Another Bushknife Design

Rick Marchand

Donkey on the Edge
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Forged from a Nicholson (flat bastard file) This one is still in progress... I will call it the "Bush Bastard".

Rick



Just after forging.....
WSFKnife.jpg


Setting the bevels and getting ready for heat treat...
WSFkniferoughgrindingbevel.jpg
 
I really like that.

Sort of a cross between a nessie and a tanto blade. Very cool:thumbup::thumbup:

Brett
 
Unique to say the least. I'm looking forward to the finished product. What kind of handle do you have in mind? My guess is that, that "point" on the sweet spot is going to bite deep but wedge a bit in wood, but it will also be easy to rock out. I sure wouldn't want to take a hit from that upside the head! Mac

ETA: OUCH! That hurts just thining about it.
 
nice looking job so far.

interesting design...can't wait to see how it looks (and performs) in the end.
 
I am lovin that! MAkes me want to rty that design sometime. Great way to keep weight up front for chopping. Mind if I take insparation from your work one day?
 
Go for it, blgoode!!

I just drew it up one day... but I guess the Rambo #4 knife must have been in the back of my mind somewhere, cause if the edge was on the other side it would be #4's little brother!

That and it kinda has a "sawed-off" Khukri kinda look to it.

Thanks for the compliments, guys.
Rick
 
Looks cool. I can't really tell from the sketch but do you intend for it to look like the Puma hunter? Cuz I think thats a sweet knife.
 
Not trying to start trouble, but exactly what are the reasons for that edge and point design? :confused:
 
orrey45...
I just looked up that Puma Hunter... nice blade... mine will a little further off from that.


Dr. Mudd...
I wanted a forward heavy design for taking saplings and light chopping. The secondary point (no idea what you call it) is great for pull cuts and really bites in on the push cuts. The tanto-like tip is good for gouging out bowls and spoons, too. This is definately a shelter making "bastard"... perhaps not the best hunter/skinner... lol.

Rick
 
Interesting.

For an inverted version, check out Tai Goo's "Bush Bastid":
http://www.taigooknives.com/Gallery - Bush Knives - Current/index-gallery.html

You know, it strikes me that your point might be good for an unusual, desert-specific application: for being driven under an agave to sever it from its roots. The Indians and paleo-Indians around here used agaves as a major food source, and I have read that they had a tool sort of like a giant, hardwood chisel that they'd use to harvest the things. (They'd then roast them for days in a stone-lined pit.) Sort of like the start of the process of making Tequila.

I, too, am interested in hearing what kind of handle you have in mind.

One question: I've heard people say that it's important to grind out the ridges on a file early on in the knifemaking process, lest one weaken the blade. Any truth to this?

One more question: how do you plan to do the heat treatment / tempering?

The knife certainly looks cool. Thanks for sharing!
 
Years ago, I got a neighbor friend who worked at a large plant to get me their used files for some homebrew wood chisels. They even used a plane surface grinder to remove the grooves - great! I then ground the rough skew angle with a die grinder mounted stone, wrapped it in a cloth, held it in a vise, and whacked it on the grind, shattering it like glass - cool, I thought. I shaped the edge and sharpened it on a 1"x42" belt grinder, down to 320 grit SiC - nice edge - finished it on stones to shaving sharpness - yippee, I thought. I didn't know about the micro-cracks I had produced - and how, even with the minimal shock of chiseling wood (I made a few mortise chisels for myself and my neighbor.), they might connect - and I'd lose a hunk of the edge - which I did - stuck in a mortise - fun to extract. The neighbor came back with one with a big piece missing. We both agreed - we weren't metallurgists. Ford was President... I found some clearance priced Japaneese laminated mortisers at a local shop.

You have to anneal the snot out of file blanks - then shape them and remove those grooves - then reharden the blank before finishing it... but you have a forge, so you know and do this. My hat's off to you - great job - neat design. Traditional wood handle, or dymondwood/micarta? That short tang may be a problem. I am anxious to see the results.

Stainz
 
I normally make full tang knives but this one is a colaboration knife I'm making with two other makers. One gentleman is making the handle and the other is making the sheath.... we will hold a lottery... the winner gets the knife and a select charity gets the money...

I will be making another one with a full tang for my own line-up.

After forging, I heat it up and let it anneal in the forge overnight.

I had originally intended to heat treat with a clay coating to get a nice Hamon... but I think I'll full harden and temper back the spine.

Rick
 
...
Dr. Mudd...
I wanted a forward heavy design for taking saplings and light chopping. The secondary point (no idea what you call it) is great for pull cuts and really bites in on the push cuts. The tanto-like tip is good for gouging out bowls and spoons, too. This is definately a shelter making "bastard"... perhaps not the best hunter/skinner... lol.
Rick

Mag, the very best forward heavy design I ever owned was a WW2 vintage short bolo machete that I'm sure was U.S. military issue, though I don't know which troops used it or where. I'd guess it was used in the Pacific Theater, but that's just my guess. Anyway, I was a dumb teenager and I traded it off for a two-man rubber life raft. Back then (1966?) we were awash in great military surplus, but I have missed that damn short bolo machete ever since I let it go! :rolleyes:
 
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