Another blade length question

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May 1, 2002
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43
I'm sorry to bother you guys with this one but I have to. I'm looking for something to compliment by Busse Pauls hatchet. I'm deciding between a modified dozier PGK which will have a blade length of 4.5 inches, a Busse Badger Attack 3 or the bigger Satin Jack. The SJ is giving me the most trouble because I really like the looks, but don't think I need a blade that big because I can chop with the hatchet. Between the BA3 and Dozier I don't know. They will be the same length but obviously have different capabilities. I'm worried the busse won't cut, but then I'm worried the dozier won't hold up to rougher stuff. Then again, should I just forget it and buy the bigger SJ. What do you guys think? Do you think a 6" blade is even necesary? Thanks for the help.

Nick
 
Nick,

You ask, "Do you think a 6" blade is even necesary?"
Allow me to ask, "To do what?"
Are we looking at urban/office use? Camp utility cutting? Cardboard box disposal? Self defense? Woodcrafting/woodworking? Without knowing the focus of your expected usage for the knire, any recommendations in the following opinionation are just guesstimation on my part.

In my experience, the Satin Jack doesn't chop all that well. If the hatchet chops okay for you, that's the tool to reach for when chopping chores arise. I view the SJ as pretty much a knife to only use for cutting, which it does okay. But for pure cutting, a Dozier will outcut it in terms of efficiency all day long. If you intend to use the knife for more than just cutting, the SJ's relatively poorer cutting may become an acceptable trade-off for higher durability.

My $.02 would be to get the BA3. ;) Its taller blade (spine to edge) allows it a fairly acute primary grind angle while maintaining a thin shoulder immediately above the edge. This should allow it higher cutting efficiency than the SJ, though not as high as the Dozier. Being a combat grade Busse, it will have the usual nuclear tough durability for more abusive use. Plus it has the same handle as the SJ, which you say you like the look of it.
 
If I'm outdoors, I like to carry a chopper of some sort (like you carry Paul's Hatchet), and a super-efficient cutting knife. Use the hatchet for the chopping and more abusive tasks, and grab a Dozier for the smaller work. Either that or get the Badger Attack, and then send it to somebody to have the edge ground down for better cutting efficiency.

Oh yeah. And always carry your SAK. :)
 
Sorry for the lack of detail, but he knife will be used for general outdoors use. Obviously the hatchet will be the chopper so I will need more of a cutting machine for food prep, whittling, shaving kindling etc. So far I'm leaning towards the dozier but I'm still waiting to hear from him. Other than that, the BA3 is my second choice, but do think the edge will be to thick.

RokJok: I guess the six inch blade will be used for the above mentioned tasks. It just seems that people today are more sheeple, and to be honest, I havn't really been using the big blades either and am currently going to sell them for this purchase. When I say big though I mean 7" and above. I guess I'm sort of answering my own question here about the SJ.

Buzzbait: I'm sorry to say I don't even own a SAK (I hope you won't ignore my future posts now) but I always carry a leatherman. Do you really think the BA3 will need to be thinned at the edge? If so, the Dozier is the way to go. I don't really want to deal with that. Also, I know you have a couple of Doziers. Have you had any problems with them chipping by using them for fire prep or whittling. The reason I ask is I used to own a D2 kabar, and it chipped easily. I'm assuming however that Dozier's D2 is far superior than Kabar's though.

Anyways, thanks for the info guys.

Nick
 
Hi Nick. Hoodoo, who has both a Satin JAck and a BA3 has proclaimed the convex ground PGK to be his ultimate outdoors knife. Normally when someone says something like that, you take it with a large grain of saline crystal, but Hoodoo's word is as good as gold, they don't come any better than him.

I have a Satin Jack (2 actually) as well as a BA3 (2 of those too :) ), I think the BA3 is long enough and is a perfect size for me, but it needs to be reground for sure! From the factory the edges are thick. It needs to be ground from spine to edge and convexed, this drasticly improves performance.

Another knife I would look at strongly is the TTKK by Trace Rinaldi www.thrblades.com

All of the choices you listed are excellent ones. One point though, if you don't have the Busse hatchet, let me suggest you look at the Gransfors Bruk line of axes and hatchets. The little Mini-hatchet is a great performer, and the small axes will readily outchop the busse. I ahve handeled the Paul's, and while it is a fine hunting tool and pruner (which was its intended design) for woodcraft, the GB axe line is on whole other level, much higher performance and lower prices. You could have a complete set for less than the Busse hatchet, and I am a big fan of Busse's work.
 
I recently tested a convex ground D2 prototype blade that Bob made. I subjected it to a number of outdoor cutting tests, including batoning the blade into dry cherry knots. There was no chipping, and barely any dulling for that matter. The only way I was able to chip the blade was to actually whack the cutting edge directly into a piece of cow bone. It's one tough knife. I doubt you'll run into any wood that can chip convex ground Dozier D2.

If you want to go with one of Bob's standard hollow grinds, I'd make a call into Linda. She is very knowledgeable of the product line. As some models are more thickly ground than others, she should be able to provide invaluable insight into making sure you get the right knife for the job. Linda knows her stuff.

Oh yah. Definitely make a telephone call to get questions asked. The Doziers are still learning the whole online world, so email isn’t the very best method of communication for them at this time. Posting on Bob Dozier’s web board may also provide a few good answers from people who have multiple Dozier knives.

