Another heat treat question and one on elk antler

J

J.D.

Joined
Feb 12, 2006
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After talking to a knifemaker today, at a flea market, I am wondering about my process of heat treating. I use 1095 and O-1 steels, and an Even Heat oven. I quench the whole blade then temper the 1095 at 450 degrees for 2 hours, and the O-1 at 375 degrees for 2 hours. The guy I talked to said that the spine on any blade should not be hardened, only the edge, he does'nt bring the spine to critical temp for the quench. So is it nessasary to have the spine softer than the rest of the blade for hunting knives and knives that would be used for camp chores? I have had no problems with any knives breaking, but I sure don't want any! Most of my blades are 4 inches of cutting edge and less. Do I need to change the way I do things?
Is there a way to dry elk antler, other than letting it dry naturaly? How long does it take antler to dry before it can be used for handles.
Any help will be appreciated, Thanks
 
For hunting knives that are only 4" long blades I wouldnt worry about having a soft spine but there is an advantage on the camp knives. They are more flexable and feel better when rough chopping chores. I like to quench just the edges on most everything. Try it and see for yourself. Ive never broken one either way when used as the knife is intended. I think you are good on your temperatures. I also use an Evenheat oven, love it.
The antler can be dried quicker in a wooden box and a light bulb. I leave mine in my metal shed all summer. It must be about 135 degrees in there!
 
Thank you Bruce Bump for your input, I have looked at a couple of tutorials on edge quenching and will give it a try. About how long should the antler stay in the box with a light bulb? Thanks again
 
J.D. - You will be better served to use your oven and steel to its full potential by continuing to HT your blades as you are doing them now. After the blade is tempered ,draw the temper softer on the spine with a torch.Watch the temper colors walk down the blade and quench in water to stop when about half way down the blade side. This is called differential tempering and many makers find it superior to edge quenching as it does not create a differential line in the steel (the "edge quench" hamon).If the entire steel is converted to martensite and tempered to different softnesses on the spine and edge,it will all react under stress as the same material.In an edge quench the steel is different structures -some martensite,some pearlite,some troosite,some retained austenite.You don't have any real control over the mix and where it changes from one to the other.I tend to think that this can create too many variables. If you want to get the effects of an edge quench with more control (and a better hamon) try clay coating the spine and doing an interrupted quench.
Stacy
 
Thanks bladsmth, I like that method, I will try that, can a propane torch be used for this?
 
bladsmth said:
J.D. - You will be better served to use your oven and steel to its full potential by continuing to HT your blades as you are doing them now. After the blade is tempered ,draw the temper softer on the spine with a torch.Watch the temper colors walk down the blade and quench in water to stop when about half way down the blade side. This is called differential tempering and many makers find it superior to edge quenching as it does not create a differential line in the steel (the "edge quench" hamon).
Stacy
Click to expand...

Stacy.. sure it will leave a temper line but not nearly as prominent
a true so called hamon is from clay type quenching not tempering
I know it's spliting hairs for the newbys but it's still info for all to work on.

I water tube the edge so the heat can't run down to far and over temper the edge when drawing the spine back this way.
 
J.D. said:
Is there a way to dry elk antler, other than letting it dry naturaly? How long does it take antler to dry before it can be used for handles.
Click to expand...

The best I can tell you is that I have not seen nor heard of a way to dry antler other than naturally. Antler can be boiled and scrubbed to help remove the fats and other gunk off it to open the pores and help it dry quicker, but other than nailing it up to the side of the barn and letting it dry in the wind, there is no other way that I know of that won't effect the end result of the product, i.e. checking, discoloration, etc.
 
if using it as a stick tang I'll pre drill the
inside and put it on top of my shop oil furnace, it's good and warm but not to hot,the air moves real good there. 5-6 months and it slows the movement to a minimum , if slabs, cut it over size and set it in the same place for the same time. I do have a box with a light for the summer time..I got that idea years ago,, welders did that to keep welding rods dry year round..
 
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