Another burr question

C

chuckasher55

Joined
Dec 4, 2005
Messages
16
When I re-profile a blade I often have to use quite a bit of pressure and this creates a burr that is pretty heavy and strong. How should I remove such a burr? Traditional methods do not seem to work. Suggestions?
 
It can be difficult and can feel like you are forever flipping it from one side to the other. Like Jason said it’s all about the pressure you apply.

I’ve also found a strop useful in getting rid of the final remnants of a burr.

*waits for wow’s retort*
 
Thanks so far for your advice. I sharpen on a 1x30 belt sander. The first belt, especially during re-profiling, is 120 grit. I usually deburr with an 8 inch paper wheel, although I have tried everything that I can think of or have been told would work as a de-burring tool as well, with less than satisfactory results.
 
chuckasher55 said:
When I re-profile a blade I often have to use quite a bit of pressure and this creates a burr that is pretty heavy and strong. How should I remove such a burr? Traditional methods do not seem to work. Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Lighter pressure is always the key to minimizing the size of a burr in the first place. Also, in removing it after it's there.

Also, if the abrasive in use isn't well-suited to the wear resistance of the steel (it's hard carbide content, in other words), heavier burrs will often result. This is because the abrasive has trouble cutting the steel. The effect is compounded by the perceived need to lean into it and increase pressure against the edge, in trying to make the abrasive work faster. This will be an issue if the abrasive is very worn or glazed as well. So, if the belt being used is not suited to the steel type, and/or if it's heavily worn or clogged with swarf, it would be a good idea to change it out for a better and/or fresher belt.
 
If the burr is large it makes no difference. I use a coarse stone with edge leading strokes and it only takes a few strokes. Then I move to a finer stone. DM
 
chuckasher55 said:
Thanks so far for your advice. I sharpen on a 1x30 belt sander. The first belt, especially during re-profiling, is 120 grit. I usually deburr with an 8 inch paper wheel, although I have tried everything that I can think of or have been told would work as a de-burring tool as well, with less than satisfactory results.
Click to expand...

Machine sharpening is a bit different but the same rules still apply. Lighter pressure and in your case fresh belts of quality abrasive are a BIG step in decreasing burr size.

Second, you would benifit from a deburring stage in your sharpening. I go Belt, fine scotch brite wheel, surgisharp leather wheel when i machine sharpen and burrs are never a problem.
 
A bit of info to show my ignorance. I refer to a burr and wire edge interchangeably. Maybe this is wrong. If so, would someone set me straight. Most of the "burrs" that I mention are invisible to the naked eye, but can be felt as a sharp edge on the side of the blade that moves from side to side with even the lightest pressure. The ones that I have success with quickly fragment and fall off. The once that drive me crazy will hang on almost indefinitely and with keep the knife dull.

Jason B. said:
Machine sharpening is a bit different but the same rules still apply. Lighter pressure and in your case fresh belts of quality abrasive are a BIG step in decreasing burr size.

Second, you would benifit from a deburring stage in your sharpening. I go Belt, fine scotch brite wheel, surgisharp leather wheel when i machine sharpen and burrs are never a problem.
Click to expand...

A deburring stage is an excellent idea. My problem is that I have tried variations of all these steps. I have tried belts, including progressing through grits (up to 3000 grit), scotch brite belts, and leather belts. What usually happens is that by the time the burr is gone I have dulled the edge and have to start all over again. However, I have not tried them in the order listed above.

When sharpening, one of two different things occur:
1) I apex the blade, remove the burr with a paper wheel (when everything is working right), and the knife will slice paper well and shave hair. This happens about 70-75% of the time.
or
2) I apex the blade, attempt to remove the burr with a paper wheel, gritted belts, scotch brite belts, leather belts (both loaded with fine grit or plain leather), whetstones, Sharpmaker, etc., etc., etc. As I said above, by the time the burr is gone so is the edge.

I'm obviously doing something very wrong and would pay someone to teach me how to fix this problem. I have ruined quite a few very good knives, at least they were all mine, and want to stop ruining them so that I can start replacing them without ending up screwing them up also.
 
When machine sharpening I normally drop speed way down and reverse the motor, remove the burr with a very light, leading pass on the belt. Because the belt has a bit of give I don't increase the angle. Then I normally finish with a microbevel on a fine stone. In my hands I get a much better result than doing the job 100% with belts.

Lacking this option, I'd recommend removing the burr - after pushing it all to one side - on a stone. Just double your working angle and make a light leading pass or three on a medium grit stone till its gone. Finish with leather belt.

Another option that I've found to work reasonably well with all-trailing pass sharpening is to run the edge across piece of wood after every pass on the abrasive. This won't eliminate it 100% but can do a pretty good job of minimizing it as you work.
 
I use sharpmaker to remove burr,very light strokes and then palm stropping,results are excellent.If i dont have sharpmaker handy,then just raise angle on stone for a couple degrees and do light alternate strokes.
 
First and biggest problem... You are trying to make a fine polished edge with a machine process. Not saying it can'tbe done but you are IMO putting a LOT of effort in for mediocre results. My sharpening belt is the 120 grit Norton Blaze I then follow that with a hard density fine Scotch-Brite wheel on a bench grinder. This softens the scratch pattern and also weakens the burr which allows the polishing stage to remove any remaining burr with ease. This edge is also extremely sharp and will outperform edges of higher refinement.
 
Last edited:
Here's my question.

I know a lot of folks like to increase their angle 4 or 5 degrees per side, and do a few passes to shear off the burr that way.

Doesn't a microbevel also create another "micro burr" ?
 
brando555 said:
Here's my question.

I know a lot of folks like to increase their angle 4 or 5 degrees per side, and do a few passes to shear off the burr that way.

Doesn't a microbevel also create another "micro burr" ?
Click to expand...

In a hand sharpening process, yes but it does reduce it in size dramatically.
 
brando555 said:
Here's my question.

I know a lot of folks like to increase their angle 4 or 5 degrees per side, and do a few passes to shear off the burr that way.

Doesn't a microbevel also create another "micro burr" ?
Click to expand...

If you do it just so, you remove most of the burr without hitting the apex.
The key to the microbevel is to use a much finer stone. If limited to a few passes on a higher angle, you're just thinning the edge and might not fully cross the apex. If you do - shooting for more refinement, any burr will be very small or non-existant. If I use a micro to totally overgrind the apex, I'll normally use a finer stone as a bridge to further reduce the size of any potential burrs. I also will use a few passes on a hard strop to be sure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top