My hollow ground K-4 has chipped before, but nothing major. The chips came after sawing through the spines of large walleye, in order to get the heads off. 30 seconds on a SharpMaker cured those tiny chips. That’s pretty good considering that my K-4 has a thinner edge than many other Doziers.

As far as the Badger Attack goes…….. That’s up to you. I’ve heard of people who ordered them before, and specifically asked for thinner than normal edges. The edges didn’t come too thin. You may have better luck. But if you’re willing to spend the bucks, I’d personally go with a full custom. You’ll get exactly what you want, and receive better fit and finish also. I also prefer the Dozier Wilderness Style sheath to the Busse sheath, but that’s a matter of personal preference.

And no worries. My Leatherman PST still gets a whole lot of use, as does my new Juice. :)
 
Eric: I actually already have the busse hatchet. I bought it because of its size, and its not so heavy duty chopping capabilities. I try to leave the wilderness the way it was before I get there so I won't be chopping anything heavy duty unless I'm desperate. Anyways, I think it chops pretty good for its size, and because you can choke up on the handle it can be used for numerous other tasks. As for the Rinaldi, it is a great blade, but I'd like to stick with Dozier. I've heard so much about his work I'm just too stuck on his knives.


Buzzbait: I was told by Mr. Dozier that he would get back to me in a few days. If I don't hear from him I'll give the shop a call. However, my plans for a dozier is a smaller version of the Wilderness Knife. I really like it but believe it is too big and hefty. I was thinking a 4.5' blade and 9.5 OAL (similar to the PGK). As for stock thickness I thought 5/32" would be good, but I'm not sure. Any suggestions would be great. Also, what are the advantages of convex and hollow grinds vs. their disadvantages?

Oh, I guess if I can afford the Dozier I could pick up a SAK sometime. Thanks for the info guys.

Nick
 
I generally prefer convex grinds for outdoor work. They tend to whittle much better than hollow grinds, and provide more strength and control over the cuts. If it's wood you'll be cutting, convex is a great way to go. Convex grinds are also good for cutting meat and other natural materials.

Convex grinds are also easier to sharpen in the field than hollow grinds, IMHO. No SharpMaker required to hold that perfect angle. For more convex grind info, try this link. Convex Grinds

I do love hollow grinds, but prefer them for more urban utility work. A hollow grind will sometimes allow a blade to pass through a certain material with less resistance, just because the blade is generally thinner. Hollow ground knives are also lighter in weight than convex ground knives, as there is less steel in the hollowed out blade.

5/32" sounds great for an outdoor knife. For this type of knife, I wouldn't want to go any thicker. At this size, it won't be some sort of big chopper or anything. It just has to slice and whittle a bit. Anywhere between 1/8" and 5/32" should do fine. If you plan on cleaning many fish, I might lean towards the 1/8".

As far as the handle length goes, that's mostly a matter of your hand size. I love the fit of both of my Doziers, and I have a medium sized hand. A very large hand might require a bigger handle than I normally use. Just make sure that you properly communicate your hand size. Nothing sucks more than getting a knife with a handle that doesn't fit your hand. It's dangerous too.

4 1/2" sounds good for an outoor knife. It's that nice middle-of-the-road length. Very versatile.

It is worth chatting with Hoodoo about his convex ground PKG. Hoodoo knows his knives well. If he loves his PGK as much as he says, it could be perfect for your needs. It's VERY close to your specs.
 
Oh yah. Here's a pic of my convex ground General Utility, for reference/drool purposes. :D

dozierk1-1.jpg
 
Buzzbait: You are the man!! I'm definitely going to consider the convex ground if Mr. Dozier will do it. It sounds like the way to go based on what you said and the link you provided. I'll have to check out Hodoo's PGK. By the way, very nice knife. I'm sure you will enjoy it, and it adds to the mass quantity of pictures I've seen of Dozier's quality work. Thanks again. Your help has been invaluable.

Nick
 
In my opinion(and many others here on Bladeforums), you can't go wrong with anything Bob Dozier makes. I just called and ordered a Pro Guide knife yesterday, and I should have it in my hot little hands tomorrow. Mine has killer ironwood slabs for handles, and a pretty thin edge. It will be used for everything but hard chopping. For chopping, I have a nice axe from Sears.
 
Wow, Dan, you done good. I thought Bob and I got along pretty well, but I haven't had him make me one overnight yet. :D :cool:

BTW, I have something similar in the pipeline.
 
This Pro Guide knife that I am buying is one that was on Bob's table at the Tulsa show last weekend. I must have picked the damned knife up 6 times, looking it over for anything to make me not want to buy it. I ended up leaving the show without it, because I bought a new pistol. I called Linda up Monday and told her that I just had to have it. I actually had dreams about this knife. When you see the pics of the knife, you will understand why I had dreams about it. :)
 
Originally posted by Danbo
When you see the pics of the knife, you will understand why I had dreams about it. :)

As you will mine. ;)
 
Actually, Danbo, it occurs to me that I've been in that exact situation before but with this one I found at the Guild Show:

(Its big brother will be the forthcoming PGK with ironwood scales and a convex grind. This one, however, is a flat ground prototype.)
 

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You guys are making me impatient. I heard from Mrs. Dozier today and she said it will be a few more days before Mr. Dozier gets back to me. If I don't hear from him by the end of the week I'll call the shop on Monday. I want to get an order in as soon as possible because the wait will probably kill me. I hope you guys enjoy your Doziers.

Nick
 
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