Another BM 940 D2 or S30V thread

twid

twid

Joined
Apr 7, 2009
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I know there was already a thread on this not too long ago (I read all of it) but my scenario is different so I figured I'll make another one.
I'm getting a 940 for my birthday next week and deciding which steel to get. I really want to get the KW limited D2 since I don't have any blades in that steel. I have several knives in s30v and all of them have chipped within 1" of the tip. I know I can be more careful with what I'm doing but I am fast paced at work and a lot of times I use my knife to scrape, dig around stuff or cut material not knowing what is on the other side. Insulation over metal duct or plastic banding around a bundle of metal studs for example. Which one would be less chip resistant in my use? My cutting tasks are usually harder ones and I'de prefer a longer working edge than a shaving one but both would be nice. I also live about 15 minutes from the gulf and a lot of my jobs are buildings right on the beach. So weather I'm at home or work the environment is either sweaty, humid, salty, or a combination. Since it's going to be a gift I definately want it to last forever and I will take care of it maintenance wise. Which one do you guys recommend for me?

Say D2:)
 
That has more to do with the thickness of the blades than the steel.

S30V is very tough steel.

Might want to look at knives with thicker tips if you are doing that kind of work.
 
while i agree with ankerson, i have some stuff to add

the 940 actually does have a fairly strong tip, do to the weird blade design

i love s30v, but benchmade knows how to do d2. if i were you, i would really be thinking wether you wanted higher rust resistence or not. if you do, i say s30v
 
Ankerson said:
That has more to do with the thickness of the blades than the steel.

S30V is very tough steel.

Might want to look at knives with thicker tips if you are doing that kind of work.
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I think this is the right answer. If you've broken the tip off that many other knives, neither 940 is going to stand up, as the blade is not stout. It has a strong tip in the sense that the angle between edge and spine is wide, but the steel's thickness is not great, and it's the latter that matters most if you're breaking them off an inch inward.
 
Just from my own knowledge and experience of s30v it keeps a working, toothy edge forever. After reading your post im inclined to suggest the s30v model.
 
Sorry guys I wasn't clear. The tips aren't broken, it's the cutting edge toward the tip were I'm getting chips.
 
twid said:
Sorry guys I wasn't clear. The tips aren't broken, it's the cutting edge toward the tip were I'm getting chips.
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I know what you ment. :)

You still need to look at thicker tipped knives because the will be more steel supporting the edge.
 
I think the S30V is better all around then D2.... It is more stainless, won't patina or any of that stuff. I have had benchmade D2 chip out on me a lot if taken below 18 degrees per side. I have never had S30V chip out, but I do mirror polish all my edges. S30V just usually rolls or bends more then anything. I can swipe the edge of a rolled S30V edge on the back of another knife (rounded back of sebenza :D) and it will align the edge right back up and be sharp as it was before. You can't do that to chipped edges. But this is my experience and I am sure someone else has had the exact opposite experience as me ;)
 
Ankerson said:
I know what you ment. :)

You still need to look at thicker tipped knives because the will be more steel supporting the edge.
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I hear ya :thumbup:

RedDevil, I already have a 301 :D

Thanks for the responses everyone.
 
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