a couple of times to clean out scale. Then flux again and bring it up to screaming hot and hammer it home. This method works well because you are working with fairly thick iron that holds heat. The biggest reason for stuff like this failing is heat loss in thin material. After the head is welded I cut a groove along the edge with a cutoff wheel and band saw and then open with a chisel. Then a high carbon wedge is shaped and hammered in. Then just forge weld it in. That is the easiest part!

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I basically learned this from looking at Jim Austin's work here: http://forgedaxes.com/ He has a DVD.. and I recommend buying that to reduce the learning curve though...
 
Scott,
I looked at your website and didn't see any indication of the cost factor. Could send me a pm with details.
Thanx, Jeff
 
Thanks again folks...

Jeff... I'm currently re-doing my entire website. I will have a better cost breakdown on there. I do have something on my current website but it doesn't cover axes. Please contact me through email or pm and we can discuss.
 
I'm bringing this back up as the happy owner of this axe, and also because I can't currently send private messages to you Scott, as you've returned to Registered User status, so here is the PM I tried to send:

Scott,
This got here yesterday and I'm absolutely in love with it. Wonderful pitch to the handle for right-handed use, and such a nimble, useful head weight and shape. Thank you very much for your hard work on this, and letting me own an axe that I know my Grandfather would have been proud to use.

Warren Higgins
 
Great to hear! Yeah my notice got sent to spam.. will have to remedy.

Anyway... stay in touch with out how it works for you.. and if you ever get a chance.. post some pictures of using it!
 
Hey Scott, very cool, I noticed how you followed the grain in the handle too, nice job. Kudos
 
Hey Scott, very cool, I noticed how you followed the grain in the handle too, nice job. Kudos

PS. do you know if that wood was ever used as a bow wood, I'm going to host a bow making class at my shop and think that it might be a good candidate. Next question, do you know of a source to supply me with bow blanks. Anybody else know?
 
Cool stuff Scott. I missed this the first time 'round so I'm really glad to see this thread.!! Fantastic.
 
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