Another in a back pocket sheath, and selling question

[MSCantrell]

Hey fellas,
With the help of my lovely better half, just finished up another tonight- I did the knife, she did the sheath.
My first knife out of O1 (so far I've been a 1095 man).

Overall length six inches and a sixteenth; blade length three inches on the nose.

I think the proper terminology for the grind is full convex saber ground. That is, the primary bevel (convex) goes straight to the cutting edge, no edge bevel. But it doesn't, as you can see, extend to the spine. Open to corrections on that one.

Edit: scratch that. Looks like what I was after is zero-ground convex saber. Thanks, Bob!

Walnut scales and a single brass pin over full tang construction.

The sheath is inspired by the A G Russell Woodswalker.

So that's the knife. Now, let me ask about selling this. I know to sell in Knifemakers> For Sale: Fixed Blades I need the knifemaker membership. But what about For Sale: Knives and Tools or For Sale: Custom Knives?
Not that I want to dodge the rules, I just don't have a penny of knife money till this sells (catch-22 ain't it?).
I read the FAQ and didn't see this topic addressed, but I'll bet someone here knows.

Thanks!
Mike
mscantrell at gmail.com

 

[Lucky Bob]

To my knowledge, "full" means that the bevel goes from spine to edge (but doesn't necessarily form the cutting edge), whereas "zero edge" means that the bevel forms the cutting edge.

If that's true, then it'd be zero-ground convex saber-grind.

That's also a very nice knife... similar to the pocket-(straight-)knife I'm planning to build.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The knife is a nice little pocket piece.
There are some basic problems to try to improve the next one.
The single pin is problematic. You really need two or more pins,especially on a user like this.
Also,try using a tighter grained walnut.You will find the type you used is a bit rough on the hand,and can splinter with rough use.
On the sheath,you should make it with a gusset shaped like the knife. Make a leather cut out to fit around the blade (maybe even two or three), about 1/4-3/8" wide. Cement it on the sheath cover.Build it up with other layers if needed.Cement on the other side.Stitch the sheath up. This way the knife won't cut your a** up when you sit on it or it gets struck in a fall.As it is right now it will rip the stitches and slice right into you.(also,this looks like the wrong type of leather)
Stacy

 

[MSCantrell]

Thanks Lucky Bob, I'm editing my description to reflect your advice.

Stacy, thanks for the tips! Tell me this- will a tung oil finish keep the walnut intact? If no, what about a CA/cyanoacrylate/superglue finish?
Looks like we'll re-work the sheath. It feels secure, but I suppose the problems we're talking about would develop over time no matter what it feels like now.
Look for an update sometime soon!

Thanks very much,
Mike
mscantrell at gmail.com